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Update: it was something simple as I suspected. When I put the motor back in I never finished tightening the power wire from the alternator. The nut that holds it on was just about to fall off LOL
Lol - you can't do that much work without missing something.
true, true. i'm sure it was a "i'm gonna leave this for the night and come back tomorrow" types of things, then got busy on the top side of the engine, etc.
i'm just glad i didn't have to change the alternator.
update:
car started doing this again. I installed a new battery, just in case.
First symptom: I was driving home from work and the battery/oil lights started to flicker and the car was running rough. I do not remember the AFRs at that time. On the offramp, the car died on me. I restarted it and it drove fine the rest of the way home and to my friend's shop the next day. Battery and alternator check out find according to a volt and amperage meters. I was unable to check under the same load as on the freeway (RPM, lights, defroster, etc).
Today, I hook up EvoScan and I see this:
I test drove the car up and down the fwy with lights/defroster/radio on and noticed no problems. No flickering batt light, no power loss, and AFRs were all fine. I can not, for the life of me, get the ISCV to drop below 8. Yesterday it was at 0. This car is seriously pissing me off.
Those low fuel trims. +3.8% on the long, and +12% on the short term. Boost leak test, then check injectors, then maybe toss a new walbro 255 in it because they're cheap, then possibly revisit the tune/tuner...
Those low fuel trims. +3.8% on the long, and +12% on the short term. Boost leak test, then check injectors, then maybe toss a new walbro 255 in it because they're cheap, then possibly revisit the tune/tuner...
That's my checklist, so far. This was all of a sudden, so doubting it's the tune.
The battery light coming on during my trip home is what throws me off the most. I'm REALLY hoping it's not the alternator.