Want to hear some opinions on the best stock replacement turbo for an evo 9 and if you have dyno sheets or a mod list

 

Most fun I've had is the FP HTA 71. I have the smaller VIII comp cover and the 10.2 hot side.
I believe my track tune is around 355whp on 91(26psi peak) and around 380 on e85 (29psi peak), though we're not done tuning. I'd have to check the logs to confirm, but the numbers are right around there. I'm shooting for 400whp. All with very limited mods and a VERY mild 264 cam.
Both tunes are super safe in order to hold up to 20min track sessions. I'm not sure what the limit would be, if pushed, but I do see some impressive numbers on this site.
128k long block
Greddy 264
Injen LICP
AMS 3" FMIC
BR 3" TBE c/ test pipe.
3port boost solenoid
Cone filter
Invidia O2 housing.
All other power-related items are stock.

 

^Kaj I'm looking at the fp chra 71 but I guess it only comes with the 84mm Anti Surge inlet. Do you see any benefits in the Anti Surge or is it a waste on $. We are both in Ca so same crappy 91 oct.

I'm honestly looking for a goal of your same numbers..nothing bigger

who's doing your tuning btw?

 

I'm looking at the 71HTA too but the 84mm housing is a deal breaker for me. I wouldn't boost over 22psi because stock bottom end.

 

I got the last OEM housing, from what I could tell. I went to buy another, but they all had the AP cover and cost $200 more.
Living in CA (I still run the OEM intake "arm") that was a deal breaker for me. People in my town still get hoods popped by local PD, so...
I have no surging issues, so I don't feel the AP cover is needed for a 2.0. I would use it on a 2.3+, though.
My tuner is Jay @ Boosted Tuning.

 

You can go much higher than 22psi, on a 71, with a stock bottom end.

 

I think you are being way too conservative, like the same as everyone when they first looked at even modifying the 8/9s. The limits are not even close to being touched with OEM turbo until you start playing with race gas or e85.

 

Not only is 22psi very low boost. The 84mm compresses more cover has no effect on how much boost you run.

 

I use my evo on track days/road racing. I could run 30psi boost but then fatigue would show its teeth from things as simple as a hose to a rod bolt. It is a matter of purpose given to the car. Mind you I'm running a "small" HKS GT II 7460R because a broad power band is much more useful to me.

You are right about the 84mm cover. It has nothing to do with how much boost one would run. It is just that for goals under 550hp I don't see the need of some stuff. I see the 71 HTA as a simple upgrade to make more power with lower boost. With stock-like housings I could use the parts I already have, keep things simple and save money for other needed mods.

If I were to change intake, downpipe and other bits then I would go T3 GTX or BW EFR route - but this is out of this topic.

 

I also do track days and time attack. My turbos do just fine at 25-27psi (though they taper, of course). But I see nothing wrong with being extra safe.

 

I love my 71hta. 450whp/400wtq and a big fat power band. Shoots to 30psi and falls to 27.5psi by 7500rpm. I also track my car. Stock block, head studs, and I track the hell out of it. Thank God for my rock solid tune

 

If you have an aftermarket metal intake pipe already (which you should) all you need is a coupler and hose clamp. Which will run you a grand total of $30...

 

So you’re saying my OEM rubber one doesn’t suffice? Nor my OEM UICP?

My car always seems down on power compared to most. At 29psi on e85 I’m still trying to hit 400whp. Maybe it’s my other mods, or lack thereof. LOL. I definitely don’t run 27+ at redline, though. That could be why too, I suppose. I don’t know that I will ever do track days on 85, though. I usually stick with my pump gas tune (I drive to the track).
We’re still tuning, so we’ll see how it goes. It usually takes a month to get my tune finished LOL.

 

Living in Cali is a little different...lol.

 

haha. yeah. it kinda sucks. my idea is to get a metal one and wrap it with an OEM rubber one. maybe it would work LOL.
or i guess i could go with AEM since it has a CARB number. i was going to do an UICP, but i can't seem to make one looke OEM enough. the couplers throw it all off.