heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Sucks you're having such a hard time keeping those from leaking. I replaced all my coolant lines last season as I started to spot a couple green spots of coolant so figured the hoses were just becoming brittle. Luckily in my case new hoses and new pinch clamps and all was well in my case.

I'd think with a worm drive clamp and fresh hoses they would seal up for sure. Any chance you have a leaking HG and that's causing your leak issues as its pressurizing the cooling system moreso than the what is it 12-15# from the cap?

How bad is the leak and when are you noticing it?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I've checked the system pressure with a gauge. It's fine, and it doesn't elevate with engine revving. I've dealt with what you're talking about, and even the most minor HG leak will substantially spike cooling system pressure. There is also zero coolant in the oil, and no hydrocarbons in the coolant.


They seem to seal ok for a few thousand miles. I think there is just too much heat with how I drive the car. The hoses get brittle really fast.

slipperychicken

iTrader: (27)

I've always seen seepage there on more than one car, including mine. Never really bothered me since it didn't leak TOO much. Sometimes the seepage would calcify and would seal it that way lol.

Aside from fittings, some constant torque worm drive clamps could probably alleviate the issue due to the frequent heat expansion/ contraction of the aluminum line. That's all the factory pinch clamps are anyway but weaker.

Problem is I don't know if they make them that small; Murray and breeze make some good CT clamps. I may address it when I get my car up and running again.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

The worm drives I have on it or the double banded kind, not constant torque. I hate leaks, they bug the **** out of me. And they make a mess. So just letting them calcify isn't an option. Also, a leak means the cooling system isn't properly pressurized, which can result in localized boiling, which is no bueno.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

I think there must be something else going on here especially if you've even tried using something like silicon hoses as there is no way those went brittle especially given such short time frame.

I know you're not a newb but I mean if heat were such an issue with these hoses it would be a known issue as you're not the only one that tracks his car. Unfortunately I don't have any other good feedback so Im just trying to think out of the box here as it doesn't add up. But I feel your pain as leaks **** me off and thats why I went through and replaced all of my hoses and clamps since I saw signs of coolant seeping out. Now if only i could get to the bottom on my oil leak, lol

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

The silicone hose didn't get brittle, it actually never sealed. I think because it was SAE 3/8, and fit a touch loose compared to the OEM 8 or 10mm hose. Even though a google search shows the same hose (green exterior, red interior) from NAPA that I tried sealing fine....lol.


I really think I'm just going to AN. It'll make the turbo easier to remove. Can just put plugs in the AN lines and not have to drain the cooling system. And it'll look better. And I'll be able to put heat sheath over it. I probably have all the fittings and hose form when why crankcase vents were all -6. Just need a few weld on fittings I think. ****ty part will be pulling the turbo. I might send it to FP for a check up while its off.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Well, AN should certainly solve your issue but just seems like an expensive route to take for something that should be simple. But hey if you have all/ most of the fitting the go for it. And oh cmon man pulling the turbo is a cinch! Get on it son!

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

It's annoying because I have worked on this thing enough in the last year, and thought I was all good for a while until I noticed the water leak, and the wheel came off...lol

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Quick bump. I decided to try new hard lines, hoses and OEM spring clamps since it was way cheaper and a lot less work than converting everything to AN fitting/line. Problem solved. No more leak at the turbo water lines.

Evo8cy

Actually you are wrong, on the return line when I installed my fp green back in '07 I only used one of the copper rings/washers, the one on the outer side and it did not leak, so when I installed the fp red in '09 I did the same thing on the inlet side water line, again no leaks, I did gave it a bit more of force when tighting it though.


There is definitely something wrong with the way you do things. Get a longer braided hose and push further on onto a new hard line then use 2 strong ( bolt type) metal fastening clips. No need for doing any AN welding.





Marios

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Responses in green.

Evo8cy

I am not wrong by even the smallest amount of wrong lol, I have tried it, and it did not leak. Mitsi also use those weak fastening clips, that does not make the use proper. And I have seen many turbos leaking water from the bolt area with both washers on. Also on the wheel streering pump. Do not quote on something you have not tried and tested. The reason it is not leaking without the inner washer, it is because the MHI housing does not have an inner grove to house a washer, both the water line and housing are straight surfaces, if one cleans them well, they seal no worries, but the washer on the side of the bolt is needed.




The reason for putting two clips, is one in one end and one on the other lol. If you decide to use two in a row then it is because the clips are narrow in an effort to enhance clamping force, especially on a vibrating part, one can use two clamps.







Marios

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Man this is a good battle you two have going on; glad I logged onto evom today

FWIW every banjo bolt I've ever installed required 2 crush washers, one on each side. Whether it was for the turbo oil feed, brake lines clutch lines whatever its always been one on each side as they seal on the seat not via the threads.

Anyway, glad you finally got this sorted out. I thought you had already replaced all the hard lines and clamps but guess not. I can see the older pinch clamps weakening up as I too started seeing signs of coolant around the same areas and I got it squared away with new lines and hose clamps, granted I only needed to replace the rubber hoses not the hard lines as well...

Evo8cy

Battle wtf? Lol, unless you are a soldier or been one you ain't got a clue what a battle is , the noun you used as a metaphor though made me laugh, cheers for that. Repeating myself on the housing side there is no need to use a washer, tried and tested, they are two evenly straight surfaces that mate perfectly without no issues whatsoever , they just need to be clean, and yes the oem bolt that I used did the job fine as the housing is threaded all the way in, but one can use both washers if you have them in hand and a shorter bolt if necessary in a certain instance.



Anyway, I'm glad the leak issue is sorted.










Marios

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Mine had a very small amount of corrosion, so I went ahead and just replaced them. Probably from the sub par clamps letting fluid get in there. My hard lines weren't that old, only about 2 years. My car was at the body shop for almost 8 week for them to get the damn thing right, that was the reason for the delay. And it still isn't right, I just took it so I wouldn't miss a track day I paid for. It still has to go back..