I'm considering purchasing this catch can. http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/stm_evo89_sealed_square_catch_can.htm
I am experiencing some excessive crankcase pressure. Yes, I've read about 500 pages on the subject, but I'm not getting a lot of feedback about this can. I currently run a Saikou Michi dual sealed can with 3/8 lines. My dip stick blows out, etc. Car is on e85. Makes around 500whp on mustang dyno. I don't want to vta because I have an Fp turbo and they don't like that. I'm looking for some real world feedback of owners of this can. I've talked to Stm about it. It sounds good, but is expensive. Thanks.

 

could you elaborate why the Fp stock frame turbos don't like the elimination of pressure? Thank you, I was going to suggest Tscomptuned's eliminating mod, but I guess that would not work for you

 

The STM can was designed for the FP turbo's. Its functional aspect is very similar to how my car is setup and should work perfect for you.

 

If you're having so much pressure that your oil dipstick is shooting out, then a sealed system isn't going to solve your problem. A sealed system doesnt release that gas, its only collecting oil blowby. So its doing nothing for you in the first place other than preventing oil from collecting in your pipes (this also doesnt hurt anything btw)

From FP's own site

So in other words, they DO LOVE the elimination of absurdly excessive crankcase pressure, like every other turbo ever invented.

This means you should run a VTA setup, or spend a grand on custom one-of-a-kind vacuum pumps within your system to relieve that pressure. No one does this because VTA is more effective in the first place, simpler, and significantly cheaper. Hence why most big turbo cars pushing 600 and beyond (not just evos) run vented setups.

 

The point of that catch can is to provide better-than-vta crank case ventilation. Under boost it actually uses the suction force in the intake pipe to "suck" crank case pressure out. Rather than venting directly to atmospheric pressure. If your crank case pressure issues is that bad I'd try to look for the cause of it, bu this is otherwise an acceptable band-aid solution.

 

-6AN is very small for 500whp.

Please explain to me how their 6AN valve and tiny 6AN fitting on the opposite side is going to outflow a custom dual or triple 8AN or 10AN vented setup? Putting big lines doesnt suddenly make the system flow better, there is still a restriction on the valve cover, and the source of that restriction is small 3/8 ID of the fittings they use.

Heck, its a great looking kit - im not saying it sucks, but they should have included a 8 or 10AN valve instead because its much more appropriate for 500whp.

-The cause of the excess crankcase pressure issue is him wanting to run 500whp in the first place. Those who claim not to have issues are simply lucky they havent had their dipstick shoot out of their hood yet, or had seals blow out.

 

Some good feedback here. I will not be running a vta can. Fp wants larger lines, not vta. They insist that crankcase pressure must be evacuated by connecting a sealed can back to the intake. By intake, I mean pre-turbo, not im. I have spoken with them on several occasions, and they could not have been more clear. No vta. I guess I am torn between this stm can, which by the way, has -10 lines on the back of the vc and -10 weld in bung for the intake pipe, or a buschur style setup that caps the pcv port on the im and basically uses the both ports in the vc to evacuate pressure, at all times. The buschur can comes vta, but can be routed back to the intake, if desired. Also, I'd like to keep this about cans, and not underlying causes. The cause is running race fuel, e85, and 500whp through a motor that's designed for 200. I've talked with so many local engine builders, tuners, etc. I'm burned out on that subject. It's just the nature of the beast. Thanks for the input. Keep it coming!

 

You should do like the other thread on this topic says and drill out your front valve cover line to 1/2 NPT and run a 5/8" line to your pre turbo intake. As mentioned in that thread, the valve cover is baffled well enough that there is no need for a catch can. Going from 3/8" to 5/8" is a 3x increase in cross sectional area.

 

So, did you look at the STM can, or are you just talking out your ***? It uses a 10AN fitting and a 6AN fitting off of the valve cover into a catch can, then a 10an line to the intake pipe, and a 6an line with check valve to the intake manifold. Which, in terms of flow, is the same as my setup which works perfectly for my FP turbo.

 

Letsgetthisdone- At least someone is paying attention. Are you running this to a single can, just like the stm? Also, I would never not run a catch can with e85. All that ethanol flavored water it catches should no doubt be removed from the motor. If I hammer the car for 100 miles, I get 1/4 full can. Its 90 percent water though.

 

I have the dual radium catch can set up with different fittings from what they supply, it's ok. They take up room, and the one on the passenger side rubs the timing belt cover. I have been thinking about asking STM if they'll sell me just the can with no line or fittings since I already have just about everything I would need to install it.

 

I just bought the STM Sealed Can setup.... costed me $565 USD shipped to Canada . I bought it for 2 reasons. I have a DBB Fp Red, so it was made for that turbo and also I was tired of messing around with these custom setups, looking for a more plug n play setup.

I am just waiting to get the bung welded to the intake.

Just a caution for the newbies. It doesn't come with instructions and you have to size all the lines. Any information You have to work with whatever the website shows or I guess call them.

 

^ That should actually work like a charm. Always easier to buy a complete kit than to start with nothing.



I understand that FP recommends routing the catch can into the intake to allow the turbo to assist in ventilating crank case pressure, but are there any other adverse effects if you decide to go VTA with your catch can setup using an FP turbo? Take a guess why i'm asking.

-pal215

 

VTA will never achieve maximum crank case ventilation. By attaching the line to the intake pipe, it gets you a lot closer. The intake pipe *usually* has about -2 to -4 psi of vacuum in it when at WOT, so it really helps draw the pressure out of the crank case. Going VTA just has the potential to not ventilate enough, that's the only drawback.

 

I'm actually torn between getting the STM sealed catch can, or sending a valve cover to Tom to do the the drivers side port for me. I have a DBB FP Red and I found out in the compressor housing of it before I even did any WOT pulls. Not a lot, but there was some in there. I have a 2.3L with no balance shafts. Recommendations?