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If an engine wasn't put together correctly and the crank was walking enough to hear/notice/etc the crank angle sensor would be toast?
**07/20/16 update:
After a visit to a local trans shop, I was told my knocking sounds like an alignment issue. That would cause vibration and movement to the input shaft, which would break the fork.
I was reminded by letsgetthisdone about my alignment dowels for the block/trans. I think I remember seeing only one, IF any. Duh. Checking this when I get home....
But I think I found the problem....
A year later LOL
**updated info:
The transmission shop said my pressure plate could cause chatter and it's HIGHLY unlikely the flywhee is bent/warped/etc. I don't know that they understood what I meant by knocking coming from the trans and was mistaking that as common chatter.
So, the clutch shop says that it sounds like an alignment issue. I told him our cars have no pilot bearing, so he figures there is something wrong that is not letting the transmissions align properly with the flywheel/clutch.
It's not rocket science.. I have the starter plate in.. all bolts tighten completely. all edges mesh with the block and tcase.
Could it be a bad crankshaft? Seeing how the dust cover won't fit between the flywheel and the block, something could be off there.
My next test would be to start the car and get under it to see if the flywheel has movement during idle and clutch in/out operation.
I'm grasping at straws because nobody can figure out what in heck is wrong...
Any engine builders that can think of a way the crank could be off? I've inspected all bearings, so it looks fine. I'm not eating any crank angle sensors. everything seems completely normal. No leaking from the rear main seal. No metal in the oil.
I'm about to pull the engine to tear down and put back together in hopes to do something right. I have an engine hoist on the way LOL.
I also have a different flywheel on the way (used, will resurface) and a new clutch. If I throw it back together and have the same problem, I'll be forced to set the car on fire.
It's a good possibility. It depends on which direction the crank walked. If it went toward the driver side, the trigger wheel moved away from the sensor. If the crank went towards the passenger side, it would take out the sensor and/or the trigger wheel.
This thread has the perfect picture for you to see why that is.
If going away from the sensor, there wouldn't be any real tells then, I'd imagine? I was checking the sensor and it's cool but my trans dust shield doesn't fit between the flywheel and block, so i thought maybe it went to the passenger side.
If I had someone step on and off the clutch, would I see it moving?
If the trans dust shield is hitting the flywheel you might be missing the trans engine spacer/starter plate. Or maybe i'm thinking about that backwards? Is there an easy way to inspect the thrust bearings to determine if the crank has walked?
If the trans dust shield is hitting the flywheel you might be missing the trans engine spacer/starter plate. Or maybe i'm thinking about that backwards? Is there an easy way to inspect the thrust bearings to determine if the crank has walked?
You're still having the issue with the dust shield not fitting?
Yup. Ever since assembly. I've checked all I can, short of pulling the motor. I've had the girdle dropped, checked the crank angle sensor, tried to move the crank back and forth, and even the timing belt to see if looks to be not riding in the right spot.
It's an OEM crank, pistons, and rods...but not my original ones. Surely they are all pretty much the same.
All bearings looked good, including thrust.
It's just weird.
My car is full of mysterious LOL
Kaj,
Did you buy an fp54 turbo or am I thinking of someone else? If it's crank walk it usually pretty noticeable. I just built my 9 motor with all new acl bearings (including thrust) Manley TT rods, wiseco HD pistons bored over .020. I had crank walk. I didn't realize it at first. Thought it was TOB or clutch related. Car started up fine and held an idle but as soon as I pressed the clutch in it made a funny grinding noise and idle would dip. After messing with it for a day and a half I found that with the clutch pressed in the crank was moving towards the passenger side. I pulled my pan and girdle and found one of my thrust washers/bearings was grinded down and destroyed. The noise I was hearing was my crank walking and physically grinding against my block and main cap. I've read and realized since that I should have disabled my clutch switch under the peddle for my first start up but to tell you the truth I'm not even sure if that would have prevented it.
Kaj,
Did you buy an fp54 turbo or am I thinking of someone else? If it's crank walk it usually pretty noticeable. I just built my 9 motor with all new acl bearings (including thrust) Manley TT rods, wiseco HD pistons bored over .020. I had crank walk. I didn't realize it at first. Thought it was TOB or clutch related. Car started up fine and held an idle but as soon as I pressed the clutch in it made a funny grinding noise and idle would dip. After messing with it for a day and a half I found that with the clutch pressed in the crank was moving towards the passenger side. I pulled my pan and girdle and found one of my thrust washers/bearings was grinded down and destroyed. The noise I was hearing was my crank walking and physically grinding against my block and main cap. I've read and realized since that I should have disabled my clutch switch under the peddle for my first start up but to tell you the truth I'm not even sure if that would have prevented it.
I thought I bought an FP54, turned out to be an HTZ Green LOL
Well, I've checked my bearings and they look okay. No metal in my oil. RPM doesn't dip or otherwise change when clutch is in.
Trans is off for its new owner and I'm taking the flywheel and clutch in to be inspected. I REALLY hope the flywheel is the problem.
Also, the clutch pads had strange wear. One of the pads had a whole corner missing. I've never seen that. Another showed some crumbling on the leading edge.
My car is haunted.
crank movement cuts through the sensor in both directions. doesnt matter if pull or push clutch is used. sometimes the sensor dies with just .010 movement. sometimes it takes longer. here is an engine I bought a couple months ago.
You've been having some bad luck lately! First the 5spd now this lol.
You could say that LOL. I'm used to it, I tend to have really bad luck with the most common of things. The 5spd is all together and was in the car....But now it's out and I'm selling it LOL
Originally Posted by 94AWDcoupe
crank movement cuts through the sensor in both directions. doesnt matter if pull or push clutch is used. sometimes the sensor dies with just .010 movement. sometimes it takes longer. here is an engine I bought a couple months ago.
Well that does make me feel better, then. I'm swapping the flywheel and clutch to see if that solves my knock issue...Not sure what to do about the dust cover not fitting. The crank extends about 1/4" from the block, but I have no idea if that's normal.
Jul 18, 2016, 01:55 AM
