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Synapse still the best for driveability?

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Old Sep 22, 2016, 02:13 PM
  #16  
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Yeah well replacing free of charge is great in all except for when you're on the side of the highway. Then IDGAF the cost and just wanna drive home, lol. Sucks I think I got rid of my crappy plastic one that would be a great lil trinket to keep in the glove box lol.

And yeah I recall MrFred doing some sort of comparison but I thought that was for the older (massive) version. Are you using a spring that came with the unit or something custom for that? I just have a JB BBK Full and stock 2.0 so I don't think my setup is prone to surging relative to your BB unit however its still a quick spooling snail and once I eventually go 2.2 it'll probably be more prone to surge at that point.

I have a WORKS unit which seems to be cracking open at like 28# which is annoying. And it seems to like to flutter at light throttle inputs which is also annoying.

But if I can swap DV's get rid of the flutter and have it hold the boost then Ill prob pick up a couple hundred RPM's in spool which would be sweet! Maybe even a couple HP's to boot but my car isnt lacking powa. She's just a fat pig and needs to go on a diet. There I said it
Old Sep 22, 2016, 02:58 PM
  #17  
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Put the car on speed density. It'll drive with the BOV missing. I would be concerned with it denting the hood on my car if it came off at 32psi...LOL
Old Sep 22, 2016, 06:41 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
And yeah I recall MrFred doing some sort of comparison but I thought that was for the older (massive) version. Are you using a spring that came with the unit or something custom for that? I just have a JB BBK Full and stock 2.0 so I don't think my setup is prone to surging relative to your BB unit however its still a quick spooling snail and once I eventually go 2.2 it'll probably be more prone to surge at that point.

I have a WORKS unit which seems to be cracking open at like 28# which is annoying. And it seems to like to flutter at light throttle inputs which is also annoying.

But if I can swap DV's get rid of the flutter and have it hold the boost then Ill prob pick up a couple hundred RPM's in spool which would be sweet! Maybe even a couple HP's to boot but my car isnt lacking powa. She's just a fat pig and needs to go on a diet. There I said it

Heres my post from when I first installed it,

I switched from stock crushed to synapse dv with the lighter spring, port B to post TB, and port A open to ATM. This completely fixed any lift surge at autoX and driving on the street. AutoX cars are particularly sensitive to this with running part throttle at high rpm in 2nd gear and this completely eliminated it on course. The only place I can get a slight flutter, if I really try, is in 5th at a real low rpm loading the turbo and slowly lifting.

I also pressure tested it to well over 30 psi and of course it didn't leak because the area of port B is larger than the inlet on the pressure side of the valve.

MrFred also switched from the Tial to the synapse after having horrible lift surge. He said it about 80-90% fixed it for him as well.
I definitely still believe it too. The best thing I can say about it, as its setup now I never notice it on course. It just works exactly how I want. Modulating throttle, holding boost, releasing boost without flutter.. Its all working great for me.
Old Sep 23, 2016, 08:15 AM
  #19  
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Man. I may just have to install mine and see just how good it is.
Old Sep 26, 2016, 12:21 PM
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Thanks Dallas I think you're swaying me towards the Synapse.

Hey Sean can I have yours? I may even send you money for it...
Old Sep 26, 2016, 12:23 PM
  #21  
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I'm looking at installing it at this point...lol.
Old Sep 26, 2016, 12:27 PM
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Well wtf man!? Any complaints with your Tial? Think there are 2 current threads on this so I forget if you already commented on this...

Actually, Im probably better off buying one new so when it cracks it'll be covered. And it would also be interesting to hear your perspective back to back.
Old Sep 26, 2016, 12:31 PM
  #23  
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My tial works fine on the low boost track tune (23psi). On the street tune, which is 32psi tapering to 28psi, it is pretty annoying. I've learned to drive "around" paying attention to throttle position vs RPM and what the turbo is doing. But in reality, its a pain in the ***. I can't accelerate at 1/2 throttle in 4th. It just starts fluttering once the turbo gets on the whip.
Old Sep 26, 2016, 12:55 PM
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Oh gross yeah f that noise. I guess Synapse it is. Now I just need to get rid of my WORKS unit. They were supposed to call me back in regards to that. Funny Im the only one thats ever complained about it not holding 30#...I might have to reach back out and see what they have to say again.

I'd hate to sell it to someone and screw them over. I guess as long as I say it seems to open around 28# then no harm no foul. But nobody is going to pay much more than what a IX valve goes for given its barely better at that point.
Old Sep 26, 2016, 01:21 PM
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Yeah. I drove an evo with a tial QRJ that had a real turbo kit, and it worked fine. So I think its the fast spool characteristics that the stock frame turbo has that hurt the performance.
Old Sep 26, 2016, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Man. I may just have to install mine and see just how good it is.


What the hell man, it takes like 5min to install :P.


Cant speak to big turbo setups but the quick spool of the Blouch 1.0XTR on a 2.3 is completely unphased. I haven't had a BOV work this good since the 1g BOV with dejon stop leak kit. Actually, this works better, but that was the previous best.


And for pressure testing, I got to 35psi with no leaking when I first installed on pressure test before I blew apart the pressure tester.
Old Sep 26, 2016, 04:22 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
What the hell man, it takes like 5min to install :P.


Cant speak to big turbo setups but the quick spool of the Blouch 1.0XTR on a 2.3 is completely unphased. I haven't had a BOV work this good since the 1g BOV with dejon stop leak kit. Actually, this works better, but that was the previous best.


And for pressure testing, I got to 35psi with no leaking when I first installed on pressure test before I blew apart the pressure tester.
Not really. My UICP has a tial flange welded to it. I have bare UICP that I need to weld the synapse flange to and install everything. So maybe an hour or so. But I've been busy.
Old Sep 26, 2016, 06:19 PM
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nvm
Old Sep 26, 2016, 07:53 PM
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the body failed on mine. They are replacing it for free. but its taking them a long *** time.
Old Sep 27, 2016, 04:30 AM
  #30  
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Haha scared that **** out of Aaron!!


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