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Help Needed! Need new Turbo, Boost Controller & Turbo Timer.
My baby was running roughly 20psi, but she started stuttering when accelerating every now and then and now she has zero boost.
I live near Chattanooga TN, I looked around when I moved back for a reliable mechanic but no one works on modified cars, much less AWD...
When my turbo kicked it, I became desperate and started calling everywhere. I found a shop that said they'd work on it and they seemed like a great shop.
However, the head mechanic has been all but ignoring me and my car.
I don't want to leave the parts decisions up to them and all I've gotten from them is a couple of strings of numbers off of the turbo.
> 49378-01560
> TD05HR-16G6-10.57 (I think he read the last character wrong, should it be a T?)
This seems to be a stock turbo, I have a 05 EVO MR and only 3K to spend.
Also, I want to get a new Boost Controller and get a Turbo Timer (also maybe a waste-gate?).
EDIT
Should have mentioned this originally, but she's got:
- manifold back 3" stainless exhaust
- Cams (I have no info on them)
- Injen Intake
- AMS Intercooler
Questions (I'm sure there'll be more)
What turbo can/should replace this one using the same flanges ect.?
What's the best all-around boost controller & turbo timmer?
Last edited by M-A-T-T; Dec 6, 2016 at 06:00 PM.
Reason: Provide more info
Look for a used Evo9 turbo in the for sale section. It is a direct swap. The turbo timer is not necessary. The boost controller will help and the stock waste gate will be fine.
If concerned you can adjust the tensioner rod. A good BPV may be something to consider if you plan on pushing more than stock boost.
A modded EVO9 BPV has good drivability and works well for stock boost levels. Also fits in the stock location with no modification needed to the surrounding system.
^^ pretty much all thats left. An OEM evo 9 turbo is a nice upgrade from the 8 turbo also.
if you are running a MAF, stay Recirc (BPV) the stocker works fine at your boost level. running a BOV when on MAF will cause a rich condition between shifts, may cause rough idle/stumble. if the (WHOOSH/PSHHH) sound is what you are looking for, get reid of the box intake and do a MAF adapter with a cone filter.
Turbo timer? waste of money. dont need it... just idle for a few minutes after driving hard. you'll be fine.
With a boost controller you can not simply turn up the boost and go. You will need to be retuned. i recommend getting a 3-port solenoid as our stock are 2-port. this allows better boost control helping to battle boost taper. but if you dont plan on changing boost/tune then a boost controller is worthless.
I run the turbosmart 22psi wg actuator. it works well with my stock turbo.
with 3k to spend i would do: (depending on what you already have)
-full turboback exhaust
-get a used evo 9 turbo
-O2 housing
-3 port boost controller
-intake
-Lower IC pipe
-AFR and Boost gauge
-A TUNE
this will be plenty fun on pump gas! good luck and have fun!
No need for a turbo timer. Save your money. Our turbos are water cooled so stay in normal temps unless you drive the car really hard for an extended amount of time. If you do, let it idle a few mins before shutting it off.
All turbo timers do is wreak havok on your ignition system. You'll see what I mean the first time your car decides to not start LOL.
Seriously... 90% of the "My car won't start" issues I see is due to a turbo timer failing/bad install/etc. It's just not worth the trouble for a part you don't really need
If you wan't a better turbo that is under $1000 and fits your stock turbine housing, get the 71HTA. I promise you will be more than stoked with it. Best OEMish turbo out there. It bolts right up; no machining.
PSI is arbitrary. You have to find your TQ, fuel, HP, etc limits, then go from there. "I run 20 PSI" means nothing if on a small turbo and will blow everything up if on a large one. Cliffnotes: don't get hung up on a number.
Good luck, brotha! have fun.
FYI:
*A boost controller will be good for up to double the WGA psi. So, if you have a stock WGA @ 8psi (I don't remember what they actually are), you can do 16psi without it acting up. If you want to run 20psi you would need the next heavier WGA. I run an 18psi WGA so that i can peak at 30psi.
*You should be good with a IX/X diverter valve. I haven't had a problem with mine at 28-30psi, though i crushed mine a bit. It worked fine up to 25psi, if i remember right, before crushing.
Keep in mind I'm a minimalist. I don't believe in changing parts if I don't need to. As such, my opinions may differ with a lot of other people's (who will tell you to buy a lot of fancy parts). That's all up to you. I have a build thread for my car, if you are curious to see what you can get away with when it comes to OEM parts.
if you are running a MAF, stay Recirc (BPV) the stocker works fine at your boost level. running a BOV when on MAF will cause a rich condition between shifts, may cause rough idle/stumble. if the (WHOOSH/PSHHH) sound is what you are looking for, get reid of the box intake and do a MAF adapter with a cone filter.
I wish i knew if the Injen Intake I have is what you're talking about (car is on the other side of town, guess I can go look tomorrow)
I was hoping to go by the shop and take detailed pictures and do some investigating of my engine bay yesterday, but it looks like it won't be till Fri.
I think I'm figuring this out, just wish I had a honest knowledgeable mechanic.