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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 12:16 AM
  #46  
RightSaid fred's Avatar
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How hot is too hot?


It's when the tips of the turbine blades begin to melt

Last edited by RightSaid fred; Aug 6, 2017 at 01:26 AM.
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 10:16 AM
  #47  
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Turbine needs to be cleaned to see if it actually got over heated. My turbine had bluing due to heat and did not fail. The turbine is likely broken from hitting the housing, not heat.
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 10:23 AM
  #48  
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Did it fail on the 1st autox run of the day? I suspect it may have been damaged prior to starting the day. I cannot imagine a few autox runs generating enough heat to do that kind of damage.
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 11:03 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Turbine needs to be cleaned to see if it actually got over heated. My turbine had bluing due to heat and did not fail. The turbine is likely broken from hitting the housing, not heat.
I assume the bearing went bad, lots of shaft play.. turbine go boom. Since the turbo was lazy after my air cleaner fell apart, I'm guessing debris got into the turbo itself and wreaked havoc.
If so, that's one expensive ****ing air filter LOL

Originally Posted by nemsin
Did it fail on the 1st autox run of the day? I suspect it may have been damaged prior to starting the day. I cannot imagine a few autox runs generating enough heat to do that kind of damage.
It was the 11th run. I had a co-driver that day. It was on my very last run. I think something was wrong long before the AX event.
Better at a local event than a road course 3+ hours away
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 11:05 AM
  #50  
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I just bought an 8.5 turbo. If it's in decent shape, I'll toss it onto the car real quick so I can drive it on weekends.
If not, I'll save the turbine housing and build another HTA71 later.

I will now have not one... not two.. but three VIII CHRAs cluttering up my garage
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 04:07 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by kaj
I just bought an 8.5 turbo. If it's in decent shape, I'll toss it onto the car real quick so I can drive it on weekends.
If not, I'll save the turbine housing and build another HTA71 later.

I will now have not one... not two.. but three VIII CHRAs cluttering up my garage
I have a 8.5 turbo from my MR sitting around too. It's missing the turbine housing and has been sitting around on the shelf for something like nine years now. I wonder if it even still spins...

B
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 04:10 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
I have a 8.5 turbo from my MR sitting around too. It's missing the turbine housing and has been sitting around on the shelf for something like nine years now. I wonder if it even still spins...

B
OEM can never fail!
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 11:03 PM
  #53  
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I installed an oem unit from JDM e7 which was rusting in the yard for years.

Runs like a rabbit.
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Old Aug 22, 2017 | 06:26 AM
  #54  
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original post updated
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Old Aug 22, 2017 | 09:36 PM
  #55  
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OEM turbos rarely fail, if a turbo failed means it FAILED.

I haven't seen a molten oem unit or a greddy unit.
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Old Aug 23, 2017 | 07:15 AM
  #56  
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Yup. That's 100% my reason for going back to OEM.
That, and an inconclusive inspection report.
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Old Aug 23, 2017 | 11:26 PM
  #57  
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It's probably due to your stock BOV which opens and leaks at a pressure lower than your WG pressure (26 or 27 PSI).
That means that you get up to that boost pressure, the BOV leaks and limits the boost, your WG won't open, the leaking BOV makes the turbo overspeed, then because the WG won't open, it runs extra hot due to flowing all the exhaust instead of just some of it.


Real easy?

Leaking factory BOV....Bad
Modified factory BOV..........easy and free and no leaks.

Originally Posted by kaj
The turbo seemed to barely break a sweat @ 26psi
Originally Posted by Jaraxle
Stock metal EVO X BOV leaks at 25-26psi which is what EVERYONE said it would. I measured it here:


Last edited by RightSaid fred; Aug 23, 2017 at 11:48 PM.
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Old Aug 24, 2017 | 09:53 AM
  #58  
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Crushed they hold a little more pressure. And a small BOV leak isn't going to kill a turbo that is capable of making 30-35psi..
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Old Aug 24, 2017 | 11:35 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by RightSaid fred
It's probably due to your stock BOV which opens and leaks at a pressure lower than your WG pressure (26 or 27 PSI).
That means that you get up to that boost pressure, the BOV leaks and limits the boost, your WG won't open, the leaking BOV makes the turbo overspeed, then because the WG won't open, it runs extra hot due to flowing all the exhaust instead of just some of it.


Real easy?

Leaking factory BOV....Bad
Modified factory BOV..........easy and free and no leaks.
As we discussed earlier in the thread:


Originally Posted by RightSaid fred
You haven't mentioned your BOV?


The easiest way to kill a turbo is to have the spring on the BOV too tight so it doesn't vent properly.
Given enough time and going from full throttle to no throttle enough times, it'll surge and kill the bearings, ending up like your photo.


High EGTs will kill the engine before the turbo.
Originally Posted by kaj
Stock DV
Originally Posted by RightSaid fred
So what pressure does a stock DV blow open at?

An earlier stock plastic DV will open at just over 1 bar boost.

like here
The later metal ones open (starts to leak) at ???? PSI.

Then the turbo over speeds when trying to run more boost pressure.


Nobody knows?
Originally Posted by kaj
Slightly crushed, so not sure.
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Old Aug 27, 2017 | 06:46 PM
  #60  
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Dang man, sorry to hear about the bad luck. My 8.5 turbo in 55*weather I was able to make around 385hp ish. It was a lot of fun, in the summer heat my HTA71 wasn't even making that. Personally I think i would like the bb green for a little more top end.
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