Borg Warner S362 FMW + map Manifold
Marios ,
Which weld would stick to this housing ? we dont have tig welds here, CO2 welding and old school electric welding...
Honestly speaking , i am a bit skeptical about the flange welding part because it has to hold alot of weight [ down pipe ] + plus the heat. 40 Degree bend with a 3inch flange ? will it choke ?
Will it work ?
Which weld would stick to this housing ? we dont have tig welds here, CO2 welding and old school electric welding...
Honestly speaking , i am a bit skeptical about the flange welding part because it has to hold alot of weight [ down pipe ] + plus the heat. 40 Degree bend with a 3inch flange ? will it choke ?
Will it work ?
I have used all 3 of them over the years, yes either co2 or electrode weld will work. I actually have a turbo kit on my car, custom self-made, where I used both co2 and electrode welding as I know it will be ok. It is more a matter of the welder than the type of welding.
So you are worried weather a 3 inch v band o ring can hold the weight of the downpipe. It will, if it is welded properly, but you can also weld a bracket on the downpipe and bolt it on the chassis.
Yes 40-45 degrees of angle will work fine, no restriction, no backpressure addition and no added turbulance, as what matters is the internal diameter of the pipe not the angle. The only occasion the bend would cause a problem would be only if you use a 90 degrees bend.
As far as the turbo is concerned, BW uses a 2mm restrictor in the oil feed entry so no other restrictor is needed, or they do not use one at all in certain models, but if the line has a 2mm built in one, then you can use it as most journal bearing turbos whether they use a restrictor or not the oil feed hole is up to 2mm max. There is also no need to use the filter housing as feeding point, the head is more than fine for these turbos.
Marios
Last edited by Evo8cy; Aug 15, 2017 at 07:44 AM. Reason: typo
https://agpturbo.com/borg-warner-s36...8-13009097056/
AGP has a huge selection of hot sides for that turbo.
Having some jambroni stick weld it will be a disaster. Cast iron to steel requires you preheat the metal and post heat. You can use standard 7018 rod but the procedure must be followed, or it will just crack right off. Hastaloy "W" rod and a tig is the way to go.
AGP has a huge selection of hot sides for that turbo.
Having some jambroni stick weld it will be a disaster. Cast iron to steel requires you preheat the metal and post heat. You can use standard 7018 rod but the procedure must be followed, or it will just crack right off. Hastaloy "W" rod and a tig is the way to go.
https://agpturbo.com/borg-warner-s36...8-13009097056/
AGP has a huge selection of hot sides for that turbo.
Having some jambroni stick weld it will be a disaster. Cast iron to steel requires you preheat the metal and post heat. You can use standard 7018 rod but the procedure must be followed, or it will just crack right off. Hastaloy "W" rod and a tig is the way to go.
AGP has a huge selection of hot sides for that turbo.
Having some jambroni stick weld it will be a disaster. Cast iron to steel requires you preheat the metal and post heat. You can use standard 7018 rod but the procedure must be followed, or it will just crack right off. Hastaloy "W" rod and a tig is the way to go.
Firstly, you are wrong, I have done cast iron to ss the usual way no preheating or post heat with no issues. Secondly he is not welding cast iron to ss, he is welding cast iron back on cast iron, and then ss o-ring on to ss o2 housing or downpipe.
Marios
I'm so sick of posting on this board and fools reply that have no idea of what they are talking about so I'm done with this site. I've learned a lot but I'm done helping because of people like you.
Go ahead and google search this stuff and you will see who's blowing sand.
Children with no experience post up your garbage
Have a nice life.
https://agpturbo.com/borg-warner-s36...8-13009097056/
AGP has a huge selection of hot sides for that turbo.
Having some jambroni stick weld it will be a disaster. Cast iron to steel requires you preheat the metal and post heat. You can use standard 7018 rod but the procedure must be followed, or it will just crack right off. Hastaloy "W" rod and a tig is the way to go.
AGP has a huge selection of hot sides for that turbo.
Having some jambroni stick weld it will be a disaster. Cast iron to steel requires you preheat the metal and post heat. You can use standard 7018 rod but the procedure must be followed, or it will just crack right off. Hastaloy "W" rod and a tig is the way to go.
Cutting the flange off the housing and welding it back on will be difficult. Cast iron requires pre/post heat as stated. And then it has to deal with being a turbine housing where it is constanly heat cycled. I wouldn't bother with it.
If it was cast stainless, that would be a little different.
If it was cast stainless, that would be a little different.
Cutting the flange off the housing and welding it back on will be difficult. Cast iron requires pre/post heat as stated. And then it has to deal with being a turbine housing where it is constanly heat cycled. I wouldn't bother with it.
If it was cast stainless, that would be a little different.
If it was cast stainless, that would be a little different.






