Yeah. I m still thinking what went wrong in choosing this turbo ?

This was a perfect choice in terms budget and power goal.

 

Only thing I can think is the MAP mani isn't built with the longer BW foot print in mind.

 

The way i see it is that it doesnt hit any thing else. Mishimoto radiator fits , that housing shape is very odd , the flange design as compared to precision and garrette.

 

since you guys can't do even the most easy stuff, do not judge me by your ability.
I suggested a machine shop, if it's a proper shop they can cut it off, remove material off the housing and weld it back on. I do it myself with ordinary tools.

The same goes for welding, no heating needed, I've done this 10-15 times, how many times have you done it,in fact, I also have a turbo kit on the car right now done the way I said.

But if you like to post on the forum just for the sake of it in order to look like someone in the know, be my guest, reality differs.

O.P do whatever you feel easier and less stressful for you, if you feel like selling the turbo by all means do it, my suggestion was there to save you as much money as possible. This is a good turbo and it will deliver, it is worth bolting it on.


Marios

 

I understand buddy. Thanks for the input.

 

I've welded cast to cast, cast to stainless, Cast to tool steel. If you didn't preheat it's never going to last. Loaded with cracks and brittle. Tap it with a hammer and it will break like glass.
Let's see some pics buddy because your just posting garbage.







Here's my work where is yours?
Look for someone in the know? Really? That would be me!

 

Well mate, my welding lasted for years, the same goes for the one I have on the car right now for the past 1,5 years. And the only thing I see here is ss welding nothing more, as for garbage the only one posting that is you.




So I should take pics of the work I do just in case some thread on a forum pops up and I'll have to justify things. No, that's not me. As for someone in the know, I doubt that you are one.



Nevertheless , I searched my old pc and found something just for the sake of the thread, this is a 9 year old photo and one of the few I take of the work I do, I took it when I got the kit off the car as the kit was to be sold to, and the guy wanted a pic of it.


The flexible on the dump pipe is stainless steel, the pipe is cast iron, 3mm thick.

Two piece dump pipe.

Also on the smaller/lower part of the dump pipe, the flange is cast iron, the pipe is ss as is the bracket.



The rest of the fabrication is all ss.





























Marios

 

I can't believe you actually posted that! LOL. That last pic is ....well just look at it. Chicken.......

Second pic You can see on the manifold the gussets you repaired, two different people welded on that header, you didn't make that.

All I can say is your very lucky it didn't break.

BTW the pipe and flange are both cast steel, not cast iron. Big difference as cast steel has the carbon removed from it.

 

Is it possible for a machine shop to machine the v-band flange right into the housing?

 

That is the point people are discussing , is the normal weld going to hold it or not.

Here the machine shop's are crappy , ill equiped . However, i can try.

 

I'm not talking about cutting the v-band flange off, then remove material from the housing outlet, then rewelding the v-band flange back on.

I'm talking about cutting the v-band flange off, then have the machine shop tool the turbine housing up in a lathe and literally cut the shape of the v-band flange right out of the housing material as close to the turbine housing volute exterior as possible but leave enough room so you can still get your v-band clamp on.

Heck, you might be able to reuse the cut off stainless steel v-band flange for your downpipe connection to the newly machined v-band flange out of the housing.

 

Click on this link to AGP Turbo's website.
Then click on "Product Description", and find this statement, "We also offer these housing machined to HX40 outlet or 3" V Band outlet. Keep in mind, these operations are machined features and not welded features like other shops offer."

https://agpturbo.com/t4-divided-inle...warner-s300sx/

However, this is for the T4 Divided Inlet 3.5" V Band Outlet for Borg Warner S300sx turbos.

Maybe give AGP Turbo a call, send them your pics and see if they'll machine you a new open T3 .63 A/R housing with a 3" v-band flange machined right into the housing as close as possible to the housing exterior effectively reducing the overall width of the housing.

If you do get a new housing, try and sell yours on eBay or something.
Still cheaper then selling the entire turbo for a loss and then buying another turbo.

 

Right now i am in the office. I will take a look and talk to the machine shop guy.

I didnt think it this way, lets see what the machine shop guy has to say ..

 

The manifold is a ready made item, we modified it to accept the external gate, and I did repair the manifold myself and welded the brackets on it, yes a friend and me.


The factory welding on the manifold was too thin and cracked, but the parts I welded or re-welded to re-inforce never did.


Marios

 

The way the housing is, no it's not possible.










Marios