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If your sure the belt isnt loose. Then its likely a lifter issue. If you replace the lifters your gonna remove the timing belt.. if your car has over 80k miles i would recommend a full timing belt job with idler pulleys,hydro tensioner and also the secondary tensioner pulley.
Assuming it is the lifters, what are good lifter replacements?
You can use that. What i have used. 2 out of the 6 cars ive done had failed hyrdraulic tensioners soon after. And the symptom was a horific noise like yours. Thats why i keep leading you toward the tensioner.
What happens is you push the tensioner in and its not used to being fully collapsed and they start to leak there fluid, eventually losing tension and making noise.
How many miles on car? And have any of the timing components been replaced?
I'm honestly unsure of the last time of the belt was changed. It's on my list of things to do, however wanted to get this noise resolved first before doing that.
I inspected the belt, and saw no cracks/signs of wear ( although I know this is terrible to go by ).
I'm a bit intimidated on tackling a Timing Job myself even though I've pretty much done everything else on this car ( also don't trust any local shops in this small town ).
So I'll need to probably suck it up and making look into doing a full timing job. Assuming the issue is a pre-failing hydraulic tensioner, it'll eventually just fail and kill my motor when it does. That and I have no history of replacing the belt either. So needs to be done regardless.
I have the same problem on my Evo 6 TME
I know its not rod knock. My Apexi power FC ecu is not pickup any unusual knock.
The sound is coming from the cam-belt side of the engine. Last change was new 272 cams , HKS cam gears , 800cc sard inj , FP turbo.
I feel like its the tensioner that causing it but could be wrong.
Mines sounds exactly like this vid that i found on youtube :
I have the same problem on my Evo 6 TME
I know its not rod knock. My Apexi power FC ecu is not pickup any unusual knock.
The sound is coming from the cam-belt side of the engine. Last change was new 272 cams , HKS cam gears , 800cc sard inj , FP turbo.
I feel like its the tensioner that causing it but could be wrong.
Mines sounds exactly like this vid that i found on youtube :
I really appreciate all your feedback so far. I am leaning towards it being a bad tensioner. Belt as I said needs to be replaced anyway regardless if this fixes the problem or not. So I'll be ordering all my timing components soon.
1. Set engine to compression top dead center. On crank and cam gear timing marks aligned with valve cover.
No grab a whiteout brush and mark each sprocket and belt tooth. Doesnt matter what tooth as long as you mark the belt and the sprocket. You must mark a actual tooth on the belt. Do it on each cam. Then do 2 marks on the crank side. Now when you remove the belt you lay it on a tablr and lay new belt ontop of it. No you make the same marks on the new belt. So when you go install it. You just gotta line up your marks
2. The tensioner pulley must be used in a clockwise manner.
Full timing belt job was done, with all belts, tensioner, and pullies changd. The issue still remains.
I'm not sure to what to think now. Leaning either towards something wrong in the bottom end ( noise gets loud after it warms up. not the other way around ) or something else.
--Edit--
I did forget to add, that the filter was opened, and no metal flakes/glitter was found inside.
Last edited by Chrispy0530; Oct 16, 2017 at 07:02 PM.
if it really sounds like that video, its rod knock. whoever said lifters is iether deaf or didnt bother playing the video and assumed.
did you already do the lifters?
how long has the sound been happening? have you driven it much like that?
if you got to it earlier enough you can just replace rod bearings and it should be fine. HOWEVER you need to figure out what caused the rod knock to begin with or you will just eat the next set of bearings you put in.
note: in your video there is 2 distinct sounds. sometimes when a motor over heats it will cause a set of rod bearings to spin and the resulting sludge will clog the lifters. you gotta find out WHAT happened or fixing the symptoms won't gain anything.
if it really sounds like that video, its rod knock. whoever said lifters is iether deaf or didnt bother playing the video and assumed.
Hm, cause I've heard many vehicles with rod knock before, and this one sounds quite unusual from the rest. That's not to say I am ruling out the possibility of it being rod knock, just saying its odd. Especially when it only gets louder as the car warms up.
Also, wouldn't my filter be full of metal shavings if it was in fact rod knock?
did you already do the lifters?
I haven't yet.
how long has the sound been happening? have you driven it much like that?
Car has been driven at least 900 miles like this. It hasn't gotten any worse, but I know that noise level is not normal.
if you got to it earlier enough you can just replace rod bearings and it should be fine. HOWEVER you need to figure out what caused the rod knock to begin with or you will just eat the next set of bearings you put in.
note: in your video there is 2 distinct sounds. sometimes when a motor over heats it will cause a set of rod bearings to spin and the resulting sludge will clog the lifters. you gotta find out WHAT happened or fixing the symptoms won't gain anything.
If rod bearings are in fact the case here, I'd rather go with a brand new OEM short block from Mitsu for piece of mind and have the head re-done by a reputable vendor. Would also need to replace the turbo as well ( as shavings would have entered.. but again no shavings in filter )
Last edited by Chrispy0530; Oct 17, 2017 at 08:35 AM.
Hm, cause I've heard many vehicles with rod knock before, and this one sounds quite unusual from the rest. That's not to say I am ruling out the possibility of it being rod knock, just saying its odd. Especially when it only gets louder as the car warms up.
Also, wouldn't my filter be full of metal shavings if it was in fact rod knock?
I haven't yet.
Car has been driven at least 900 miles like this. It hasn't gotten any worse, but I know that noise level is not normal.
If rod bearings are in fact the case here, I'd rather go with a brand new OEM short block from Mitsu for piece of mind and have the head re-done by a reputable vendor. Would also need to replace the turbo as well ( as shavings would have entered.. but again no shavings in filter )
I had rod bearing failure WAY worse than this noise.
Throw a new crank, bearings and hone/re-ring, new oil cooler, clean it up and call it a day for much cheaper than a short block.
yikes i forget different cultures exist sometimes. im talking about swapping lifters with out pulling the head, doing a manual crank polish and putting new bearings in. total cost like 300$ you guys are talking about new cranks and shortblocks. my wallet just burst into flames from READING that.
