Cutting the cranks on these can be a crap shoot, and undersized bearings can be difficult to find if you go past .010 over.

Used, good crank. They can be had cheap enough.

And if you have metal shavings, your oil cooler is toast. Block it off, buy new, or suffer the wrath of another blown motor.

Ask me how I know.

I'm in the same boat, no new motor money here.

 

I am still not convinced my bottom end is done, however I am preparing for the worst case scenario.

Oil cooler would definitely be replaced without a doubt. ( again, no metal shavings atm )

 

Not in this part of the world.

Nobody ever buys a new one, they get reground.
Because we know how to do it properly.



BTW "oversize bearings"....that's your problem.

Start off at 45.00 mm
grind to 44.75 mm.

The bearings are "undersize"

they come in 0.25, 0.50 and 0.75 mm "undersizes".

 

If you are hearing clacking and you don't have glitter in your oil then its not rod knock. By the time you hear the noise your oil pan will have what looks like a ground up penny sitting in the bottom.

 

I figured. But as of right now I have no idea what the problem could be.

Suggestions I've been given on what it could be:

 

You're correct. My fault.

0.25mm = .01 inches

Off the shelf, you aren't getting much more than that in a bearing, unless you turn to a 4g64 bearing selection.

Also, factory cranks are Induction Hardened. It can be detrimental to cut them too far.

However, it does get done all the time. To each their own.

 

As much was I wanted to deny it, I can now confirm the issue is bottom end related. When I unplug the injector to cylinder number one, the noise practically goes away completely. When I plug it back in and unplug another injector, the noise remains.

Now it's weird that I do not have any shavings in the engine oil, so I'm thinking my rod bearings may be fine. Sounds like it could be a possible wrist-pin issue? Any suggestions? ( Aside from getting the head off and such, will be doing that ).

note: this noise only happens after the engine has been fully warmed up. Engine noise/knock is not noticeable when warming up.



Some videos before I tried unplugging the injectors.

Video #1

Video #2

 

Pull the oil pan and look at your bearings. Kind of hard to tell

 

Again...NO.

Induction hardening goes deep enough to cut them to 0.75 mm undersize.
It's done regularly without problems.

You're getting confused with "Nitriding" which is done to race cranks but it's a lot shallower.
No factory mitsubishi cranks are nitrided. They're all induction hardened otherwise they're too soft.

 

Disable one cylinder at a time, and see if it goes away. Either unplug an injector, or pull the coil or spark plug wire off the spark plug. It may be collapsed or broken piston, or an issue with a wrist pin.


A clean oil filter means you did not spin/eat a rod bearing. Also, if it was a rod bearing, it would not still be running. They don't last long once they start making noise.

 

Has the OP cut open his oil filter yet? FWIW I havent opened up my motor yet, just drained the oil in the pan which came out clean but when I cut open the filter I found bronze pieces within the filter element and the actual oil inside the filter was very glimmery.

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post11778773

 

^Lol you win....strange. The 2nd video posted almost sounds like a typical lifter tick. But and then again sounds from a video dont always do it justice to what it sounds like live.

 

Hey guys,

haven't updated this in a bit. So here is where I am at.

Yup, I did this last week, and the noise basically disappears on Cylinder #1. Nearest the timing belt when the injector is unplugged. None of the other injectors have effect when Cylinder #1 remains plugged in. So the issue is isolated to that Cylinder.

Filter has been cut opened, and is clean.


Yup, filter was cut opened, and nothing outside the norm. Looks good.




So at this point, I will be pulling the motor out, and checking out what is going on with the short block, and send it off to the machine shop for a basic refresh. My power goals are not large by any means, so this particular build won't require crazy rod/piston setup.

Will try to re-use what I can, including crank and hopefully drive it for another 100-150k miles. ( I'll be purchasing another short block to build on the side for slightly more power. But for now, the car can't be down for too long in my apartment complex.

 

Eagle H-beams and off the shelf 9:1 Wiseco HD's is all you need.