Alright well to settle thing here is what i got.

ENGINE:

ATP GT3071R Ball Bearing Turbo Kit
TiaL 38mm Waste Gate
Tial BOV
HKS 264i/264e Cams
HKS Adjustable Cam Gears
HKS DLI2 Twin Power Ignition
AMS Methanol Injection kit (Can use water or alcohol as well)
AMS Upper I/C Pipe
AMS Intercooler
AMS Small Battery kit
ARP Head Studs
Greddy Lower Intercooler Piping
Injen Intake
Cusco SS Manifold Shield

ENGINE INTERNALS:

Ross Forged Pistons
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Supertech Valve Springs
Supertech Titanium Retainers
All Forged and Fully built 2.0 motor by AMS Chicago! (www.automotosports.com)

FUEL SYSTEM:

720cc Denso/Greddy Injectors
Perrin Fuel Rail
255lph Walbro Fuel Pump
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator

EXHAUST:

Invidia SS Test Pipe
Espelir JGT500 3" SS Cat-Back Exhaust
3" ATP SS downpipe

AEM EMS Fully Tuneable Standalone ECU 3.5 Bar MAP Sensor (Tuned by world class tuner Martin Musial)
AEM Wideband Air/Fuel
Defi D Boost Gauge
HKS Turbo Timer
i am at 430 hp and 392 tq but as of now i got to replace timing belt tensioner and i know that 272 cams are better on evo's so while i am tearing into all of that why not do it all at once you kn ow?

EVIL i didnt see any 10.5's for our evos just 10.2 and 10.8

 

with your list of mods, and the alky, I'd say for sure you would benefit from going to a bigger cam. 272 at least, maybe a 280 depending on brand. The 3071 may give up a lot more torque than you're willing if you step up to a 280. If you had a 3076, I'd say 280 all the way. Just depends on what you're after. You have a quick spooling turbo and if you go to big on the cam, you could lose a lot of torque for maybe 10 whp extra past 7000 rpms. Again, just my opinion. I think the GSC 272's would be perfect, and they are not identical to HKS cams, as some think here on evom.

 

I am lost on the term ALKY which refers to what?

 

Alchy..... translates to your meth injection.

Since you have EMS and a built head..... I'd go with the most aggressive cam possible.

 

ALL three HKS EVO 8 cams feature 10.8mm lift Int and 10.2mm Exh. Apparently you seem confused in believing there are two different HKS 272 cam sets. There is only one.

My first comment is that it makes little sense to be to step up from an HKS 264 to 272. There's just not enough difference to justify the cost and hassle.

My second comment is that all that money put toward the upgraded valvetrain and built rotating assembly isn't worth what you're getting out of it. It's hardly justifiable to throw thousands after an entire engine in exchange for only ~430whp. You didn't need any of that to make 430whp safely, which is within the capability and durability potential of the factory shortblock and head.

Also, it was hardly worth putting an AEM EMS into the car at this point. Again, it's just something else that you never, ever would have needed for 430whp and a 3071R.

If I were in your position with all these thousands invested in (as of yet) unneeded hardware and not much power to show for it considering the size of the figure you have invested, I'd be inclined to make more substantial upgrades than contemplating inching up from an HKS 264 to HKS 272 cam (which is but a tiny, unworthwhile step).

 

Ted B you are incorrect. Our cams have different centerlines, different peak lift, and different 1mm or .040" durration than HKS cams. they are also ground on a different type of Machine. HKS can not grind cams to our specs with out having chatter on the lobe.

also Cam Gear settings are not universal. you should use a degree wheel and a dial indicator to setup cam timing or overlap. Adjustments or settings on one motor might be slighly different than another.

 

Well to let you know Ted B the only reason i am running 430 is because its set on a mild tune. the engine has been built for an easy 700HP all i have to do is swap out my turbo. the reason i am going with upgraded cams is because next month we are going to get tuned and i am going with a much more aggressive tune since i now got an aftermarket clutch. so if i spent another lets say 3000 dollars ted b i would be into the 600hp but then i wouldnt have the money to replace my tranny or the transfer cases which is an easy 15000 new for all just parts alone.

 

Yes, I became aware of that after making that post several months ago. I have some lift and duration data for your cams, but I am still without LC information, so I cannot complete the updated records.

And yes, woe to thee who thinks that cam settings for one set of cams applies equally to a completely different set, or that terms of advertised duration '264' or '272' are universal 'measuring sticks' between different brands of cams.

 

ok then ted b what would you suggest ?

 

My suggestions are as follows:


Instead of nickle and diming yourself to death with tiny changes plus installation and retuning expenses, it makes far more financial sense (since you are apparently concerned) to make a large jump at once. You'd be far the wiser to upgrade cams and turbo (and whatever else) simultaneously, both to far more serious pieces. I'd be looking for at least a 35R and a set of JUN 272s.


Two things:

I don't know how much more you're expecting out of that 3071R, but . . .

Secondly, I have an upgraded tranny, and I'll be reserving an updated transfer case as well. The pricetag for these two is nowhere near $15,000, even if you toss in the cost of the larger turbo, substantially larger cams, clutch, and tuning.

 

well i am not looking to do too much more right now i would love to get like 480 with this turbo WHP not looking to upgrade turbo yet too many bills i would love to go for the GT35 but i heard it sucks until over 4000rpm

 

wow jeff, and you thought I was abrasive!!!!

 

Maybe someone will chime in if they know differently, but I don't recall seeing more than maybe ~450whp on C16 with a 3071R. For the sake of perspective, I'm running a stock block, stock head and valvetrain, and stock ECU, and I'm getting that figure with 93 octane (GT35R).

As far as the characteristics of the GT35R, let's just say that what one gains after 4000rpm is much greater than what one loses before that. And honestly speaking, the difference in lag between a 3071R and 35R isn't much considering the difference in power. IMO, a 3071R is a fairly laggy turbo for its power potential.

Finally, I'll reiterate my point that if you put a pencil and paper to it, you're better off staying right where you are until you can make a big, truly worthwhile jump that justifies all that hardware. You've asked me for my advice, and there it is in all sincerity. Rest assured, I've been down this road.

 

LOL

This definitely was NOT intended to come off as being abrasive. . . at ALL.

On the contrary, I was simply urging him to step back and take a look at the bigger picture, from a pragmatic point of view. After all, with folks running around making 500+ whp (safely) with bolt-ons and an ECU-flash, we all benefit from separating what we need from what we think we need, and to the tune of thousands of dollars at that. After all, if one is going to sit back and throw mega-thousands at it, he may as well have a lot of something to show for it. And while lottery winners may not agree, they are definitely in the minority.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but when you guys switched from whatever settings you guys were on to the -4/-1.5 combination, did you need to do anything to your maps?

Or did you run the same map, just changed the settings on the cam gear?

I'm quite tempted to make the switch, but I have a custom tune already, and don't want to have to start tuning from scratch again.