When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Another Busted Throw out Bearing and ACT clutch questions
Well picked up a "non running" evo 9 from an auction a while back and turned out to be a boot blown off of intercooler piping... car runs great, was driving to emmisions and the throw out bearing blew up
upon transmission removal and inspection the tob part number: 30502-AA080
turns out to be a oem SUBARU tob (not really sure what to think of that but...)
I also inspected the clutch and notice some heat cracking on the pressure plate, a few light heat marks on the flywheel (not bad) and little friction material left on the clutch
car background... (I don't know much as far as how the car was treated but the two days I drove it the clutch felt great with smooth engagement and was not too stiff, although i tend to prefer a stiffer pedal feel
from what ive gathered the car has the sbr turbo kit on it including
all the sbr piping
sbr exhaust manifold
oem intercooler
GT3076R or gt35r (I will have to dissasemble and measure to tell as the label/plate is missing... either way its ball bearing and massive)
1200cc injectors
large tial bov
... plus random others
I haven't pushed the car however it sounds cammed and looks to make massive power
once all back together the first drive will be to my local tuner to learn more
In the mean time with the transmission out I'm looking into new ACT clutches (re-using ACT flywheel after resurfacing)
I am avoiding the ACT Heavy Duty Performance Street Disc Clutch Kit (510 ft/lb) because I want to keep the torque capacity as close to the old setup as possible considering it seemed to work and drove well https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...isc-clutch-kit
unfortunately I don't know how many miles were on it and how well it held the current power (I won't WOT on the car until I know its on a safe tune and inspection of internals show it can handle some power)
I've done quite a bit of reading on this forum about the different clutch options for our vehicles and now I'm stuck at these two, now, I'm turning to your experiences and opinions to see which I should choose with my typical driving situations in mind
The exedy's aren't a viable option for me option until I decide this car is even safe at this high power (price vs. need) and I currently like the price as well as lack of complexity of these ACT kits... plus a discount through rally sport direct
My typical driving will include a decent amount of highway miles and also some serious hills near where I live during college (Bellingham, WWU)
Little to no hard launches, a few autocross events, and then daily driving throughout fall, winter, and most of spring
I've also read that the ACT tob's are trash and was curious about experiences with exedy tob's (I heard they are the oem provider, however, I am unsure)
I would confirm your setup and spec the clutch accordingly. I'm personally not a fan of the tractor like super heavy clutch pedal the XT pressure plate will give you. Better to go to a twin or triple disc clutch.
I used to run the (ME2-HDG6 - HD-M/Race Sprung 6 Pad) and like it, but not a friendly clutch on the street if you have hills. Holds plenty of power and shifts no issue 9K rpm.
I now run the (ME2-XTSS - XT-M/Perf Street Sprung) and like it much better for a daily driver. Clutch pedal is slightly stiffer, but I don't even think about it other than noticing an initial difference.
Regarding TOB, I use the ACT with no issues.
Make sure you lube the splines of the trans and disk hub with the supplied grease so the clutch will release at high rpm. People complain of lockout, but I've never had an issue. Be sure to wipe off excessive grease so it doesn't sling onto the disk.
I would confirm your setup and spec the clutch accordingly. I'm personally not a fan of the tractor like super heavy clutch pedal the XT pressure plate will give you. Better to go to a twin or triple disc clutch.
Is the car on E85, or pump gas? Built motor?
currently im running it with 92 octane (I got into boost once in gravel but at no other time)
plan is water meth on 92 for now I'm planning on having it tuned down a ton once its back together until i know what kind of internals...
planning headgasket replacement (when I do timing belt and check internals) and oil pan replacement (due to a dent also to further check internals)
currently no clue as to what kind of internals compression test showed equally lower compression I'm hoping its low comp pistons and not in need of a rebuild
Last edited by Konradj; Sep 6, 2017 at 11:22 AM.
Reason: talked about an oil leak from headgasket when I meant valve cover seal
I would confirm your setup and spec the clutch accordingly. I'm personally not a fan of the tractor like super heavy clutch pedal the XT pressure plate will give you. Better to go to a twin or triple disc clutch.
Truth. I switched from ACT to Exedy and couldn't be happier. Only plus from the ACT vs. Exedy is that the ACT lasted forever (but did get stuck with ridiculous high RPM lockout).
Well, with that turbo, and plans to run meth, it should make 400wtq even with a stock motor. IMO, the best clutch is an Exedy HD twin for that level. It will survive the abuse a regular or organic clutch won't, it will drive better than a 6 puck single disc, and the clutch pedal effort is a LOT less than the ACT XT pressure plate.
these are some great responses guys, I really appreciate it
once I sell my rx7 I will have an excess of cash and exedy will be on the table
I do expect to have to replace the clutch after around a year if I get serious about autocross which is why I am currently avoiding such a high cost
For the time being, I need a clutch to get this evo on the road and diagnose all/any issues as well as verify power/abilities and kind of develop a baseline to begin modification (if needed) as well as get me around during the seasons I don't drive the summer car
Still curious if anyone can shed some light on the current act throw out bearing situation
I used to run the (ME2-HDG6 - HD-M/Race Sprung 6 Pad) and like it, but not a friendly clutch on the street if you have hills. Holds plenty of power and shifts no issue 9K rpm.
I now run the (ME2-XTSS - XT-M/Perf Street Sprung) and like it much better for a daily driver. Clutch pedal is slightly stiffer, but I don't even think about it other than noticing an initial difference.
Regarding TOB, I use the ACT with no issues.
Make sure you lube the splines of the trans and disk hub with the supplied grease so the clutch will release at high rpm. People complain of lockout, but I've never had an issue. Be sure to wipe off excessive grease so it doesn't sling onto the disk.
For a DD with hills, don't even consider installing a multi-plate clutch
The XTSS (with OEM TOB) is the clutch I've been running in my Daily Driver IX This is the second XTSS I've installed in my car (more than 80k on the last one) I rebuilt the engine, trans and xfer case last winter and bought another brand new ACT.
1. The pedal pressure isn't that bad - I commute up and down i405 every day.
2. My experience is that any lockout issue is adjustment related (yes periodic adjustment is needed on a wear item like a clutch)
The ACT will last you a long time for street duties, as long as you don't aggressively launch the car at every stoplight.
For a DD with hills, don't even consider installing a multi-plate clutch
The XTSS (with OEM TOB) is the clutch I've been running in my Daily Driver IX This is the second XTSS I've installed in my car (more than 80k on the last one) I rebuilt the engine, trans and xfer case last winter and bought another brand new ACT.
1. The pedal pressure isn't that bad - I commute up and down i405 every day.
2. My experience is that any lockout issue is adjustment related (yes periodic adjustment is needed on a wear item like a clutch)
The ACT will last you a long time for street duties, as long as you don't aggressively launch the car at every stoplight.
John-
Thanks again for all the responses and thoughts
I ended up choosing the xtss kit with oem tob I hate to revive old threads but i will likely post an update after the break in period I'm picking the parts up today)
For a DD with hills, don't even consider installing a multi-plate clutch
John-
I would disagree with this regarding the exedy twin disk. Mine has over 50k miles on it including a couple of autocross seasons, a hand full of 1/4 mile passes and plenty of daily driving. Once it was broken in and I got used to it it was fine. Sure, I'll stall it once in a hundred take offs if I'm not paying attention but never had a single issue with it.
Thanks again for all the responses and thoughts
I ended up choosing the xtss kit with oem tob I hate to revive old threads but i will likely post an update after the break in period I'm picking the parts up today)
hows the xtss holding up? in the market for a clutch and everyone is telling me exedy twin, car is gonna be at 500whp and gonna do some autox and maybe a road race track day, from what i've read its a split between full face act vs exedy twin
Worst case scenario, I've daily driven an unsprung 6 puck, with an extreme pressure plate. I got used to it. They are cheap, low-maintenance, and last forever.
any of those features you can do without makes driving easier.
I'd never recommend unsprung. From there, I'd prefer a light pedal and 6 puck to disc+ extreme pressure plate.
It's really up to what you feel like dealing with.
FWIW: I've used ACT singles for twelve years without a problem or "high RPM lockout".
Sep 5, 2017, 07:45 PM
