Rough cost of reliable 500whp on fp red or black
Thanks for the info! Now time for the hardest part...paying off the rest I owe on the STI selling that and using that money and some cash i have in case to get an Evo. It's so tempting though to be financially irresponsible and just go out and get an Evo and lose money from trading in the STI lol. If all works out well summerish I should have an Evo.
The 4g63 is a powerhouse if you follow some general guidelines. Keep the torque around 400whp and use good fuel. A conservative tune by a well known tuner is also important. Using a chassis dyno can help you dial in the car quicker and safer then endless road logs. Let the oil warm up before beating on the car. This takes 10-15 minutes in some cases and is often overlooked. Avoid flooring the car at low rpm and high load.
If its an Evo 9 stock cams / valvetrain can be used if things are in good shape. Now, if you are changing the Timing belt and tensioner then that is a good time to do cams and springs. GSC S2 and beehives are a great combination.
Full boltons include ,fuel pump, injectors, air filter, intercooler, full exhaust. The stock Evo 9 turbocharger makes 350whp on pump gas and around 400whp on ethanol with this setup.
I'm a fan of using the smallest, most responsive turbocharger to reach your goals if its a street car and you have ethanol. Here are some well proven methods.
FP Red with MHI housing will make 500whp and be responsive/reliable. I had full boltons and made 400/400 on the stock turbo then added the Red and spool up was very close but it easily made 500/400 on ethanol. Around 420whp on pump gas. This turbo has a broad power band and will come on quick enough to slide the car around corners if needed. It will also make 600whp all in .
An FP green with the SS housing would be able to make 500whp+ on ethanol.
BBK full MHI will make 450-500whp on ethanol.
The MHI housing spools up quickly but is more restrictive at high rpms .
As far as small turbo coming on early causing too much torque is concerned, this is 100% controllable . Boost and timing will control power each and every time.
If you don't have access to Ethanol then you will have to go with a bigger and laggier turbocharger. There isn't an affordable,variable geometry stock frame turbocharger at this time.
If its an Evo 9 stock cams / valvetrain can be used if things are in good shape. Now, if you are changing the Timing belt and tensioner then that is a good time to do cams and springs. GSC S2 and beehives are a great combination.
Full boltons include ,fuel pump, injectors, air filter, intercooler, full exhaust. The stock Evo 9 turbocharger makes 350whp on pump gas and around 400whp on ethanol with this setup.
I'm a fan of using the smallest, most responsive turbocharger to reach your goals if its a street car and you have ethanol. Here are some well proven methods.
FP Red with MHI housing will make 500whp and be responsive/reliable. I had full boltons and made 400/400 on the stock turbo then added the Red and spool up was very close but it easily made 500/400 on ethanol. Around 420whp on pump gas. This turbo has a broad power band and will come on quick enough to slide the car around corners if needed. It will also make 600whp all in .
An FP green with the SS housing would be able to make 500whp+ on ethanol.
BBK full MHI will make 450-500whp on ethanol.
The MHI housing spools up quickly but is more restrictive at high rpms .
As far as small turbo coming on early causing too much torque is concerned, this is 100% controllable . Boost and timing will control power each and every time.
If you don't have access to Ethanol then you will have to go with a bigger and laggier turbocharger. There isn't an affordable,variable geometry stock frame turbocharger at this time.
The 4g63 is a powerhouse if you follow some general guidelines. Keep the torque around 400whp and use good fuel. A conservative tune by a well known tuner is also important. Using a chassis dyno can help you dial in the car quicker and safer then endless road logs. Let the oil warm up before beating on the car. This takes 10-15 minutes in some cases and is often overlooked. Avoid flooring the car at low rpm and high load.
If its an Evo 9 stock cams / valvetrain can be used if things are in good shape. Now, if you are changing the Timing belt and tensioner then that is a good time to do cams and springs. GSC S2 and beehives are a great combination.
Full boltons include ,fuel pump, injectors, air filter, intercooler, full exhaust. The stock Evo 9 turbocharger makes 350whp on pump gas and around 400whp on ethanol with this setup.
I'm a fan of using the smallest, most responsive turbocharger to reach your goals if its a street car and you have ethanol. Here are some well proven methods.
FP Red with MHI housing will make 500whp and be responsive/reliable. I had full boltons and made 400/400 on the stock turbo then added the Red and spool up was very close but it easily made 500/400 on ethanol. Around 420whp on pump gas. This turbo has a broad power band and will come on quick enough to slide the car around corners if needed. It will also make 600whp all in .
An FP green with the SS housing would be able to make 500whp+ on ethanol.
BBK full MHI will make 450-500whp on ethanol.
The MHI housing spools up quickly but is more restrictive at high rpms .
As far as small turbo coming on early causing too much torque is concerned, this is 100% controllable . Boost and timing will control power each and every time.
If you don't have access to Ethanol then you will have to go with a bigger and laggier turbocharger. There isn't an affordable,variable geometry stock frame turbocharger at this time.
If its an Evo 9 stock cams / valvetrain can be used if things are in good shape. Now, if you are changing the Timing belt and tensioner then that is a good time to do cams and springs. GSC S2 and beehives are a great combination.
Full boltons include ,fuel pump, injectors, air filter, intercooler, full exhaust. The stock Evo 9 turbocharger makes 350whp on pump gas and around 400whp on ethanol with this setup.
I'm a fan of using the smallest, most responsive turbocharger to reach your goals if its a street car and you have ethanol. Here are some well proven methods.
FP Red with MHI housing will make 500whp and be responsive/reliable. I had full boltons and made 400/400 on the stock turbo then added the Red and spool up was very close but it easily made 500/400 on ethanol. Around 420whp on pump gas. This turbo has a broad power band and will come on quick enough to slide the car around corners if needed. It will also make 600whp all in .
An FP green with the SS housing would be able to make 500whp+ on ethanol.
BBK full MHI will make 450-500whp on ethanol.
The MHI housing spools up quickly but is more restrictive at high rpms .
As far as small turbo coming on early causing too much torque is concerned, this is 100% controllable . Boost and timing will control power each and every time.
If you don't have access to Ethanol then you will have to go with a bigger and laggier turbocharger. There isn't an affordable,variable geometry stock frame turbocharger at this time.
I'm surprised no one has asked this yet, but, what are you looking to do with the car? You are pricing out a build for 500hp, but in many scenarios it doesn't take 500hp in an Evo to be as fast/faster than a 500 hp STI
I had my car tuned by Drunkmann.... Its tuned by CBRD now
I had knock issues that disappeared after. If youre in Philadelphia you have access to both TSComptuned and CBRD. Both are great shops that are about a 2 hour drive from philadelphia.
I wouldnt focus on numbers too much in an evo either. Ive ridden in 400whp Evos that feel like 600whp big turbo cars (and have beaten them too).
Both CBRD and TSComp are really great and will help you out. for a FULL motor build at CBRD (you drop the car off and you get it back ready to go with more HP) is a good bit less than 20k. I am not familiar with TSComp's pricing but I plan on paying a visit to them soon.
I used to live close to PSI (15 min or less). They are a solid shop but for an evo you really get what you pay for. I make the drive every time now
I had knock issues that disappeared after. If youre in Philadelphia you have access to both TSComptuned and CBRD. Both are great shops that are about a 2 hour drive from philadelphia.
I wouldnt focus on numbers too much in an evo either. Ive ridden in 400whp Evos that feel like 600whp big turbo cars (and have beaten them too).
Both CBRD and TSComp are really great and will help you out. for a FULL motor build at CBRD (you drop the car off and you get it back ready to go with more HP) is a good bit less than 20k. I am not familiar with TSComp's pricing but I plan on paying a visit to them soon.
I used to live close to PSI (15 min or less). They are a solid shop but for an evo you really get what you pay for. I make the drive every time now
Just want for one to hit 500whp haha and I wanna use it for track sanctioned roll racing, not drag racing.
I had my car tuned by Drunkmann.... Its tuned by CBRD now 
I had knock issues that disappeared after. If youre in Philadelphia you have access to both TSComptuned and CBRD. Both are great shops that are about a 2 hour drive from philadelphia.
I wouldnt focus on numbers too much in an evo either. Ive ridden in 400whp Evos that feel like 600whp big turbo cars (and have beaten them too).
Both CBRD and TSComp are really great and will help you out. for a FULL motor build at CBRD (you drop the car off and you get it back ready to go with more HP) is a good bit less than 20k. I am not familiar with TSComp's pricing but I plan on paying a visit to them soon.
I used to live close to PSI (15 min or less). They are a solid shop but for an evo you really get what you pay for. I make the drive every time now

I had knock issues that disappeared after. If youre in Philadelphia you have access to both TSComptuned and CBRD. Both are great shops that are about a 2 hour drive from philadelphia.
I wouldnt focus on numbers too much in an evo either. Ive ridden in 400whp Evos that feel like 600whp big turbo cars (and have beaten them too).
Both CBRD and TSComp are really great and will help you out. for a FULL motor build at CBRD (you drop the car off and you get it back ready to go with more HP) is a good bit less than 20k. I am not familiar with TSComp's pricing but I plan on paying a visit to them soon.
I used to live close to PSI (15 min or less). They are a solid shop but for an evo you really get what you pay for. I make the drive every time now
If you want to do straight line stuff, I would HIGHLY recommend the move to a turbo kit. An ETS Vband setup with a Precision 5858 or Gen2 5558 will handily make 550+ on E85 , and it will actually be easier on the stock motor than a 500whp stock frame due to less back pressure. You just need cams/valve springs, intercooler, and fuel system to go with it.
If you want to do straight line stuff, I would HIGHLY recommend the move to a turbo kit. An ETS Vband setup with a Precision 5858 or Gen2 5558 will handily make 550+ on E85 , and it will actually be easier on the stock motor than a 500whp stock frame due to less back pressure. You just need cams/valve springs, intercooler, and fuel system to go with it.
I would recommend riding in a few cars and thinking about your daily driver vs the events you are going to participate in.
Everything comes with a cost. The 5858 kit is a nice choice if you are going that route. A turbo kit will run much better down the track but you lose the snap that makes these cars fun. Dealing with a 2 liter engine it can only spool things up so quickly. Changing to a turbo kit can also change the way the car sounds so thats a big factor at least for me. Another reason I've stuck with stock frame stuff that performs.
I would recommend riding in a few cars and thinking about your daily driver vs the events you are going to participate in.
I would recommend riding in a few cars and thinking about your daily driver vs the events you are going to participate in.
I believe Tom as TScomptuned offers flex fuel kit and tuning on stock ecu with tephramod.
6266 with aforementioned upgrades should get you there. Again, like mentioned above, the larger frame turbo will be a bit easier on stock internals if you plan to roll race it for a bit before building the bottom end.







