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True, for me the exedy had excessive throw out bearing noise, heavier pedal, and less feel. YMMV
I have definitely experienced that lol, I didnt feel like the exedy was very heavy though, although heavy clutches dont feel that bothersome to me.
Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
A monoloc does absolutely zero/zilch/nada/nothing for lock out. All it does is stop the dreaded TOB popping out of the pressure plate.
What would you all reccomend for a clutch? The exeddy probably has around 20k on it but I think its starting to slip and I had to daily/get used to driving manual everyday with that clutch so I think it would probably make sense to switch. Do you think I should start another thread with a poll? for road racing and AutoX I should probably go for a single plate right?
Hopefully I can get pictures of the issues tomorrow, probably late and if I can rent that slide hammer from autozone.
I have definitely experienced that lol, I didnt feel like the exedy was very heavy though, although heavy clutches dont feel that bothersome to me.
What would you all reccomend for a clutch? The exeddy probably has around 20k on it but I think its starting to slip and I had to daily/get used to driving manual everyday with that clutch so I think it would probably make sense to switch. Do you think I should start another thread with a poll? for road racing and AutoX I should probably go for a single plate right?
Hopefully I can get pictures of the issues tomorrow, probably late and if I can rent that slide hammer from autozone.
At your power level, the ACT HDSS is my go to. Their is a guy in our local autocross region that has 140,000 (yes, 140,000) miles on his, and he goes to every one of our region's events. A few people have also installed the ACT 6 puck clutch and it is getting really good reviews for drivability, but it likely won't last as long as the organic disc.
At your power level, the ACT HDSS is my go to. Their is a guy in our local autocross region that has 140,000 (yes, 140,000) miles on his, and he goes to every one of our region's events. A few people have also installed the ACT 6 puck clutch and it is getting really good reviews for drivability, but it likely won't last as long as the organic disc.
Okay awesome, will look into it, how much room to grow (torque/power) would I have before I started running into issues? I believe the car has more power for it and I may swap cams & turbo later in the summer (GSC S2 or R2 and EFR 7163) and I would like to not have to switch clutches before I build my motor.
The HDSS will hold whatever the stock bottom end can handle. You can also do an XTSS if you're concerned. Same organic full face disk, but heavier clamping force pressure plate.
Alright, i got some quick questions then I can finally get some closure on the trans! Anyone have any tips as to how to pop off the monoloc off the clutch? Currently I have a transmission jack underneath and half about 60% of the window exposed. Does it make sense to put an engine mount back on so I can switch to a regular jack to pop off the lock? And should I hook up an engine hoist to support the motor after I drop the trans or should put a jack under somewhere (Evomoto suggests the later) (I would prefer to hook it up to a hoist unless its really no big deal to have a jack holding the engine).
Also, would it make sense to take apart the trans to get pics to send to TRE or should I just ship it off? Theres a nearby trans that has been recently rebuilt, but the gears need to be hung and the case resealed. Would it be worth it to pick that up since its a good bit cheaper than a rebuilt one?
Im asking these questions just to see what would be the best path for the car.
The TOB needs to be released while the trans is still bolted up to the motor. With slave cylinder off, you stick a flat tip screw drive between the TOB and the monoloc, pull the clutch for toards the driver side a bit (which pushed the TOB into the pressure plate), then twist the screwdriver and let the part of the fork you pulled on go back towards the passenger side. There are videos on youtube explaining it.
+1 on all said here. As for the clutch, I've run ACT HDSSs in pretty much all my cars (six pucks too). Engagement is great, they hold plenty of tq (unless you like to launch the car all day). In the 18yrs I've used them, I've never had high-RPM lockout though I admit I don't drag race the car, so I never have to do any super-quick-fast-shifterin'. That and I usually shift the car around 7000-7500RPM because it doesn't make power past that, anyway.
TOB released, my tranny jack was in the way so I put the transmission mount back on to hold it while I released the TOB. Tranny jack is under the tranny again.
Great to hear all these reviews, Ill be putting in an order on an ACT HDSS soon! However, how do you all support the block as you pull the trans out? Evomoto says a block of wood on a jack, but where specifically? Supporting the engine via the oil pan or the corners seems sketchy to me. I need to remove the pan anyway. I could probably position my hoist so it could hold it, but that would also be kind of sketchy.
Any feedback is appreciated, this should be my final question until pictures of the damage!
I use my engine hoist on the engine (so I can life up/down as needed) and a jack under the trans with tie-down strap for support, in case it gets a way from me (so far, so good). I lower it to the ground from there. When I put it back in, i hang a come-a-long from a ceiling joist (luckily there is one right over the engine bay) to bring it back up ,then swing it into place.
The trans is out! I ended up using the HF engine support (thanks for the recommendations kaj and letsgetthisdone). However what I thought would give an answer only got more questions. Its being sent out for sure, and I believe the reason why there was no fluid was that about HALF of the case bolts were lose enough for me to take out with my hands alone. I went and disassembled everything, and from what I could see the gears were spotless (however I could just not be seeing something important). I played around with an inspection scope to try to see if I could find anything, and I didnt see any chips or anything. I could not turn the transmission by hand at all though (that doesnt seem like something I should be able to do though). The fact that there was almost no fluid and that the magnetic plug had a lot of metal on it, I dont know if its something that I could see as im not as familiar with transmissions. I will be very busy this upcoming weekend, but I am going to try to take the clutch off too because there may be a problem there (barneyb and Heel2toe both say its the clutch). I dont have pictures of the clutch but it looked pretty ugly compared to the inside of the trans. Let me know what you guys think!
Mini Update: I did fill out the contact form for TRE, what is the usual wait time for how long he gets back to you? Im just trying to figure out some timing with other things, and seeing how much of a chunk of race season I am going to miss.
Okay, so far its been a week and no response from TRE. Depending on how long he takes to get back to his clients I may be able to afford to send him my diff to get Optioned out too . I needed to buy a #6 hex bit socket set because the Exeddy on the car doesnt use the oem bolts. Any tips for breaking the torque on those? does the ACT kit come with new bolts and should I worry about getting a new flywheel? I dont know how I feel about having to reinstall everything by myself since wrestling a transmission back on without mangling everything when alone seems slim, but until then, does anyone have any tips on prepping a car to be a roller? I may see if i can get some bodywork/rust repair done while the trans and maybe diff are out. I have heard it makes sense to put in dummy axles because things can get chewed up when moving them around. everything should be uphill from here. input is appreciated, thanks!
Hex bolts for a flywheel? How unnecessarily difficult LOL
I guess buy the socket and a 1/2" adapter to use it on an impact, then cross your fingers?
Clutches do not come with flywheel bolts, no. They aren't toooooo expensive from Mitsu. I've ordered a set before and don't remember being out too much $$$ for them.
You probably know or have heard all this, but:
Resurfacing the flywheel should be fine unless the machine shop says otherwise, you see damage, etc.
The 5spd isn't too heavy. I was able to bench press mine on, from under the car. The 6spd, on the other hand... Anyway, it's not too bad, just don't ham it on because you don't want to get it on, find out you knocked the collar off.. then have to do it again. LOL. 'Been there. A floor jack also helps line things up if you don't wanna lift it... though, when I did, I had a hard time articulating over the front crossmember/lining things up/etc. Lifting it on was the quickest and easiest.
Upgrade to an ACT Monoloc, if you haven't already. Avoid that whole mess, since you are in there.
If trans and t-case are out, along with axles, just button up the front uprights and roll the car around. I'm 99% sure I did it that way, though it's been a few years. Just use a bungie cord to hold the driveline off the ground.
Hex bolts for a flywheel? How unnecessarily difficult LOL
I guess buy the socket and a 1/2" adapter to use it on an impact, then cross your fingers?
Clutches do not come with flywheel bolts, no. They aren't toooooo expensive from Mitsu. I've ordered a set before and don't remember being out too much $$$ for them.
You probably know or have heard all this, but:
Resurfacing the flywheel should be fine unless the machine shop says otherwise, you see damage, etc.
The 5spd isn't too heavy. I was able to bench press mine on, from under the car. The 6spd, on the other hand... Anyway, it's not too bad, just don't ham it on because you don't want to get it on, find out you knocked the collar off.. then have to do it again. LOL. 'Been there. A floor jack also helps line things up if you don't wanna lift it... though, when I did, I had a hard time articulating over the front crossmember/lining things up/etc. Lifting it on was the quickest and easiest.
Upgrade to an ACT Monoloc, if you haven't already. Avoid that whole mess, since you are in there.
If trans and t-case are out, along with axles, just button up the front uprights and roll the car around. I'm 99% sure I did it that way, though it's been a few years. Just use a bungie cord to hold the driveline off the ground.
Luckily I already have an adapter, and im getting a new impact since the one i currently have is worse than junk lol
There are a lot of local Evo salvage strippers in my area so maybe I can see if I can pick up something from them. If not, I need to order an axle rebuild kit anyway since theres a small tear in the PS boot and im **** about not having fluids leak and i dont want that brown drivetrain grease slinging around my engine bay.
I didnt have an issue moving the 5 speed around, its just I guess i move things around like a turtle. I ended up breaking a MASSIVE sweat because I was doing burpees checking my clearances on everything as i was pulling the trans out, it was probably quite the entertainment.
monoloc is a must-have, a friend of mine who "drove a manual" hit my clutch release stop so many times trying to drive the car. Now im the only one who drives it.
I may just take out the TC and set something up to hold the driveshaft up. I need to see how well the new wheels will fit, I gotta do some cutting, but Maybe I can get these 9.5s to do that thing that minusprevious does and shove them all the way up into my fender well.
Im thinking i may need to have to start a build log thread soon, a pretty lame one, but it will consolidate my questions.
The FSM warns against putting weight on wheel bearings without torqued axle nuts.
As for pressure plate cap screws, I don't think it much matters. The pressure plate would have to shear off dowel pins first.
I'm an old man so the ability to bench press a transmission (If I ever could) is now gone. So I go through an elaborate procedure so I don't have to do any work during transmission installation. I also use an engine hanger so I can position the engine as needed and there is a very specific place the engine needs to be for trouble free transmission stabbing - engine forward with bell housing end well forward - pull the radiator, transmission end of engine down and bottom of engine rotated forward - place the trunk jack between the engine and the subframe. Here is a picture of my setup.
Apr 12, 2018, 11:42 PM
