SS Turbo to manifold Studs
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SS Turbo to manifold Studs
Does anyone know of a stainless steel, stud that will work in the turbo to manifold spot?
I just cringe at the point of putting a swaintech coated JMFAB manifold, on a Swatintech coated FP SS housing... but having those rusty *** studs there.
I currently have the ARP manifold to head kit, and it is WONDERFUL.
Any help is appreciated!
I just cringe at the point of putting a swaintech coated JMFAB manifold, on a Swatintech coated FP SS housing... but having those rusty *** studs there.
I currently have the ARP manifold to head kit, and it is WONDERFUL.
Any help is appreciated!
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Does anyone know of a stainless steel, stud that will work in the turbo to manifold spot?
I just cringe at the point of putting a swaintech coated JMFAB manifold, on a Swatintech coated FP SS housing... but having those rusty *** studs there.
I currently have the ARP manifold to head kit, and it is WONDERFUL.
Any help is appreciated!
I just cringe at the point of putting a swaintech coated JMFAB manifold, on a Swatintech coated FP SS housing... but having those rusty *** studs there.
I currently have the ARP manifold to head kit, and it is WONDERFUL.
Any help is appreciated!
1.) Mitsubishi doesn't give a crap about following industry standard bolt markings (the bolts have a "II" on them), and instead are following their own WWII era proprietary marking.
2.) Those studs/bolts are made out of some crazy awesome exotic material, designed for HEAT.
You do NOT want to replace those with some random stainless steel stud or bolt. Period. Buy new OEM ones.
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Mazda uses stainless steel nuts on their exhausts. There's two ways to remove them, nutcracker or torch. They gall and then being harder than other metal, remove all threads. I suggest a stainless steel stud would do the same.
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I had the OEM studs/bolts looked at by an engineer at my job who does this type of thing for a living. I learned two things:
1.) Mitsubishi doesn't give a crap about following industry standard bolt markings (the bolts have a "II" on them), and instead are following their own WWII era proprietary marking.
2.) Those studs/bolts are made out of some crazy awesome exotic material, designed for HEAT.
You do NOT want to replace those with some random stainless steel stud or bolt. Period. Buy new OEM ones.
1.) Mitsubishi doesn't give a crap about following industry standard bolt markings (the bolts have a "II" on them), and instead are following their own WWII era proprietary marking.
2.) Those studs/bolts are made out of some crazy awesome exotic material, designed for HEAT.
You do NOT want to replace those with some random stainless steel stud or bolt. Period. Buy new OEM ones.
I had the OEM studs/bolts looked at by an engineer at my job who does this type of thing for a living. I learned two things:
1.) Mitsubishi doesn't give a crap about following industry standard bolt markings (the bolts have a "II" on them), and instead are following their own WWII era proprietary marking.
2.) Those studs/bolts are made out of some crazy awesome exotic material, designed for HEAT.
You do NOT want to replace those with some random stainless steel stud or bolt. Period. Buy new OEM ones.
1.) Mitsubishi doesn't give a crap about following industry standard bolt markings (the bolts have a "II" on them), and instead are following their own WWII era proprietary marking.
2.) Those studs/bolts are made out of some crazy awesome exotic material, designed for HEAT.
You do NOT want to replace those with some random stainless steel stud or bolt. Period. Buy new OEM ones.
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edited in.. part nr. MN119784
Last edited by kikiturbo; Apr 18, 2018 at 12:51 AM.
Was just about to say, full race has Inconel turbo to mani hardware. I'm not sure if the EvoX studs are Inconel or stainless, but I can definitely confirm they are not magnetic. None of the OEM turbo hardware is actually; nuts, washers, bolts, and studs.
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do i need 10mm or 8mm studs for a stock twin scroll







