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I’m having problems with the bolts that mate the motor to the trans, specifically the one hidden by the transfer case on the intake side. I have all 5 brand new from STM but the shortest one is too short to reach the threads, the next size up tightens up but runs out of threads like it’s too long. Any help is appreciated
I know it should be, but it just spins. I know at least most of the threads are good bc the longer bolt starts and tightens down. I guess I’m going to have to buy a longer bolt between the 2 lengths.
Based on the picture, looks like your threads could use some cleaning. I would run a thread chaser on the trans side threads and also the bolt. The bolt length for the middle bolts are 50mm, so inbetween size would be 45mm length bolt. That may be difficult to find that size...
Old thread i know but thought i would try here before starting a new thread. I have a question regarding the "hidden" bolt at the rear of the block that bolts to the transmission. Would it hurt if this bolt was left out?
Basically i have a block where the "ear" for this bolt hole is broken off so i have no support on the block to tighten the bolt onto so it wont be doing anything.
Old thread i know but thought i would try here before starting a new thread. I have a question regarding the "hidden" bolt at the rear of the block that bolts to the transmission. Would it hurt if this bolt was left out?
Basically i have a block where the "ear" for this bolt hole is broken off so i have no support on the block to tighten the bolt onto so it wont be doing anything.
Would it be okay to leave it out?
Thanks
It would be risky, but you may just have to try it out.
Some call it the "crank walk" bolt and is known to prevent a severe problem in the DSM world when its installed. It's a long story, but if I were you I would have some kind of bracket/nut welded onto the engine block to give the trans something to bolt to in that area.
Sounds like you have no choice. I'd consider such an assembly a low abuse car. Is that acceptable?
Low abuse? Whats that? Haha. I was going to build up this block as a spare for a circuit car, so low abuse isn't an option i'm afraid.
Originally Posted by Pal215
It would be risky, but you may just have to try it out.
Some call it the "crank walk" bolt and is known to prevent a severe problem in the DSM world when its installed. It's a long story, but if I were you I would have some kind of bracket/nut welded onto the engine block to give the trans something to bolt to in that area.
Thanks for that, It's not worth the risk by the sound of it. I feel like this is going to be my only option then, that or find another block to use. I don't have the piece that broke off either.
Would you recommend bolting it up to a dummy bell housing and then doing the repair like that to get it all lined up?
Low abuse? Whats that? Haha. I was going to build up this block as a spare for a circuit car, so low abuse isn't an option i'm afraid.
Thanks for that, It's not worth the risk by the sound of it. I feel like this is going to be my only option then, that or find another block to use. I don't have the piece that broke off either.
Would you recommend bolting it up to a dummy bell housing and then doing the repair like that to get it all lined up?
I think that's a good way to approach the repair. The two transmission dowels should be installed as well to get the absolute best alignment. Especially Since the repair won't be holding the weight of the trans, it's more so to keep the bell housing and block connected to each other during clutch pulls and returns.
....I would hate to throw out a block just because of a piece like that broke off. I have a scrap 4g64 engine block lying around that I use for experiments. If you want, I can cut that "ear" off of it and if it comes off in on piece, I can ship it over to you for you to weld on.
I think that's a good way to approach the repair. The two transmission dowels should be installed as well to get the absolute best alignment. Especially Since the repair won't be holding the weight of the trans, it's more so to keep the bell housing and block connected to each other during clutch pulls and returns.
....I would hate to throw out a block just because of a piece like that broke off. I have a scrap 4g64 engine block lying around that I use for experiments. If you want, I can cut that "ear" off of it and if it comes off in on piece, I can ship it over to you for you to weld on.
Yep Gotcha. Thanks for the offer, the chances of getting the piece the same would be pretty slim. I'll see what I can do with it and will get back to you if I decide to take you up on your offer.
