Consider using this short block from ER here: https://englishracing.net/collection...00-short-block

 

500whp is capable on a stock block if you can find one cheap. Look for a complete long block to avoid buying a bunch of miscellaneous parts to restore.

 

 

You can always find a head & have it built locally & then combine w/the short. I just threw out the best (ER Engines). You can always have a short block built locally as well

Depends on your level of $$$ commitment

 

All depends on your budget. With a short block, you will still need a head, valve cover, coils, thermostat assembly, intake & exhaust manifolds, throttle body, oil pan, timing components (including oil pump & assembly, water pump, mivec solenoid, turbo, clutch, etc).

 

I'm going through this myself. I have a low mileage chassis. I have engine parts, but I'm leaning towards a new oem short block from dealer because I want to be able to sell it quickly to recover as much as I can.

 

 

The term long and short doesn't describe different blocks, its a description of how complete the motor is. A short block is just the engine block, pistons and crank shaft (usually), and a long block is everything from the oil pan to the valve cover (usually).

The choices you have on block though is either a 4g63 or a 4g64. The evo came with a 2.0L 4g63, you can also use a 2.4L 4g64 block instead. The 4g63 is unique to evo's in the U.S. because of the way its mounted in the engine bay. The 4g64 are more abundant and so usually the cheaper route if you need to replace the block. It's not exactly a straight swap though, there are some things you have to do to make everything work, such as adjustable cam gears because of the deck height differences between the blocks. There is tons of info on doing that kind of swap though so you can do your research.

 

Our good friend 2006EvoIXer noted his preference is a Mitsu short block where i recommended a built block from ER.

The diff is w/the Mitsu short block you are getting a new OEM machined / assembled stock block capable of a <500WHP setup and with balance shafts.

With the ER block, youre getting a machined / reworked, used stock block, loaded w/higher performing components (crank, pistons, bearings), capable of WHP north of 600WHP (no balance shafts)

 

apparently reading comprehension isn't my thing today.

 

No, i think your comment was good as well. We are not really sure what the OP meant. Ive always said, "the written word is not always understood"
Its very possible he didnt know the terms (short vs long block)

 

I went with an OEM shortblock because my desired power levels are modest. I'll never do more than 500whp, probably not even 450whp. I wanted my engine to go another 130k miles without having to mess with it. OEM fits, works, and doesn't need anything special. I just do oil changes. And yes: I could have had a short block built for the same price I paid for OEM, but longevity was my #1 priority.
If you are wanting high WHP and especially torque, you will have to get an engine built.
I'd suggest being realistic about your goals and plan accordingly.

 

Long block is going to run you from $6k+ (OEM) to $12k+ (built aftermarket)

Not to mention intake/exhaust manifold and all the other bits that don't come on them.

 

Well said Jason!