Hi there,

I'm new here so first off, nice to meet you all.

​​​​​​I have a Evo 5 GSR running a few minor bolt ons. Current specs are JMF exhaust Manifold,
3" Turbo Knuckle,
Blitz downpipe,
Blitz Nur spec
Walbro 255
Completely standard engine. Mapped running 360hp before it was pulled from the car.

I really just wanted a list of everything I've got to do in order for the engine to be able to put down up to 450 at the wheels reliably. Main uses for the car will be fast road and track.

Please also bear in mind that I am 19 years old so my budget is fairly limited unfortunately.

Any help will be much appreciated

​​​

 

Hey, Welcome / Thanks for joining us

Im not the best engine mod guy, but sounds like you will need at least the following:

• Larger turbo
• Larger injectors
• 3 port boost solenoid
• Cams (many of us run GSC S2's)
• What kind of fuel do you have avail in England? (here in the US we have 85% ethanol which is a huge help in achieving mid 400whp)

Cheers,

 

If your evo 5 is the same engine as U.S. evo 8. If it is, then we need to know your fuel options there. If you have access to ethanol fuel (60% or more) then you can reach 450whp with small frame HTA71 or TD05 billet 20G turbos. If you only have access to gas like our 91 octane, then you will need at least a turbo like a FP Red and up. If you have access to gas like 93 octane, then a FP Green could get you there with an aggressive tune. Being on a budget, make sure you do your homework before buying anything.
You will need a lower intercooler pipe, 3 port boost controller, cams/valve springs/retainers, and larger injectors. What size injectors will depend on your fuel. And if you don't have ethanol, then you will need a bigger intercooler too.

 

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year Don

 

Hope you had an excellent Christmas Joe!
Happy New Year!

 

Thanks all for your suggestions. How would I be able to find out if it's the same as a US Evo 8? It has T3 stamped into the side of thet block if that means anything? I could get some part numbers off the rods as the sump is currently off the engine.

As for fuel over here, the car was mapped on the Dyno to the best fuel available here and that is Shell V-Power which is 99 Octane.

I've read up before though that it isn't advisable to go over 400hp and 350flb of torque at the wheels with a standard 5 engine.

I believe it's already got 560cc injectors in it.

The car also already has a HKS 3 Port boost controller switchable between 1.3 and 1.55 bar of boost

 

Well, the 99 octane fuel w/certainly help but you are still missing :

• Larger turbo (a lot of us are running the HTA71)
• You will need larger injectors (1200cc min)
• Cams, springs & ARP head studs

WHP is a subjective value as there are a no. of diff dyno machines that pull their no.s in a diff manner (Mustang vs Dynoject vs Dynopack)

I would recommend to keep your WHP under 450 using Dynojet no.s / Keep boost under 26 psi)

 

Are they really capable of up to 450 on stock bottom end? So I could get there with only supporting mods?

 

HP doesn't really matter, only torque. 350wtq at 7500rpm is 499whp. So 450whp would be perfectly safe.

Your 99 octane fuel is most likely 99mon, so it's more would be more like a US 94-95 octane (RON) fuel.

Easy button will be 1100cc-1200cc injector's, mod the walbro 255 by punching the relief valve. Do the hi/lo voltage rewire that can be found on these forums, and probably an FP red (MHI hot side preferred). You can get FP stuff through Owens Developments in the UK. If this doesn't hit your goal, next step would be cam shafts, something in the "272" family. GSC S2's or Kelford 272's, both with appropriate valve springs and retainers, are preferred.

 

Sure, but as Sean noted, the torque is the most important factor. Some have noted that the max torque on a stock block should be held in the low 400's (DJ no.s) (let the WHP no.s figure themselves out). My figures were 459 whp / 407 tq on a DynaPak system.

We get there by using E85. Not sure your gas will get you there

 

I did some quick glancing around and it seems the rod's and pistons aren't quite as strong in the Evo 5 engine as they are in the 8/9 engine. Best to keep torque reasonable than to push it, since the OP is on a budget..

 

So aslong as I keep the torque below on or below 350flb at the wheels whatever power it makes is a bonus. I don't wanna number grab. It will get what it gets.

Yeah 99Ron is the best stuff we get from the pumps over here. I could invest in some 108Ron but that gets expensive. I could also purchase E85 from some other places too but it's also expensive here too and not available from the pumps. Also, a flex fuel system wouldn't be too happy with standard ECU I don't think.

So if I was to bolt on a TD06-20G, or a FP, a set of cams and 1000cc injectors and a good day at the dyno, I'd be set for the power i wanted to push then? Plus I should be fine on stock bottom end for now. I was also thinking about replacing the rod bolts with ARP replacements whilst the sumps off. Wise idea?

 

There is a wide range of TD06 20G combinations. Look at them and compare carefully. GL!

 

I was looking at a SL2 because it has a slightly smaller turbine wheel which would be better for spool I guess

 

If the fuel you have is 99RON, you don't need to go as big as an FP red then. A 71hta or some quality 20G variant "might" do it. You'll most likely need an electronic boost controller to control the boost spike down low while holding boost out the top. Cams will only help of course. It doesn't hurt to select a turbo and see what it makes, then get cams if you want more. A good 272 cam will pick up 20-30whp on a 71hta.

I would not bother with ARP rod bolts. Rod bolts are for RPM keep the RPM in check and you'll be good to go.