Hello guys. On stock block if you open the cylinder head to change the head bolts what gasket you should replace? the oem or anything after market? Its for an evo ix. i think the oem thickness is 1.20mm? Thanks

 

You're wasting your time installing head studs with stock connecting rods in it. A tune that will keep the rods inside won't lift the head either.

But, to answer your question, yes, just use an OEM gasket. And get the head resurfaced.

 

Well i am planning to change valve springs retainers etc thats why some said to open the cylinder head. Some said to change them with without getting out the head. Is this any problem? To change them like this

 

It's pretty easy to valve springs and retainers without pulling the head. I've done several. You use compressed air or the rope method to hold the valve in place, works very well. Theres a few DIY threads on it. This is the tool to use..

https://www.euroexportinc.com/mitsub...ng-compressor/

 

so its better for me not to open the cylinder head right? i ll change only valve springs and retainers with air!! i ll follow your advice <3

 

That's my recommendation, yes

 

Just changed valve springs and retainers with head still on a couple of days ago without using air or rope. Valves won't fall on cylinders 1 and 4 on tdc. Just rotate engine to do cylinders 2 and 3.

 

I feel this is safest way for first timers. This is what I did because if any valve falls in, then you will have to remove the head. Drawback with this is it is more work and will need timing to be reset unless you mark your timing belt and each sprocket to take away any guess work (crank pulley always seen to be off by 1/2 tooth, which is VERY annoying!!).

 

There's marks for all the pulleys. No need to mark the belt to the pulley. Just have to set the crank back a smidge to account for the tensioner taking up slack.