OEM Evo8 water pump lifespan (when did yours fail?)
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern Virginia
OEM Evo8 water pump lifespan (when did yours fail?)
I'm doing a timing belt job on my 26k mile 2004 Evo. I'm having my doubts about pulling the water pump off and fixing what's not broken. I'm afraid to create a new problem when mine is working fine and not leaking. My car is garaged and corrosion is not an issue. Should I keep my new OEM pump on the shelf for now and fix it when the original one starts leaking? I'm leaning in that direction, particularly since I do my own work.
If you know, at what mileage and age (years) did your original water pump fail (the one that came with the car, not a replacement)?
Thanks!
Rich
If you know, at what mileage and age (years) did your original water pump fail (the one that came with the car, not a replacement)?
Thanks!
Rich
On any car I do a timing belt on, I swap the water pump. You are in there, it only takes an extra 5mins. Due to this, I've never had a water pump failure. Getting towed, having to pull the timing belt AGAIN, and doing the repair is far too much work for me, considering I was about six bolts away from doing it in the first place.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,606
Likes: 98
From: Northern Virginia
On any car I do a timing belt on, I swap the water pump. You are in there, it only takes an extra 5mins. Due to this, I've never had a water pump failure. Getting towed, having to pull the timing belt AGAIN, and doing the repair is far too much work for me, considering I was about six bolts away from doing it in the first place.
I replaced the original at 60k, and the second at 120k. They never failed, or leaked, but I was in there doing the belt, so why not. The first replacement was a GMB, and the second was a gates. I have 40k on the gates now. Daily driven spiritedly, at 160k.
Originally Posted by kaj
On any car I do a timing belt on, I swap the water pump. You are in there, it only takes an extra 5mins. Due to this, I've never had a water pump failure. Getting towed, having to pull the timing belt AGAIN, and doing the repair is far too much work for me, considering I was about six bolts away from doing it in the first place.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern Virginia


I replaced mine with an OEM pump at 118k miles with my second t belt change. That was in 2017 the car has 122k miles now no issues. It is no longer a daily since 2017.
The pump wasnt leaking, just changed it as a precaution.
I would change it along with all the pulleys simply to have everything in there fresh.
The pump wasnt leaking, just changed it as a precaution.
I would change it along with all the pulleys simply to have everything in there fresh.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,606
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From: Northern Virginia
If I've drained the radiator, pulled the lower radiator hose and removed the water pump, is the system drained enough to add new coolant (which may be a different brand than what's in there)? Or do you need to pull that really hard to reach block plug by the oil pressure sender?
If I've drained the radiator, pulled the lower radiator hose and removed the water pump, is the system drained enough to add new coolant (which may be a different brand than what's in there)? Or do you need to pull that really hard to reach block plug by the oil pressure sender?
If I've drained the radiator, pulled the lower radiator hose and removed the water pump, is the system drained enough to add new coolant (which may be a different brand than what's in there)? Or do you need to pull that really hard to reach block plug by the oil pressure sender?
I would say the Ph level of the water/coolant is more important than what water you use to fill it with. Yes, it's something probably not one person on here checks but makes perfect sense if you know the reasoning behind it.










