When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys I've got my engine torn down and when I was doing and inspection I found a few things.
first off the rods have been balanced but one in particular looks pretty odd. There is damage intruding into the rod bolt area. Should I just file it off to clearance it?
next the piston coating is all but gone on all pistons. The cylinders have light vertical wear but i cannot feel them with my nail. What I can feel is the odd pitting in the cylinders.
piston #1 also has some "hammer" type dents on the rod side by the rod bolt.(not to concerned) also #1 piston has a nick on the top side of the piston.
And now to the head surface and gasket. It doesn't appear to have lifted the head and the gasket seams ok but why does the head side of the gasket look like new and half of the block side have a dirty coolant look to it?
Thank you just in advance for all the help. Nick on piston Block side gasket half dirty half clean Head side of gasket Cyl #4 Cyl#3 Cyl#2 Cyl#1 No more piston coating No coating Shaving damage Shaving damage (right untouched)(left damage) Rod balance shave
Also main bearings are trashed one in particular has a huge score mark. The crank is a Manley built the journal that had the scored bearing has a little scratch but I can only feel it with my nail on half of the journal.
oh my..what happened to the main bearings? Its as if the engine ran with no oil at all..how many miles on the build? Who built the engine? Can you give more details as to how the bearings damaged to that extent? Confused on the rod damage aswel..
I bought the car about a year and a half ago and have only maybe 1k miles on it. When I bought it the story was it only had 2k on the build. It is a boostin performance short block 2.0. LR. Boostin head. I was assembled by the old owner. I know he took it to the track and dragged it just by the picks I found of it. He traded to the dealer in Minnesota and thats who I bought it from. I dont think it ever ran dry? Maybe oil thickness played a part? I have not had time to measure old clearances yet. But I will just so I can see what boostin does on there builds. I would like to hone and reuse pistons and new rings? But I'll have to see that the machine shop says about the cylinders. With one quick PTW measurement it is already at 004". The engine was at 650hp and turning to almost 9k. Can I hone and then get the pistons coated to bring the PTW clearances back into spec?
Burning oil, but that was from the valve seals. The main reason was seeing bearing material in the oil. I never had a blow by issue. Catch can was always dry with 2 -10 from the valve cover. Does anyone have an explanation for the pitting on the cylinder walls?
I bought the car about a year and a half ago and have only maybe 1k miles on it. When I bought it the story was it only had 2k on the build. It is a boostin performance short block 2.0. LR. Boostin head. I was assembled by the old owner. I know he took it to the track and dragged it just by the picks I found of it. He traded to the dealer in Minnesota and thats who I bought it from. I dont think it ever ran dry? Maybe oil thickness played a part? I have not had time to measure old clearances yet. But I will just so I can see what boostin does on there builds. I would like to hone and reuse pistons and new rings? But I'll have to see that the machine shop says about the cylinders. With one quick PTW measurement it is already at 004". The engine was at 650hp and turning to almost 9k. Can I hone and then get the pistons coated to bring the PTW clearances back into spec?
Where are you measuring that PTW clearance? And what did the rod hit?
I measured the piston skirt with a micrometer. Then zeroed my bore gauge to that an then measured the cylinder. I measured about a third down in the cylinder. That was only a super fast measurement when I get some time im going to double and triple check all the old clearances. And as for the rod damage i have no damn clue. The rods were definitely balanced and shaved nicely but that one looks like it was hacked or it did hit something but I've got no clue and haven't found any evidence yet.
Did you measure the skirt about 1/2 inch from bottom? One of your rod bolt hole looks like it is already cracked or split. One rod looks slightly bent. I would spend the money for new rods. And new pistons since block may need to be honed to next size (hard to see your cylinder wall pictures). Pay a competent machine shop to rebuild. Hopefully block and crank are reusable. Good luck.
That rod hit something, and I'd be weary of running it without at least have a machine shop clean it up and polish away those sharp edges to prevent cracks from forming. I don't see any crakcs or bends, and bending a manley turbo tuff Ibeam really doesn't happen.
The pistons are wiseco 1400HD, Wiseco states to measure the piston skirt 1.3" below the oil ring land. On our piston, that is usually just the bottom of the skirt.
If PTW is already 4 thou, a good hone to clean the cylinders up will take ~1 thou off, so you'll end up around 5 thou ptw. Which isn't the end of the world except that is where you may start to get some piston noise on really cold starts. You need to measure roundness and taper to gauge if the cylinder can just be cleaned up/honed or if it needs bored to the next size to get a good fresh finish. To do this you can take it to your machine shop and they can try a minimal hone and see how it looks, and tell you its good and you can order the same size pistons, or they'll tell you it needs bored out and to get the next size up pistons.
Hopefully tonight ill get some time to measure cylinders for taper and out of round. I do have a torque plate coming on Thursday. Ill measure again once I get it to get a better idea of what it really is. Of course I hope to hone and reuse but... im also going to do what is right.
Im sure when boostin built the block it was line honed do you think it would need it again? If it truly only has about 3k miles on it?
The damaged (hammered) (fubr) rod still has me scratching my head??
That coating typically wears off in few thousands miles. Its there to reduce wear on initial (brand new engine) start up when there isn't much oil on the cylinder walls.