Balance shaft removal
I have to say I think you lost me, here.
Evolved Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,110
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From: Croatia
2) replace front balance shaft with a full "race" shaft. This eliminates the possibly issue the stubby shaft could have on wearing out your oil pump prematurely.
You will need the engine out of the car to do this.
You will need the engine out of the car to do this.
No, nobody has EVER removed balance shafts from a 4G63. Are you serious with this question?
So why are you even asking the question?
This bull**** needs to be locked because this topic has been beaten to ****ing death about as long as the 4G63 has been around. The factual information is EVERYWHERE.
SEARCH.
So why are you even asking the question?
SEARCH.
The short answer to why complete removal of balance shafts is not recommended/debated:
because Mitsubishi put the balance shafts in for a reason. And its not just because of creature comfort.
Read here for more details/opinions:
https://www.jackstransmissions.com/b...balance-shafts
The short answer to just why just removing the balance belt is not recommended:
Because you have 2 weighted balance shafts in your engine. Removing the balance shaft belt ONLY stops one balance shaft from spinning. That means the other balance shaft(that continues to run off the timing belt) is still spinning its weight around, but their is no longer another balance shaft to counter its weight.
Yes, and deleting it has been done. But you need to know just removing the balance shaft belt is not the same as a full delete, or a short stub install.
Correct. There are a lot of options and people have been debating for years on which one is correct.
Again the issue with ONLY removing the balance shaft belt is it ONLY stops 1 balance shaft from spinning. The second balance shaft that also runs your oil pump will continue to spin since it runs off of the timing belt (not the balance shaft belt).
So to your original question, does the engine still run with ONLY removing the balance shaft belt? Yes, yes it does. Is it the correct way to do it, no. Has my evo been this way for over 3000 miles? Yes, yes it has.
IMO, the proper way to remove balance shafts is:
1) remove rear shaft (&balance belt) completely. Have balance shaft bearing removed and then re-installed to block oiling passage that goes to rear balance shaft.
2) replace front balance shaft with a full "race" shaft. This eliminates the possibly issue the stubby shaft could have on wearing out your oil pump prematurely.
You will need the engine out of the car to do this.
because Mitsubishi put the balance shafts in for a reason. And its not just because of creature comfort.
Read here for more details/opinions:
https://www.jackstransmissions.com/b...balance-shafts
The short answer to just why just removing the balance belt is not recommended:
Because you have 2 weighted balance shafts in your engine. Removing the balance shaft belt ONLY stops one balance shaft from spinning. That means the other balance shaft(that continues to run off the timing belt) is still spinning its weight around, but their is no longer another balance shaft to counter its weight.
Yes, and deleting it has been done. But you need to know just removing the balance shaft belt is not the same as a full delete, or a short stub install.
Correct. There are a lot of options and people have been debating for years on which one is correct.
Again the issue with ONLY removing the balance shaft belt is it ONLY stops 1 balance shaft from spinning. The second balance shaft that also runs your oil pump will continue to spin since it runs off of the timing belt (not the balance shaft belt).
So to your original question, does the engine still run with ONLY removing the balance shaft belt? Yes, yes it does. Is it the correct way to do it, no. Has my evo been this way for over 3000 miles? Yes, yes it has.
IMO, the proper way to remove balance shafts is:
1) remove rear shaft (&balance belt) completely. Have balance shaft bearing removed and then re-installed to block oiling passage that goes to rear balance shaft.
2) replace front balance shaft with a full "race" shaft. This eliminates the possibly issue the stubby shaft could have on wearing out your oil pump prematurely.
You will need the engine out of the car to do this.
Leaving the rear shaft in place with no belt is actually better than rolling the bearings if you're not going to do any oil pump mods (ER gear and/or messing with the bypass). It keeps oil pressure closer to stock. This must be done with installing the stub shaft, you can't leave the front shaft in and spinning if the rear shaft isn't spinning.
The front stub shaft is an OEM piece and DOES NOT cause premature oil pump wear, this old/incorrect internet lore. Our oil pumps wear due to oil starvation/aeration during high G events, that is it.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 108
Likes: 5
From: North Island
Stop sharing the Jack Trans thing. It's flat out simply ****ing wrong.
Leaving the rear shaft in place with no belt is actually better than rolling the bearings if you're not going to do any oil pump mods (ER gear and/or messing with the bypass). It keeps oil pressure closer to stock. This must be done with installing the stub shaft, you can't leave the front shaft in and spinning if the rear shaft isn't spinning.
The front stub shaft is an OEM piece and DOES NOT cause premature oil pump wear, this old/incorrect internet lore. Our oil pumps wear due to oil starvation/aeration during high G events, that is it.
Leaving the rear shaft in place with no belt is actually better than rolling the bearings if you're not going to do any oil pump mods (ER gear and/or messing with the bypass). It keeps oil pressure closer to stock. This must be done with installing the stub shaft, you can't leave the front shaft in and spinning if the rear shaft isn't spinning.
The front stub shaft is an OEM piece and DOES NOT cause premature oil pump wear, this old/incorrect internet lore. Our oil pumps wear due to oil starvation/aeration during high G events, that is it.
I understand alright. I happen to work at a Ford dealership with Mitsubishi attached to the company. My point is if the belt is there or not and the full shaft is there or half a shaft won't make a blind bit of difference. I think at best there may be a slight bit of vibration. As long as the oil pump is rotating and making pressure I don't care . I don't think the thread should be locked. It's an open debate and I also think some people are listening to pub talk rather than factual information
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