When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
center diff, under the engine. i think R&P is $900 + the build/upgrades/s&h etc but depending on how much got in between the teeth, the housing parts might be out of spec and add to the total. you'll probably want the uprated R&P from shep/TRE
you need to drain the oil first (measure how much you had left) and you might see some shrapnel there, but the big chunks will end up by the inspection plate.
center diff, under the engine. i think R&P is $900 + the build/upgrades/s&h etc but depending on how much got in between the teeth, the housing parts might be out of spec and add to the total. you'll probably want the uprated R&P from shep/TRE
you need to drain the oil first (measure how much you had left) and you might see some shrapnel there, but the big chunks will end up by the inspection plate.
I’ve read that diaqueen is the only oil that should be used. Had a quick look on eBay and there seems to be quite a few variations of it. Ideally needs to be available in the uk, if anybody knows where I can get it from?
Something sounds locked up for sure. Cant be too tough to dis-connect the driveline to the rear diff just to eliminate the rear diff as the problem (unless you somehow know its either TC or the Trans)
hmm are you sure handbrake is disengaged? might as well disconnect the driveshaft by the rear diff and see if you can spin the wheels. make sure you mark the flanges
hmm are you sure handbrake is disengaged? might as well disconnect the driveshaft by the rear diff and see if you can spin the wheels. make sure you mark the flanges
I removed both rear discs and the handbrake mechanism appears all in order. The wheels do rotate when in the air, with difficulty. But when on the ground nothing. So assume from that it can’t be the handbrake. .
ok i was checking, trying to figure out that sound in the video. my rear diff has a clunk when turning the wheels manually - i think thats normal. wonder if its your hub bearings - thats loaded when the car is on the ground. I have no experience with bad hub bearings tho.
I went thru the same chasing last year. (before inspecting my front diff I was so sure i feel stoppage in the rear) while under the car I could turn my driveshaft up to the point of stoppage. but still couldnt figure out if its in the front or rear, so I disconnected the rear flange. tested no stoppage from the rear. spun the rest of the driveshaft (you can also remove the front section) and got the stoppage. Maybe you can spin and inspect every tooth of your front R&P if thats the case for you
Whenever a drivetrain issue arises, it's also good to drain and inspect all drivetrain fluids. Since our cars are AWD, it's hard to diagnose the problem quickly due to the rear diff being coupled to the transfer case. It would be odd, but not impossible if your rear differential is locked up due to a failed ring/pinion.