I'm going to start off with saying that I have had this car for a little over a month now and I do my best to research the problems and issues that will be listed below, I am newish to gas vehicles as I have usually owned diesel trucks but I traded one for this car so here we are. I'm your basic DIY mechanic I can pretty much do anything myself if I know what the issue is.

This is going to be a long post, but I will try to summarize before I get to in depth.

Guy I got the car from lied to me about a lot of stuff that was done. He sent me a ton of pictures and info on what was done and then before we traded he took off what he could and put it back to stock, so I'm slowly working on figuring out what is done to the car. I do believe the engine its self is good but everything else sucks and im slowly trying to restore this car to a nice condition.

The car will not idle on its own when I start it I have to how the throttle pedal down a little bit to even get it start, but as long as I'm holding throttle a little bit it will run good. Sometimes it will hold an idle and ill let it run for a few minutes but as it gets warmer it'll start smoking quite a bit and if I touch the throttle pedal itll no longer hold idle when its warm.

To me it seems like a tune issue on the cold start but when its warmed up I don't understand why it cant hold an idle or even start back up until it cools down a bit.

AFRs at idle are 10.5ish which I know is rich and I'm working with a tuner (switching tuners soon) but idk if that is the only issue.

I have let the car idle from cold start to 185 degrees 3 times and drove it maybe 12 miles and the fresh oil smells like gas and is black already.

guy i got it from says car has 4k miles on this built motor but he has been driving it around without a tune for that long so I am really hoping he didn't permently damage the engine and its something ill be able to fix .

Plugs are gapped at .22 and are brand new, I actually have 3 sets of new plugs, 2 NGK br7exs and 1 of br8exs I thing that is the part number. Ill change them out cause after a little bit they get wet and foul out and the car starts to miss and smoke a lot.

zero codes on evocan

I'm just not sure where to go from here, just trying to enjoy this car but its becoming a big pain because nothing seems to help


2.2 stroker
weisco hd pistons .20 oversized
turbo tuff rods
tomei forged stroker crank
acl race bearings
282 bc cam
dual valve springs
oem bc valve
adjustable gears
dual walbro 450 fuel pump
fuel lab manual fuel pressure reg.
turbo smart race bov
ets 3.5 fmic
act stage 3 clutch
invidia turbo back exhaust
shep trans with carbon synchros
FIC 2150's
Skunk 2 68mm TB
JDC COP kit

 

Post up pics of engine bay so the really smart guys have as much info as possible. They can see things.

 

sounds like a tune issue so work with the new tuner to sort out AFR at idle as a start. What fuel and I assume SD?

 

Don't you hate it when the previous owner lies? What are your plans with the car: A street car or a track car?

The tune is bad and there are a few items listed that aren't going to make it any easier to fix. Depending on what you want to do with the car, you may want to ditch those items before you get retuned. It will lead to a smoother and more reliable driving experience. For example, FIC2150s are great injectors for high power builds and can be dialed in with the right tune, but don't have the best cold drive and cold start manners. Size your injectors for your power goals. The 282 bc cams are a little too big for the stock turbo (I don't see an aftermarket turbo listed in your mod list). You don't need the dual walbro 450 setup anymore either because a single walbro 525lph will support up to 700whp if wired correctly.

My suggestion for today is to check the timing marks first on the crank and cam gears to verify that your engine is timed properly, get yourself a 3 port bcs, and have the car retuned on SD so that it idles and cruises at 14.7 AFR again. 11.4 AFR drives well in boost. You might also want to check to see if your BISS screw is adjusted incorrectly as well. However, i'm not sure if the Skunk2 throttle body works the same way. After that you can at least use the car properly and decide on what else you need to change.

 

Ill start off with it is going to be a street car but not a daily driver.

I did manage to find my major issue tho, these cam gears were timed for a dsm and not evo so it took a bit but I was finally able to get it all timed right and the thing runs and idles pretty good, not perfect but soooo much better than it was, I no longer have to help it idle and no more smokey idle.

I am working on getting smaller injectors as I have no reason to have anything this big, the turbo isnt a stock turbo but also isnt a big turbo. its a Tomei arms m7960