It does have a header on it, MAP I believe. I agree I love the sound of the stock/FP manifold. Yes SS housing in the video.

Hey don't blame ya! Loved Jay's teardown video. I think that would be an awesome swap, the new Xona Rotor stuff looks extremely promising. If I remember correctly, Dan's old Evo he bumped his 9569s to the 10569s. Granted there's an updated line XRC7269s now but could you maybe compare his dyno graph of the 10569s with your OG Super 99 graph and get a ballpark idea of what it'll give you? I mean one way to look at it, it's getting a new engine after an amazing run of over 15 years pushed hard.. if there is a time to try an updated version of it's og counterpart.. now would be it! Worst case scenario, you pull/sell the Xona and throw the 99 back on

 

How did your dyno day go for you man?
I'm always open to suggestions. That's where I'm at, now that my balance shaft bearing recently graced my engine's oiling system with more ice than Paul Wall I wanna get this right the first time. All of it. Truthfully I'm more excited than bummed, get to build it sooner. Would I be making a mistake using a stock ported/coated mani instead of an FP mani? I was gonna keep the stock intake and exhaust manifold to lean towards quicker spool and sacrifice a little top end.
I'm gonna list my entire parts list in a separate post on the thread and anyone feel free to chime in and give your input!

 

That's awesome gives ya a solid idea then! I was pumped to finally find a uhf red vid lol.

 

Dyno Day was fine figured it would make a little more but 550HP and 450TRQ i think. That's is about all the turbo has in it. I'm on a stock ported exhaust and intake manifold So down the road i might go to a FP manifold and maybe a true 3" down pipe as i have been told the Buschur down pipe is not a true 3". Its more about making it all work more efficient then making much more power.

 

What dyno where you on?
I would agree that seems a tad on the low side for a black?

What other mods are you working with? I have a red, stock un-ported exhaust and intake manifolds and make a touch more but its obviously dyno dependent.

 

Mustang dyno. Said he made like 570 with a bunch of Timing but toned it back some.

 

Mustang is all I needed to hear lol. Thats pretty solid then.

 

I've only used a dynojet. The only way to fudge the numbers is to heat the dyno stack ( corvette shops were caught years back) or take the eddy brake off . Other then that cars will read close to each other coast to coast. We dynoed a supra then sent it 2 hours away and it made within 10 whp-20whp.
Mustang dyno's and others. Adjust it however you want . Many ,many people have done this.
Local guy has an xxx dyno and stock turbo cars were making 430whp for a little while there.

I'd trust a dynojet over another dyno any day if you are comparing numbers. Or what it traps in the 1/4.
Clear example of mustang dyno in action.

 

The shop said it might read from 8 to 10% and some shops say 10-12% less then a Dyno Jet. Like most people say its a tool. Yea 575 would of been cool but its just a number, seems like its solid tune but also not kill so should hold together.
It Just makes you start thinking is a little bigger down pipe or better flowing Exhaust manifold help you gain a little horse power and be more efficient. I don't know when back pressure issue become a thing just start to think about.
Around 550-600 You start thinking okay do you need a bigger intake Manifold. Do you want to do a stand alone and its just a big can of worms.

Thanks for sharing that video pretty crazy what all they can change

 

Yea, the intake and exhaust manifold questions really come down to goals. For example, my setup uses the stock unported intake and exhaust manifolds. I would swap them out and make more up top at the expense of spool.
Its really important to understand what the goal of your build is and how you plan to use it.

I 100% agree that it is a large can of worms as you go down the modding path lol

 

The last thing I would want to do is push the power band right. I heard the FP manifold might shift it a little left but no real concrete proof. Just think if you can make the same power more efficiently that might be better all around.
Just hoping some of this helps the OP.

 

O yea, making efficient power is the goal always.

I can't find the post right now but I saw a back to back test of the uported stock vs the fp when I was sorting out my setup and it moved the curve right which is why I chose what I did. It wasn't a big shift but measurable.

I agree that hopefully this can help OP and whoever else stumbles here looking for options in the future.

 

My friend owns a mustang dyno and we did this when he first got it just to see big discrepancy with numbers, as said, dynojet is the only dyno i care to compare because every other type can be skewed. My favorite is when people take a mainline or mustang number and “calculate” what a dynojet number would be. Thats bs, the only thing you can do is take it to a drag strip and see what a clean run trap speed is, then compare that to the vehicle weight of the car and math that horsepower out.

 

I will add 13% so i can claim 600 HP do not tell me how to live my life. LOL

 

My personal favorite version of this is talking to muscle car guys that quote crank HP when talking about how much their car makes lol.
OOOO we were talking crank, then my 600awhp evo with a 25% driveline loss makes like 750 crank lol. Always really gets them going.