Enjoyable as possible is exactly it. Nudged me back to the ball bearing. Which actuator do you run the 18 or 25psi? Talking to FP the other day they recommend the UHF wheel for more of a max effort build. Very excited to see how it performs in the MHI housing when the motor is built..

That's even more wild. That proves the dud theory..

 

Although I'm going with a stock location setup, at one point I did consider a Xona with an Artec v band manifold. Part of me wonders what that setup would be like. An XRC5557s perhaps.. something in that range of the stock location sizes. Who knows, maybe a handful of years in the future if I get the itch to switch it up. I'm not sure if the Artec mani would sound similar to the stock mani or not.. it is cast but it looks more of an equal length design. The manifolds seem to work great can't knock them regardless!

 

i wanted to do the artec deal but i couldnt justify the cost vs just doing an proven FP manifold.

 

I hear you on that. I found a stock ported manifold on marketplace for 200 bucks

 

A dumb as this sound at this point the only way i would change manfoids is one if a FP one falls on my lap for say $100 bucks or I did like a stock turbo Forward facing kit.

 

I don't think that's dumb at all. Stock manifold from what I've been told is plenty good for street car power goals. Schuhie convinced me to snag a stock ported. Not that the FP is super expensive or anything but will see a little more response on the stock ported vs the FP manifold. Got to save a few bucks there. I was trying to find some good threads on the comparison between the two manifolds.

 

the FP manifold is $325 .. it’s a no brainer for s bump or if your stock manifold has to come off for any reason

 

It was mentioned earlier in the thread briefly, but being that you're concerned with response MIVEC vs non MIVEC is a considerable factor. A MIVEC setup will spool the same turbo more than a few hundred RPM faster. If you're using Abacus' build as a reference point it's a good thing to keep in mind. It's a shame that MIVEC parts are so hard to come by nowadays and when you can find them people want an arm and a leg.

If you're sticking with a non MIVEC setup then having the extra displacement with a 94mm or 100mm crank will help the engine spool so would definitely recommend spending the money on a crank while you're building the engine. Manley stopped making forged 100mm cranks a couple of years ago because of how high their failure rate was, but I believe Eagle still makes a forged 100mm crank and Callies as well. Eagle is the only option for a 94mm forged crank, everyone else is billet. Forged cranks are going to be plenty strong for your needs and considerably less money than a billet crank, but stay away from stock 64 cranks if you end up going the 100mm route.

With your goals I would maybe consider building a new shortblock from a 64 block since the extra deck height will fit the stroker crank without losing much rod ratio. 64 blocks are a good bit less money than 63 blocks so it's not super expensive and then you would still have a good 63 shortblock to sell or save for future use.

As for cams if you already have S1 cams I would recommend sticking with those. You'll gain top end with an S2 but sacrifice a bit of response. About the billet cam issue, 4Gs don't have issue with wiping lobes because the valvetrain is a roller setup, the 2J has flat tappets so the friction profile of the valvetrain is entirely different. The only time people wipe cam lobes in these engines with any cams is if the roller in a rocker arm locks up and stops rotating or the engine is starved of oil. GSC and Kelford have both changed their profiles for S2 and 272s a few times over the years so looking at old data isn't apples to apples with what they both sell today, neither are bad choices and are the top 2 most popular brands for cams.

A green or red both make sense for your goals. For my evo (which is a dedicated track car so not entirely relevant) I have a non MIVEC 2.2 going together running a BB SS UHF green with the goal of a responsive 500hp setup. I love twinscroll stuff and that would be my choice for a street car but for track use the factory turbine housing is a bit of a liability. I went green because of non MIVEC, if I had a MIVEC engine I probably would have gone with a red, after the car is running again I may have a BB UHF red built for larger tracks, but that's a consideration for the future.

 

ths comparison from jb to bb is soooo true, i just experienced it for the first time on my son’s rsx, he had a jb 6262 and i swapped it out for a ball bearing 67/62, the 67 spool SOOOO much quicker even with the bigger comp housing, it’s insane and i will never buy another jb turbo again ever

 

Appreciate you taking the time to type a response like that man. If the mivec was more readily available I would probably venture that route. Maybe if I come across one at the right time but being realistic it would probably be in my best interest to stay non mivec. I'm most certainly using Abacus' car as a reference for my build, have yet to see a better example of a street car with that type of versatility! I'm fully aware it won't be quite the same without mivec, but that's totally okay with me. I'm sure it'll still be a very enjoyable car when the puzzle is complete. (when are they ever finished though lol)

Since coming to the conclusion of making this a one and done deal with no regrets, certainly gonna go with a 94mm crank. I'm about to ask a dumb question here, as I don't know a lot when it comes to engines themselves if I'm being honest. Is there a lot of machining when it comes to doing a bigger crank or stroker setups in general? I ask this as a good friend of mine will be building it for me, very knowledgeable guy who does this for a living and a hobby who I've trusted with my cars for years along with many of my friends. We discussed building it as a 2.0 shortly after buying the car, but that was before me deciding on wanting to do a 2.2 stroker for obvious reasons. The block would be going to a local machine shop that's never let us down in 10 years so far, but none of us have ever done stroker builds so I'm unfamiliar. Moral of the story, would it be a lot more work to do a 2.2 stroker over a standard 2.0 build? I know there's different pistons and rods as well just wasn't sure if doing a stroker means having to send the block to big name shops because special machining or something needs done over stock displacement motor builds. I hope that makes sense haha. Asking on here because I won't see him for another couple weeks. I will have to do some research on the 64 blocks. I'd also like to state for the record I'm gonna acquire a spare long block for this build so we can swap it on a weekend as opposed to being down for a few months. I'd like to have the current long block as a spare.

I'm definitely geared towards response, but I don't need it to be the absolute fastest spooling setup in the world. Trying to find as perfect of a balance as I can with spool but having it live a nice power band as well. So one area I don't mind losing a tiny bit of response is bumping the cams to a Kelford 272 or S2. I'd like to think using a stock ported manifold over the FP manifold will maybe cancel that out. But maybe it won't. Happy to hear the Kelfords are a good choice I'd really like to try them. Didn't know the reason on the lobe rounding issue on the JZ but thanks for the info.

I can understand the reasoning on needing more lung capacity with the turbo on track builds. Don't be afraid to try the UHF Red down the road but enjoy the UHF Green!

 

I'm happy to hear someone else can vouch on this!

 

Haha yea, I'd love a MIVEC setup too but the expense over a non MIVEC is hard to justify and getting spares would be a huge pain in the ***. MIVEC is definitely not a necessity for having a well driving, fast and enjoyable car!

I've not seen any 94mm setups that required extra machining. I know on the 63 block some 100mm setups (depending on the rods used) the block needs to be clearanced for the rods. Not sure if the 64 block requires the same clearance work as a 63 block with wide rods.

With a 94mm crank there's no extra machine work over an 88mm crank. Just need to have the right compression height pistons and correct length rods. It assembles the same as a 2.0L would.

This is a breakdown of what compression height pistons are needed depending on which block, crank stroke and rod length are used (comp height is in inches as that's how most manufacturers publish it):




Recommend not going any lower than 1.130" compression height as the 1.012" setups put the wrist pin through the oil ring groove and the oil scraper is much more easily destabilized without that support (there is a rail support under the scraper but it doesn't perform the same as having piston material there) and when it becomes destabilized the engine is way more prone to consuming oil. Also, there are very few options for 153mm rods, it's an oddball size.

 

Awesome I was hoping to hear that! I'll show this response to my buddy when I'm able to. He'll understand compression height and all that stuff as it's a foreign language to me haha. One last question regarding the forged vs billet crank, the only con to the billet is the price tag correct? From what I've read I'm leaning towards a Callies crank. What brand piston/rod combo do you guys recommend? Wanting to try CP/Carillo if they make the right combo for a 94mm crank setup, never used them before and always wanted to. Seen and heard nothing but great things. Open to whatever brands though.

 

Yea other than price there's no downside to a billet vs a forged crank. Callies is high quality so you won't have any issue with their 94mm billet. As for rods and piston CP and Carrillo are about as good as it gets. Callies makes rods too and all of their stuff is what I would consider pretty high quality. JE and Wiseco are pretty nice for pistons. Manley and Eagle stuff is good for the price but not what I would call premium.

 

Perfecto. Thanks so much for the help dude!