Looking for FP stock location UHF MHi results
A stock rod ratio /crank 2.0 will already go over 10K so it doesn't need a long rod.
Anyone that builds their engine should use a 94mm crank . It just helps everywhere. 100mm crank if its not road raced and kept under 700-800 hp or so.
A longer rod just moves the band to the right. A 94/150 combo is still good for 9200 or so .
The mhi red is still a great choice for a street car. 550-600whp 500-550wtq If you want it on E85. 4000rpm worth of powerband. Its like the stock turbo that we all fell in the love with but much more.
I had an MHI red, then SS (hated it), then back to an mhi red.
If you have a 100mm engine then the fp black mhi pairs well with it. There are other mhi turbo's on the market but the FP clearly spools up quicker and makes power.
Anyone that builds their engine should use a 94mm crank . It just helps everywhere. 100mm crank if its not road raced and kept under 700-800 hp or so.
A longer rod just moves the band to the right. A 94/150 combo is still good for 9200 or so .
The mhi red is still a great choice for a street car. 550-600whp 500-550wtq If you want it on E85. 4000rpm worth of powerband. Its like the stock turbo that we all fell in the love with but much more.
I had an MHI red, then SS (hated it), then back to an mhi red.
If you have a 100mm engine then the fp black mhi pairs well with it. There are other mhi turbo's on the market but the FP clearly spools up quicker and makes power.
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Joined: Feb 2017
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From: CT
A stock rod ratio /crank 2.0 will already go over 10K so it doesn't need a long rod.
Anyone that builds their engine should use a 94mm crank . It just helps everywhere. 100mm crank if its not road raced and kept under 700-800 hp or so.
A longer rod just moves the band to the right. A 94/150 combo is still good for 9200 or so .
The mhi red is still a great choice for a street car. 550-600whp 500-550wtq If you want it on E85. 4000rpm worth of powerband. Its like the stock turbo that we all fell in the love with but much more.
I had an MHI red, then SS (hated it), then back to an mhi red.
If you have a 100mm engine then the fp black mhi pairs well with it. There are other mhi turbo's on the market but the FP clearly spools up quicker and makes power.
Anyone that builds their engine should use a 94mm crank . It just helps everywhere. 100mm crank if its not road raced and kept under 700-800 hp or so.
A longer rod just moves the band to the right. A 94/150 combo is still good for 9200 or so .
The mhi red is still a great choice for a street car. 550-600whp 500-550wtq If you want it on E85. 4000rpm worth of powerband. Its like the stock turbo that we all fell in the love with but much more.
I had an MHI red, then SS (hated it), then back to an mhi red.
If you have a 100mm engine then the fp black mhi pairs well with it. There are other mhi turbo's on the market but the FP clearly spools up quicker and makes power.
The low end of the MHI just makes the car fun. Want to slide it in first or second, no problem. Quick response and gobs of torque at any rpm. I consider it OEM + for these cars .
The SS housing lost all the fun torque below 5000rpm. It starts to run ok by 4500 and pull harder from 5000-8000 . Too lazy to autox or slide the car around at low speeds.
The SS housing lost all the fun torque below 5000rpm. It starts to run ok by 4500 and pull harder from 5000-8000 . Too lazy to autox or slide the car around at low speeds.
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Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 40
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From: PA
A stock rod ratio /crank 2.0 will already go over 10K so it doesn't need a long rod.
Anyone that builds their engine should use a 94mm crank . It just helps everywhere. 100mm crank if its not road raced and kept under 700-800 hp or so.
A longer rod just moves the band to the right. A 94/150 combo is still good for 9200 or so .
The mhi red is still a great choice for a street car. 550-600whp 500-550wtq If you want it on E85. 4000rpm worth of powerband. Its like the stock turbo that we all fell in the love with but much more.
I had an MHI red, then SS (hated it), then back to an mhi red.
If you have a 100mm engine then the fp black mhi pairs well with it. There are other mhi turbo's on the market but the FP clearly spools up quicker and makes power.
Anyone that builds their engine should use a 94mm crank . It just helps everywhere. 100mm crank if its not road raced and kept under 700-800 hp or so.
A longer rod just moves the band to the right. A 94/150 combo is still good for 9200 or so .
The mhi red is still a great choice for a street car. 550-600whp 500-550wtq If you want it on E85. 4000rpm worth of powerband. Its like the stock turbo that we all fell in the love with but much more.
I had an MHI red, then SS (hated it), then back to an mhi red.
If you have a 100mm engine then the fp black mhi pairs well with it. There are other mhi turbo's on the market but the FP clearly spools up quicker and makes power.
Maybe a dumb question, when you slide the car do you cut the wheel and let the boost do it or do you clutch kick it?
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Joined: Jul 2024
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From: PA
Yea I could push an FP Red if I wanted to but i will just run what i got. Put some money into carbon things and just take it outside.
Not that it matters what dyno did you Make 580 on.
To the original Post. Something to think about is drive Trian parts. With the extra TRQ it will be a little harder on trans, t-case, and rear end. People with strokers like to change out the final drive or so I have been told.
Not that it matters what dyno did you Make 580 on.
To the original Post. Something to think about is drive Trian parts. With the extra TRQ it will be a little harder on trans, t-case, and rear end. People with strokers like to change out the final drive or so I have been told.
IF you just turn the wheel and mash the throttle the car will slide a little. Its fun.
Most People will Say TRE is the go to for Trans and T-case builds. I would also talk to Raf at RRT!
Most People will Say TRE is the go to for Trans and T-case builds. I would also talk to Raf at RRT!
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Joined: Jul 2024
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From: PA
Good to know thanks man!
Last edited by kinglloyd69; Apr 16, 2025 at 11:48 AM.
Thanks for the detailed response man much appreciated. For a short time I considered keeping the black and trying an MHI housing but for $900 to do that just didn't seem worth the risk. Would rather just spend the extra and get the Red. I'm pumped to see what the UHF Red MHI will do on a built motor, I'll be posting results when the time comes for sure. Stock block for at least the next year, possibly two. But the data will be there!
Maybe a dumb question, when you slide the car do you cut the wheel and let the boost do it or do you clutch kick it?
Maybe a dumb question, when you slide the car do you cut the wheel and let the boost do it or do you clutch kick it?
The good thing about the green/red is they will spool up hard enough to break the tires loose if you want them to. No clutch kick needed
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Joined: Jul 2024
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From: PA
If you can swing it the BB unit is the way to go. Spools up easier and will deal with high boost better. Any of the 2021+ BB units work well.
The good thing about the green/red is they will spool up hard enough to break the tires loose if you want them to. No clutch kick needed
The good thing about the green/red is they will spool up hard enough to break the tires loose if you want them to. No clutch kick needed
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: WI
Yea I could push an FP Red if I wanted to but i will just run what i got. Put some money into carbon things and just take it outside.
Not that it matters what dyno did you Make 580 on.
To the original Post. Something to think about is drive Trian parts. With the extra TRQ it will be a little harder on trans, t-case, and rear end. People with strokers like to change out the final drive or so I have been told.
Not that it matters what dyno did you Make 580 on.
To the original Post. Something to think about is drive Trian parts. With the extra TRQ it will be a little harder on trans, t-case, and rear end. People with strokers like to change out the final drive or so I have been told.
I didn't spring for the BB and love the JB. For a street car, $1100 goes a long ways for fuel, intercooler, etc lol. If I was trying to be competitive on the track, it would probably be worth it. I think there is a thread in the dyno section where there was back to back testing of a JB and BB FP turbo but can't seem to find it at the moment.
A stock rod ratio /crank 2.0 will already go over 10K so it doesn't need a long rod.
Anyone that builds their engine should use a 94mm crank . It just helps everywhere. 100mm crank if its not road raced and kept under 700-800 hp or so.
A longer rod just moves the band to the right. A 94/150 combo is still good for 9200 or so .
The mhi red is still a great choice for a street car. 550-600whp 500-550wtq If you want it on E85. 4000rpm worth of powerband. Its like the stock turbo that we all fell in the love with but much more.
I had an MHI red, then SS (hated it), then back to an mhi red.
If you have a 100mm engine then the fp black mhi pairs well with it. There are other mhi turbo's on the market but the FP clearly spools up quicker and makes power.
Anyone that builds their engine should use a 94mm crank . It just helps everywhere. 100mm crank if its not road raced and kept under 700-800 hp or so.
A longer rod just moves the band to the right. A 94/150 combo is still good for 9200 or so .
The mhi red is still a great choice for a street car. 550-600whp 500-550wtq If you want it on E85. 4000rpm worth of powerband. Its like the stock turbo that we all fell in the love with but much more.
I had an MHI red, then SS (hated it), then back to an mhi red.
If you have a 100mm engine then the fp black mhi pairs well with it. There are other mhi turbo's on the market but the FP clearly spools up quicker and makes power.
I've had a BB and JB red. Definitely a difference in part throttle cruise and transient response . When I had the JB on the car it just seemed to labor going down the road at cruise. The BB red was just ready and moved more air at part throttle IMO. I presume shaft speed was higher or maybe the JB was just a dud. Both made around 550whp at 30-32psi.
100% worth the money now that the oiling issues are solved on the newer stuff
For the record and first hand. Two identical turbo's can run differently. I've seen 100-120hp difference on a 6466 on a 2jz. Sometimes you just get a runner.
Last edited by Abacus; Apr 17, 2025 at 02:42 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2024
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From: PA
https://youtu.be/xgrjZmuG1AQ?feature=shared&t=35 It wicks right up.
I've had a BB and JB red. Definitely a difference in part throttle cruise and transient response . When I had the JB on the car it just seemed to labor going down the road at cruise. The BB red was just ready and moved more air at part throttle IMO. I presume shaft speed was higher or maybe the JB was just a dud. Both made around 550whp at 30-32psi.
100% worth the money now that the oiling issues are solved on the newer stuff
For the record and first hand. Two identical turbo's can run differently. I've seen 100-120hp difference on a 6466 on a 2jz. Sometimes you just get a runner.
I've had a BB and JB red. Definitely a difference in part throttle cruise and transient response . When I had the JB on the car it just seemed to labor going down the road at cruise. The BB red was just ready and moved more air at part throttle IMO. I presume shaft speed was higher or maybe the JB was just a dud. Both made around 550whp at 30-32psi.
100% worth the money now that the oiling issues are solved on the newer stuff
For the record and first hand. Two identical turbo's can run differently. I've seen 100-120hp difference on a 6466 on a 2jz. Sometimes you just get a runner.
My only question with that scenario is were the supporting mods the same on both 2j cars? That's a wild difference if so!
You really got me thinking again.. makes me wanna just make the plunge. FP did say they could build me a UHF Red in ball bearing, they offer the UHF Green in ball bearing on the website but not the Red. It is possible the jb you had was a dud.. but you're the first person to respond with running the same turbo in both bb and jb. If you noticed that much of a difference then it seems worth it to me. This is more of a "one and done" deal so I may as well just get the ball bearing and be done. Happy to hear the oiling issues were resolved.
My only question with that scenario is were the supporting mods the same on both 2j cars? That's a wild difference if so!
My only question with that scenario is were the supporting mods the same on both 2j cars? That's a wild difference if so!
The JZ was the same car/engine. Max effort testing and one broke,so another one went on.