*Full disclosure, the car is currently at a shop looking at it, but I figured I'd post this thread just in case anyone else runs into this issue - I'll update if we find a resolution.

PLEASE read all the way through this. I have bled, adjusted, bled again, adjusted again ( so many positions it's almost comical) etc. The telling thing here is the symptoms are exactly the same with the old clutch as it went out as compared to when we threw a brand new clutch disk, PP, flywheel, TOB in. So to me, that rules out the clutch itself.

Story:
Car has been on a ACT HDSS with OEM flywheel for about 3 years. Only autocrossed and tracked, rarely driven on the street. I've had good success with this in the past 2 other evos I've ran - one of which was at about 500 launches and still kicking. One I had the spring bust out of the clutch disk. This last one seemed fine but was down to the rivets when we pulled it - obviously since the clutch is dragging big time.

April 2025:
I replaced the clutch slave as the boot was rotting to pieces, even though I didn't notice any issues with the clutch at the time. Replaced hardline and bled with my Motive power bleeder. Car felt fine. I did adjust out the clutch pedal and the switch to allow for more travel. Maybe I went too far? Unsure. At launch, the car would slowly creep but it would do that previously from time to time as well. I just assumed it was me having the clutch in a position too close to it engaging (I never launch with it fully on the floor, but maybe I should going forward). No biggie at the time. Can the slave be bad when there isn't an external leak? I don't have the old one to throw back on either.

July 2025:
My buddy went to pull up to the line to start the car for an autox. Said while he revved it up, he thought the car wanted to move forward without him releasing the clutch. Didn't think much of it. Thought it may have been driver error but I was wrong.

Late July 2025: I tried launching at an autox. Car REALLY wanted to move forward before me releasing the clutch. Also went to a pro solo in Lincoln and on test launches, the car would literally pull ahead at about 3000 rpm, clutch to the floor/while revving. The clutch pedal would definitely feel like a vibration was coming through it at rest or if you just BARELY push it in. Otherwise the pedal has felt normal.

I assumed the clutch was bad as it's taken a few years of abuse. I've had ACT clutches pop the springs before so I decide to pull the trans and throw in a new clutch. We proceed to do so.

*Notes of clutch install/removal
We had a HELL of a time trying to release the TOB/monoloc. We actually couldn't release itso we had to remove the trans with the pressure plate. Cut the Monoloc off.
I didn't pay crazy close attention to the input shaft splines or anything on install/removal, but everything went in fine. Went with a single disc Xclutch.
Went to drive it and the SAME exact issues occurred right from the get go. Stationary, push the clutch to the floor, slowly rev and it wants to move forward at about 3,000 rpm. Shifts have resistance due to clutch not wanting to disengage.

I have also replaced the clutch master as well for ****s and giggles - the master and slave never had any external leaks. Bleed countless times, filling the reservoir up to the cap and watching the level. Tried manually bleeding and power bleeding. Seems like the clutch fork/slave is moving enough, but I'm not 100% certain.

I'm at a loss. I have a pro solo finale in a week as well as nationals following right after.

Questions:
Could it be the input shaft?
Could the OEM slave I threw on, be bad even though it's not leaking externally?
I assume the clutch fork isn't going to bend, it would simply snap if it came to it, right? Does anyone or has anyone seen a picture of a bent one?
I know the clutch pedal bracket can crack, but to me again, the clutch fork seems to be moving enough to disengage the clutch. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here.
Shop has checked for crankwalk - looks to be within spec there. WHEW
Trans to engine bolts were torqued down - never checked to see if there was movement of the trans when pushing the clutch though.


If you or anyone you know has dealt with this issue, please help me out.

 

the clutch pedal, where the pin goes thru which secures it to the master has a tendency of ovaling out over the years, espeically with heavier clutches. Id take a look there

 

I had a CM FX300 clutch begin to lose pieces and start dragging terribly but I don't think it's the same issue as the one you have. Tough to troubleshoot on the internet, but here's a dump of all the stuff I can think of.

1. If you keep the clutch pedal pressed to the floor, do you notice the slave and fork at the transmission back off at all? You should not see any movement there if the clutch pedal is pressed. Thinking maybe a leak or air in the hydraulic system could lead to the pressure plate slowly applying pressure even though the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor. If the dragging only starts after the clutch pedal is pressed for a period of time, maybe look into this. You'd probably notice some kind of leak if this were happening though, and you said you didn't notice anything.
   
2. You mentioned checking the trans-to-engine bolts, but there are a couple engine-to-trans bolts too, one that is easy to miss is right next to the transfer case behind the engine. It goes through the engine block into the transmission. It is difficult to see with the transfer case bolted on but I think you can make sure it's there and tightened. If this bolt wasn't there when you did the clutch last time, you wouldn't have known to replace it, and it would be causing the same problem.
   
   
   
3. Bent input shaft? I've heard of this but never have seen it happen. Not sure how you would test for this, since it probably wouldn't be obvious without spinning the shaft.
   
4. I don't think the fork can bend unless you pressed the clutch pedal when the pressure plate springs had nowhere to go. You could compare a picture from a parts site of a new one. I've seen the journal on the transmission which holds the pivot shaft break. But you'd know instantly if that gave way.

Resources you might find useful for ideas:

Old *** video of Jack from Jack's Transmissions talking about clutch drag and how you know the pedal is adjusted properly. He is using DSM parts but I think it's the same on the Evo:

For your issue, I would pay attention to step 11 and the procedure there for bleeding air out of the slave:
http://www.teamrip.com/clutch-bleeding/

 

FYI - the problem has been found for anyone experiencing similar issues.

It was a cracked crank on the 4th cylinder. Glad the solution has been found.