When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Saw these, was also looking at the set from JD Customs as they have titanium studs for the turbo housing and outlet as well. They look pretty well reviewed and are about the same price.
Saw these, was also looking at the set from JD Customs as they have titanium studs for the turbo housing and outlet as well. They look pretty well reviewed and are about the same price.
i just got the stainless studs nuts for the exhaust and bolts to turbo from STM coming monday. the TI are cool, thats a expensive project to swap everything over though.
Resurrecting this thread a bit as I want advice on how to tackle this rust. All other factors aside, the way I see it, the studs holding the exhaust manifold to the head are probably going to break when I try to remove them right? If they break I don't have the tools (or the skills probably) to get them out without the risk of damaging the head, so I'm thinking the right answer here is to find a shop that will replace the manifold and turbo studs/hardware.
Is it possible to pull the exhaust manifold and replace the hardware without separating the downpipe from the O2 housing/turbo? I imagine it would be if you removed the turbo studs, but I'm not sure.
You can remove the manifold without removing the turbo but yes, the manifold to turbo bolts/nuts must be removed. You'll need clearance if you can't remove the studs from the hotside, which would require the turbo to block bracket being removed, as well as some oil/coolant lines. Enough to push down on the turbo to get the manifold out.
As for the exhaust manifold studs, If they are severely corroded. you'll have a hard time removing them. I had ones before that were nearly disintegrated and had the hardest time removing them. If it wasn't for this tool: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w83203 I would have been sht outta luck. Penetrating catalyst is a must.
If you cant separate anything then the last option would be to try and separate the turbo compressor housing from the hotside. Undue the clamp and gently tap it until it comes apart.
As for the exhaust manifold studs, If they are severely corroded. you'll have a hard time removing them. I had ones before that were nearly disintegrated and had the hardest time removing them. If it wasn't for this tool: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w83203 I would have been sht outta luck. Penetrating catalyst is a must.
Curious how you would rate the ones I posted a picture of. To me they look like my chances of getting the manifold out without snapping a stud are basically zero.
Originally Posted by deylag
If you cant separate anything then the last option would be to try and separate the turbo compressor housing from the hotside. Undue the clamp and gently tap it until it comes apart.
For the moment I'm not super concerned about the turbo, I am just wanting to replace the exhaust manifold hardware and the downpipe/O2 housing. I could replace every part up front and it wouldn't be a huge deal but I just know those damn exhaust manifold head studs are going to be a *****.
those nuts might be fused to the stud already, they might come out in one piece, give one a try . atleast 4 of mine keeps coming out with the egged nut
Curious how you would rate the ones I posted a picture of. To me they look like my chances of getting the manifold out without snapping a stud are basically zero.
You would be surprised. I'd start with removing the nuts first and see whats left of the end of the studs. I'll try to find some pictures.
Do you guys think an induction heater would help remove the manifold studs from the cylinder head? I'm about to pick one up for another project anyway. With the cylinder head being aluminum I'm not sure if that would make it easier or harder.
Stud remover - 1/2 turns
If starts to move carry on. If stuck solid, apply heat. Only apply heat if it’s needed!
Heating and cold shocking may work better for you too if any are stuck
https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...ud-remover-set
Stud remover - 1/2 turns
If starts to move carry on. If stuck solid, apply heat. Only apply heat if it’s needed!
Heating and cold shocking may work better for you too if any are stuck
What do you mean by only apply heat if it's needed? Is there any risk of damaging the cylinder head with it? I've never used heat on anything aluminum so I'm a bit nervous about it.
If the stud won't move use a torch and heat up all around the stud for 60 seconds and try backing it out. It doesn't budge add more heat, just don't hold the torch in spot, keep going around the stud in a circle to heat it evenly. Take your time, you won't melt the cylinder head, you just want enough heat to release the stud.