Improving the camshaft cap retaining system
ARP bolts are designed because of a higher need of consistent seal/clamp at high stress points. Just because one guy gets a crappy cam install doesn't mean that the Mitsu design is a crappy one. Those ARP bolts will be under enormous stress when you consider the torque spec to be 14-15lbs,...right. By the way he charged this guy $3500 to do the work on his head, INSANE!
so I see among all the other things you know .. now you know what the cost is on the cylinder head ? ? impressive ! ! has nothing to do with the clamping force .. more like a little more support for the cap .. but you knew that already .. always ready to chime in when you have nothing positive to contribute ...
so I see among all the other things you know .. now you know what the cost is on the cylinder head ? ? impressive ! ! has nothing to do with the clamping force .. more like a little more support for the cap .. but you knew that already .. always ready to chime in when you have nothing positive to contribute ...
Last edited by ferrarokid; Jun 2, 2004 at 07:50 AM.
This stuff always comes up in virtually every darkhorse thread.
Is it necessary to do on every head? Probably not.
Was it "necessary" on this one? Probably.
Some of us are into overkill, some just want something that's worked fine for someone else, so it should work fine for me.
My luck isn't that good, so I've learned to be an overkill guy.
Is it necessary to do on every head? Probably not.
Was it "necessary" on this one? Probably.
Some of us are into overkill, some just want something that's worked fine for someone else, so it should work fine for me.
My luck isn't that good, so I've learned to be an overkill guy.
Originally Posted by 4G63>OOOO
Some of us are into overkill, some just want something that's worked fine for someone else, so it should work fine for me.
My luck isn't that good, so I've learned to be an overkill guy.
My luck isn't that good, so I've learned to be an overkill guy.

The title of the thread was "Improving the cam cap retaining system" not "Mitsubishi's way doesn't work". You are all right, the stock setup is fine. this is just another way. The stud is just a stud with a locator built in, no magic, you certainly could use the OEM hardware and it would be fine. I just saw another way, and was just sharing the information.
This is the way I do things, you can all do what you want to. And as far as cost goes, why dont you go and get all of the equipment you need to do the work, all of the tooling, abrasives, chemicals, etc, and on top of that sit down and actually do the work and see how long it takes you to get it done properly and factor in the time, and then tell me what you think a fair price is to charge. Not to be confronatational, but you will comment on an unsubstantiated price when you will turn around and spend much more on bolt on b.s of which half of it doesnt fit or work half the time anyway, but I am the insane one for charging what I charge to take the time and do something correctly? Makes sense to me.
In conclusion, the studs dont require you to rehone the cam caps. What would require you to rehone the cam caps is if they were not round or had the proper oil clearance. What I have found is this, if you install a cam in the housing and turn it by hand, if feels bound up, and tight, after the housing gets honed to proper size, the cam spins much freer. This is on brand new heads, as well as used heads.
Also by doing the housings, myabe the cam gets dropped .002 lower, thats half the thickness of a human hair. How much effect do you think that has on cam timing? Not much, and if you are so concerned with degreeing them in dead on, and that you beleive that rehoning the housings now has thrown it all off (Which it doesn't)- How much variation in cam timing do you think you undergo when you travel through the rev range with that 4-5 foot long rubber belt flapping around running from the crank up around the tensioner and up to the camsprockets to drive the camshafts?
Also, we change cams often to try different combinations on a motor to see which profile best matches what has been done, and not having to deal with problems with retaining harware is a big help.
This is the way I do things, you can all do what you want to. And as far as cost goes, why dont you go and get all of the equipment you need to do the work, all of the tooling, abrasives, chemicals, etc, and on top of that sit down and actually do the work and see how long it takes you to get it done properly and factor in the time, and then tell me what you think a fair price is to charge. Not to be confronatational, but you will comment on an unsubstantiated price when you will turn around and spend much more on bolt on b.s of which half of it doesnt fit or work half the time anyway, but I am the insane one for charging what I charge to take the time and do something correctly? Makes sense to me.
In conclusion, the studs dont require you to rehone the cam caps. What would require you to rehone the cam caps is if they were not round or had the proper oil clearance. What I have found is this, if you install a cam in the housing and turn it by hand, if feels bound up, and tight, after the housing gets honed to proper size, the cam spins much freer. This is on brand new heads, as well as used heads.
Also by doing the housings, myabe the cam gets dropped .002 lower, thats half the thickness of a human hair. How much effect do you think that has on cam timing? Not much, and if you are so concerned with degreeing them in dead on, and that you beleive that rehoning the housings now has thrown it all off (Which it doesn't)- How much variation in cam timing do you think you undergo when you travel through the rev range with that 4-5 foot long rubber belt flapping around running from the crank up around the tensioner and up to the camsprockets to drive the camshafts?
Also, we change cams often to try different combinations on a motor to see which profile best matches what has been done, and not having to deal with problems with retaining harware is a big help.
Last edited by darkhorse; Jun 2, 2004 at 05:36 PM.
Originally Posted by superz
ARP bolts are designed because of a higher need of consistent seal/clamp at high stress points. Just because one guy gets a crappy cam install doesn't mean that the Mitsu design is a crappy one. Those ARP bolts will be under enormous stress when you consider the torque spec to be 14-15lbs,...right. By the way he charged this guy $3500 to do the work on his head, INSANE!
Well, you could always go down to Hunts Point and get some work done on your head for about $30, but I guarantee you that it wont be the same and it will be much more sloppy.
The new studs sound good. Stock hardware from Japan is not the best. None of my trucker buddies will use it.
I have had rod ends honed after the caps were shaved but I think if my caps were out of round I'd just get some new ones from Mitsu.
Zeus old buddy, take that mill down and have her blueprinted, you know you want to.
I have had rod ends honed after the caps were shaved but I think if my caps were out of round I'd just get some new ones from Mitsu.
Zeus old buddy, take that mill down and have her blueprinted, you know you want to.
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