541 whp........not too hard to do.
Originally Posted by NRG
So I understand that the 580 kit is a DIRECT bolt-on NO FABRICATIONS of any kind needed and it includes EVERYTHING there is for the installation. Is this correct?
Thanks guys,
Jeremy
Originally Posted by jerastan
I can only comment on my kit/install. It was all very straight-forward, but no instructions were included. Not that they were needed, but a novice may take a while to figure out where to hook up the oil lines and what-not. No biggy by any means though. The only problem that I ran into was the manifold. I guess I got one of the first 580 kits and the manifold was not prepped for the stock nuts to be place onto the studs on the head. I just had to grind some divets onto the manifold so that they would fit, but again..... no biggy. From what Tym said, all of the ones shipping now are just fine. No fab needed at all. Oh, I did cut the stock metal oil line that feeds down to the oil pan. It has to be fed into the new bigger, insulated line off of the 580. Just for your info, the braided line that comes w/ the kit will feed down to the top of the oil filter housing. All in all, GREAT KIT w/ a great price.
Thanks guys,
Jeremy
Thanks guys,
Jeremy
I'm really curious to see how the UTEC handles the big turbocharger. Good luck and keep us posted.
Glad to hear you were happy with the kit, we did our best. We do need to come up with instructions, we have pictures done so it will be easy. Like you said, it is assembled completely, just hook up the oil feed and return.
Direct bolt on? Yes. Depending on the downpipe you are running you may end up having an issue there, not sure what it will be though as we haven't come across any issues yet. I think everyoen has our exhaust that ha put it on so far.
On the fuel system.
We have made over 600 whp on the stock feed and return lines in 1G DSM's. Lines look like the same size on the EVO. The stock tank on the EVO is pretty well engineered. A drag car would benefit from a cell I am sure. For an all around EVO I would suggest leaving the tank alone. We just need to come up with a pump that is going to outflow what we have and go in the stock location, we will find one. Our fuel pump/injector kit is $550. That is (4) 680 cc injectors and the fuel pump. Also some new gaskets for the install on the fuel tank.
When I posted what we were using for injectors in our car I actually lied. We don't even have 680's in the car. When we put injectors in our car we were out and put a set of old 660 cc injector in the car. I didn't see much sense in mentioning it since isn't what we are selling now. The 660's are just about maxed out at the 540 whp at 30 psi of boost. The 680's would allow us some more room for more power.
Pump gas there would be NO issues with running out of fuel. Think about, you would be running a ton less boost than the 30 psi we were running, therefore it would require a lot less fuel. Fueling the car at 20 psi is going to require much less and you would have plenty of injector.
Thanks,
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Direct bolt on? Yes. Depending on the downpipe you are running you may end up having an issue there, not sure what it will be though as we haven't come across any issues yet. I think everyoen has our exhaust that ha put it on so far.
On the fuel system.
We have made over 600 whp on the stock feed and return lines in 1G DSM's. Lines look like the same size on the EVO. The stock tank on the EVO is pretty well engineered. A drag car would benefit from a cell I am sure. For an all around EVO I would suggest leaving the tank alone. We just need to come up with a pump that is going to outflow what we have and go in the stock location, we will find one. Our fuel pump/injector kit is $550. That is (4) 680 cc injectors and the fuel pump. Also some new gaskets for the install on the fuel tank.
When I posted what we were using for injectors in our car I actually lied. We don't even have 680's in the car. When we put injectors in our car we were out and put a set of old 660 cc injector in the car. I didn't see much sense in mentioning it since isn't what we are selling now. The 660's are just about maxed out at the 540 whp at 30 psi of boost. The 680's would allow us some more room for more power.
Pump gas there would be NO issues with running out of fuel. Think about, you would be running a ton less boost than the 30 psi we were running, therefore it would require a lot less fuel. Fueling the car at 20 psi is going to require much less and you would have plenty of injector.
Thanks,
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Evolving Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: chicago
hey guys, a couple of questions....
i have buschurs stage 4 kit on pump gas with a custom tune....
lets say i bought the 580 kit, can i use the super afc to tune?? does buschur have settings for it? or do i need to get the ems stand alone box? will the car pass emmissions?
i suppose the stand alone kit would eliminate the maf and would make my stalling issue disappear..
i have buschurs stage 4 kit on pump gas with a custom tune....
lets say i bought the 580 kit, can i use the super afc to tune?? does buschur have settings for it? or do i need to get the ems stand alone box? will the car pass emmissions?
i suppose the stand alone kit would eliminate the maf and would make my stalling issue disappear..
Evolved Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,552
Likes: 1
From: KL,Malaysia
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
Hi all,
Wanted to start a new thread about an old topic....our turbo kits. The other thread is getting very long
News.
Turbo kits were a huge project, took much longer than expected to finish. The casting, tooling and CNC work all seemed to have something that held it up. Finally we got a finished awesome product here. Just as we did and shipped the first few kits out of here our turbo supplier ran out of turbos. Now Garrett Industries is holding us up.
The best news is there are some kits out there and running very well.
The BR440 kit made 443 whp on race gas and 401 on pump gas.
The BR500 kit made 505 whp on race gas, we did not dyno it on pump gas.
Both of the above kits are complete with manifold, turbo, stainless steel 02 housing, new engine fan, lower i/c pipe and oil lines bolts right on. $2300.
The BR580 kit is what we have done the most driving and testing on. The kit has performed very well. Driveability is awesome. The turbo is making 10 psi of boost by 3,000 rpm and 20 psi at 3,800 rpm. We are using the EMS to tune with with this turbo. One kit we have out there has been driven from OH to CT then to MD, put quite a few miles on it, back to Ohio then to New Jersey and back to MD. Customer is happy as hell with it.
We have a customer car here that also has the turbo on it. This car is a complete rocket. At only 23 psi of boost we ran an 11.31 at 123 mph, as it is not our car we did not beat it into the ground trying to run well with it, it is capable of much more, a blast to drive.
Up until two days ago we had not dyno'd the BR580 kit. We finally have some numbers for it. Running our EVO on our dyno (2WD Dynojet) on 30 psi of boost we made 541 whp. Our EVO is still using the stock shortblock and all the stock fasteners and is still using the stock intake manifold and throttle body. We are swappping on our sheetmetal intake and larger throttle body this week and will continue testing. I am hoping the intake/tb change will gain us some horsepower and bring the numbers up closer to 580 whp at 30 psi of boost. No pump gas testing has been done on this turbo, yet.
Once the intake/TB is swapped our car will finally go back to AWD and back to the track for some real numbers. The car hasn't been run since last October which has definetely put us behind some other shops in the 1/4 mile time department.
The BR500 has been kicking some serious butt in California on Robert Fullers car. He just competed in the Ultimate Street Car Challenge and had the fastest road race lap times by over 1.5 seconds. He also made 420 whp with a mild tune on an AWD dyno in California with that turbo.
In the past we have put AWD DSM's in the 10.0's at 140 mph trap speeds without the use of nitrous with only 545 whp.
We plan to keep our EVO as most of you would like to keep it, handling and braking great and with the power steering, air conditioning and the comforts that it has intact. The car won't be a light weight stripped drag car. I have built too many of them in the past and want to do something different with this car. It is just too good to destroy in the quest for some super low 1/4 mile times. I would rather take the approach with the car that we have from the beginning. Build more usable power to use on the dragstrip, road course and just to run around in and enjoy.
What we have done since day one with this car has work well. We have customers that are going faster than we did with our own shop car using just our Staged upgrades, nothing is better than that! We have people dominating the road courses running high boost for very very long periods of time and then driving the cars home afterwards! That's what it is all about to us.
541 whp, that's just a start.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Wanted to start a new thread about an old topic....our turbo kits. The other thread is getting very long
News.
Turbo kits were a huge project, took much longer than expected to finish. The casting, tooling and CNC work all seemed to have something that held it up. Finally we got a finished awesome product here. Just as we did and shipped the first few kits out of here our turbo supplier ran out of turbos. Now Garrett Industries is holding us up.
The best news is there are some kits out there and running very well.
The BR440 kit made 443 whp on race gas and 401 on pump gas.
The BR500 kit made 505 whp on race gas, we did not dyno it on pump gas.
Both of the above kits are complete with manifold, turbo, stainless steel 02 housing, new engine fan, lower i/c pipe and oil lines bolts right on. $2300.
The BR580 kit is what we have done the most driving and testing on. The kit has performed very well. Driveability is awesome. The turbo is making 10 psi of boost by 3,000 rpm and 20 psi at 3,800 rpm. We are using the EMS to tune with with this turbo. One kit we have out there has been driven from OH to CT then to MD, put quite a few miles on it, back to Ohio then to New Jersey and back to MD. Customer is happy as hell with it.
We have a customer car here that also has the turbo on it. This car is a complete rocket. At only 23 psi of boost we ran an 11.31 at 123 mph, as it is not our car we did not beat it into the ground trying to run well with it, it is capable of much more, a blast to drive.
Up until two days ago we had not dyno'd the BR580 kit. We finally have some numbers for it. Running our EVO on our dyno (2WD Dynojet) on 30 psi of boost we made 541 whp. Our EVO is still using the stock shortblock and all the stock fasteners and is still using the stock intake manifold and throttle body. We are swappping on our sheetmetal intake and larger throttle body this week and will continue testing. I am hoping the intake/tb change will gain us some horsepower and bring the numbers up closer to 580 whp at 30 psi of boost. No pump gas testing has been done on this turbo, yet.
Once the intake/TB is swapped our car will finally go back to AWD and back to the track for some real numbers. The car hasn't been run since last October which has definetely put us behind some other shops in the 1/4 mile time department.
The BR500 has been kicking some serious butt in California on Robert Fullers car. He just competed in the Ultimate Street Car Challenge and had the fastest road race lap times by over 1.5 seconds. He also made 420 whp with a mild tune on an AWD dyno in California with that turbo.
In the past we have put AWD DSM's in the 10.0's at 140 mph trap speeds without the use of nitrous with only 545 whp.
We plan to keep our EVO as most of you would like to keep it, handling and braking great and with the power steering, air conditioning and the comforts that it has intact. The car won't be a light weight stripped drag car. I have built too many of them in the past and want to do something different with this car. It is just too good to destroy in the quest for some super low 1/4 mile times. I would rather take the approach with the car that we have from the beginning. Build more usable power to use on the dragstrip, road course and just to run around in and enjoy.
What we have done since day one with this car has work well. We have customers that are going faster than we did with our own shop car using just our Staged upgrades, nothing is better than that! We have people dominating the road courses running high boost for very very long periods of time and then driving the cars home afterwards! That's what it is all about to us.
541 whp, that's just a start.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Evolved Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,552
Likes: 1
From: KL,Malaysia
Originally Posted by evo8_m3
I was planning on getting the HKS GT3037S Kit, but shty for $2500. I'll definitely go with BR 580 kit. I do want to know the difference between the BR & HKS kit other than the brand and price of course... basically the good and bad. 
Going for HKS GT3037S will better.
Evolved Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,552
Likes: 1
From: KL,Malaysia
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
Why internally gated? Simple, two reasons are tied for number 1. First is cost and second is neatness of the install.
We wanted a very stealthy package that was super clean when installed on the car. Packaging the external wastegate on the car is very tight. The wastegate is extremely hot, just another part heat soak the engine bay and where most companies put them the radiator. An HKS wastegate is $385, then you have the tubing to mount it, tubing for the dump tube on it and the extra labor on our end to put the kit together. It really adds up quickly.
The number one reason to run an external wastegate is boost control. The larger the turbo the harder it is to control boost down low with an internal gate. You end up NOT being able to run low boost. With the turbo design we are using and the internal wastegate design low boost control is not a problem. We are running these down to 18 psi without any trouble or boost creep issues. At that point why mess around with the expense and extra mess of the external wastegate?
Differences in the HKS kit and our kit.
HKS uses a fabricated tubular header.
Our kit uses a Ni-resist high nickel cast manifold.
HKS uses an external wastegate.
Ours uses an internal wastegate.
Ours has a hand fabricated stainless steel 02 housing
HKS?
Ours has all the oil feed and return lines.
HKS?
Ours has the lower i/c plumbing.
HKS?
Ours comes with a new engine fan.
HKS?
I think the major difference is going to be the header opposed to our cast manifold and the internal vs. external wastegate.
We have kept the cost as low as we could. Honestly I think our kit is a steal for $2300-$2500 depending on which turbo you choose.
There is no fear of our manifold breaking, with a tubular header it is going to break/crap eventually, it is just a matter of when (and that is a FACT).
Thanks for the questions guys.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
We wanted a very stealthy package that was super clean when installed on the car. Packaging the external wastegate on the car is very tight. The wastegate is extremely hot, just another part heat soak the engine bay and where most companies put them the radiator. An HKS wastegate is $385, then you have the tubing to mount it, tubing for the dump tube on it and the extra labor on our end to put the kit together. It really adds up quickly.
The number one reason to run an external wastegate is boost control. The larger the turbo the harder it is to control boost down low with an internal gate. You end up NOT being able to run low boost. With the turbo design we are using and the internal wastegate design low boost control is not a problem. We are running these down to 18 psi without any trouble or boost creep issues. At that point why mess around with the expense and extra mess of the external wastegate?
Differences in the HKS kit and our kit.
HKS uses a fabricated tubular header.
Our kit uses a Ni-resist high nickel cast manifold.
HKS uses an external wastegate.
Ours uses an internal wastegate.
Ours has a hand fabricated stainless steel 02 housing
HKS?
Ours has all the oil feed and return lines.
HKS?
Ours has the lower i/c plumbing.
HKS?
Ours comes with a new engine fan.
HKS?
I think the major difference is going to be the header opposed to our cast manifold and the internal vs. external wastegate.
We have kept the cost as low as we could. Honestly I think our kit is a steal for $2300-$2500 depending on which turbo you choose.
There is no fear of our manifold breaking, with a tubular header it is going to break/crap eventually, it is just a matter of when (and that is a FACT).
Thanks for the questions guys.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Evolved Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,552
Likes: 1
From: KL,Malaysia
Originally Posted by evo8_m3
David;
thanks for your response !! That helps me decide to go with your kit.
I will be upgrading to BR580 kit pretty soon with the U-Tec. I know I need to upgrade my clutch (XEDY Twin Disc), but is anyone still running stock clutch on a BR580 kit? How long will the stock clutch holds, assuming I drive normal - maybe couple hard pulls time to time? 
BTW - How's the idle on the BR580? will it be the same as stock?
thanks for your response !! That helps me decide to go with your kit.
I will be upgrading to BR580 kit pretty soon with the U-Tec.
I know I need to upgrade my clutch (XEDY Twin Disc), but is anyone still running stock clutch on a BR580 kit? How long will the stock clutch holds, assuming I drive normal - maybe couple hard pulls time to time? BTW - How's the idle on the BR580? will it be the same as stock?
Hi,
Going for ATS RPS Triple plate carbon clutch will better.Selling in www.boost-solutions.com.
Originally Posted by evomind
hey guys, a couple of questions....
i have buschurs stage 4 kit on pump gas with a custom tune....
lets say i bought the 580 kit, can i use the super afc to tune?? does buschur have settings for it? or do i need to get the ems stand alone box? will the car pass emmissions?
i suppose the stand alone kit would eliminate the maf and would make my stalling issue disappear..
i have buschurs stage 4 kit on pump gas with a custom tune....
lets say i bought the 580 kit, can i use the super afc to tune?? does buschur have settings for it? or do i need to get the ems stand alone box? will the car pass emmissions?
i suppose the stand alone kit would eliminate the maf and would make my stalling issue disappear..
Originally Posted by MrBonus
Have you tuned it yet? Are you running the MAP sensor with the UTEC?
I'm really curious to see how the UTEC handles the big turbocharger. Good luck and keep us posted.
I'm really curious to see how the UTEC handles the big turbocharger. Good luck and keep us posted.
Hell no Jerstan! It's not bad drivability, plus I got 80whp from switching to a reflash to the ems and map conversion. If your running the 580, it's still not to do the MAP. Do the EMS if your going to spend all this money
BTW: Do you have your 272s installed? How do they idle? I have a set in my toolbox I might install, I'm probably going to trade them for HKS and a free install.
BTW: Do you have your 272s installed? How do they idle? I have a set in my toolbox I might install, I'm probably going to trade them for HKS and a free install.
Dave, I have your Stage one on my car...wild from what it was stock! I figure eventually, Im going to upgrade all the plumbing, a mild fuel system and stick with the AFC and maybe a flash from Big Al. Supporting mods, aside from driveline like my cusco clutch, with the BR440, a headgasket and ARP studs?
David, I was looking at the several parts supplied with my br580 kit, and it seems that the oil feed line is very long which in my mind makes me think that the feed will be from somewhere else. I guess the plug is to block off the original oil feed on the head.
Now, I dont have my engine here to check this as its currently being at the machine shop. Does the feed come from the block? If so, is there a tap for it already or I need to make one?
thanks once again
Now, I dont have my engine here to check this as its currently being at the machine shop. Does the feed come from the block? If so, is there a tap for it already or I need to make one?
thanks once again