chinto

iTrader: (2)

im trying to figure out why i cant get over 15 psi boost once my car warms up. right now im running aem sri, apex avc-r , and a greddy typ-s . iv changed all the settings and played with the adjustment screw i have even taken out the small spring from the greddy.

every now and then when my car is not quite warmed up yet i can boost to about 17 psi but thats only one or two pulls then its back down to 15 psi, any help would be apreciated iv replaced ( almost ) all my clamps and checked all my hoses. i beleve every thing is setup correctly. thanks for the help any questions you have to help me out better ask and ill answer.

Dan

Lordmythic

Double and triple check your vacuum lines and hoses ...you can still have a leak somewhere .. also when modding do one at a time so it helps diagnose the problem.. in your situation I'd take the BOV out and put the stock one back in and see what happens.. (I had the same problem .. my bov had a leak)

chinto

iTrader: (2)

i had taken my car to TT and they had dynoed my car i had taped into a wrong vacume hose and was haveing some issues and i was told i wasnt being able to boost over 15 psi because my stock bov was leaking and i orderd a greddy from them and just got it in and im still not being able to boost over 15 no matter how i have the avc-r set. thanks for the help
dan

forum04pl

iTrader: (10)

yeah check the vacuum lines to look for leaks, you should concentrate around your boost solenoid wich will keep you from going over a certain boost level if something is set up wrong with the car. hopefully you find whats going wrong.

chinto

iTrader: (2)

somone give me better directions on how the avc-r solenoid gets hooked in iv read all the posts and howto's on evom i could find and i duno i still have a feeling the hoses are not ran correctly.
im not sure which side the wast gate hose is because their are two nipples right next to each other under the turbo and also for the avcr solinoid i have them going to i belve the COM and the NO so it makes a L

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Ok.. the black nipple (on the black discharge pipe, **NOT** the black nipple on the bottom of your MAF pipe, that should just be capped off if you removed the line to your stock solenoid!) should go to the NO, the Actuator nipple (the bronze colored thing) should go to the COM port on the solenoid..

Important.. NO stands for NORMALLY OPEN.. which means you can blow through it and air will pass through when its not energized.. There's probably another opening without a fitting on it that says NC (Normally closed)

If you have COM going to your vacuum source, your introducing a leak since it will be open all the time.. BTW, COM stands for the Common port.. If this is a solenoid it actually has three ports, a common port, and energized port, and a non-energized port.. Only two of the ports may have nipples on them, but the third port will usually be the vent..

the COM port is what you will need to connect to the ACTUATOR.. If you blow through the common port, it will ALWAYS allow air to travel through it regardless of if its energized or not..

The best I can tell is the COM to the actuator will allow the pressure to bleed off and not get trapped in the line to the actuator (sort of like the bleed hole in most MBC's)

If the vacuum source is T'ed off your DV, first, you'd need to put the vacuum cap on the black nipple under the turbo and zip-tie it on, you need to remove the old lines from the stock Solenoid setup (With the T fitting) since the hoses have restrictors in them. (leave the stock solenoid in place)

I can assume if you've introduced a severe vacuum leak from the solenoid being hooked up backwards, and its T'd off the DV line, its possible that you've bled off enough boost signal to affect ANY DV you hook up..

When I had my S-AVCR hooked up, I used the stock location for the boost source... When I upgraded my intercooler to the Buschur, the discharge tube supplied didn't have that source any longer, and I had to move my boost control solenoid to the DV line.. Even though I run the stock boost solenoid now with a UTEC, I did have to add a 1-way valve so under vacuum I had enough signal to draw the DV open or I'd get a bit of compressor surge or fluttering.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

BTW Not every electronic boost controller uses a solenoid, some use an electronically operated grainger valve (Spring-Ball valve)

Solenoids are known to be more responsive, but have a shorter lifespan than valves.. But this is just an offtopic bit of techno-babble..

chinto

iTrader: (2)

thanks Jack , any way u can take pics that are clear? ill show this to the guy thats helped me out. most of the pics that iv found for the avc-r are way to close to do me any good.

for the solenoid that comes with the avc-r is it spost to make a loop to the nipples under the ( sorry i dont know the correct terms so im tryn to describe ) turbo or is it spost to be T 'd into the hose that goes to the BOV . thanks for the help



ok with out u haveing pics u think i have the no / com backwards possably? if me getting pics of how i have it setup would help let me know and i can do that also

thanks a bunch.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Sorry, can't really help you with Pics since I don't have an S-AVCR hooked up..

Yes, you should basically make a "Loop" from the black METAL nipple, to the solenoid, to the Gold Actuator Nipple..

the NO port goes to the black METAL nipple
the COM port goes to the Gold ACTUATOR nipple

Let me be absolutely clear, the black nipple is *NOT* the one on the plastic intake pipe (MAF pipe) It a black metal pipe and nipple real close to the actuator..

If you hook it up that way, there's no need to put any T into the vacuum line to your DV..

Of course, if your the poor soul like me, who no longer has that fitting on the Discharge pipe, then you MUST use an alternate vacuum/boost source, which is normally the DV.

This is very straightforward if you take a step back.. draw a box on a piece of paper, that box is your solenoid.. one side is NO, the other is COM.. draw two circles off to the side, write ACTUATOR on one, and BOOST Source on the other.. now draw a line from the NO to the BOOST source circle, and a line from the COM to the ACTUATOR circle..

There's your diagram and loop..

The boost source can be the original location (black metal fitting) or a T fitting off the DV line.. The original location is preferred if possible.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

FWIW I can document any kind of install.. The problem is Vendors and Manufacturers aren't willing to eat the cost of sending me the parts at a huge discount or free of charge to make it worth the time for me to document these things. Since I generally design and use my own parts, most of the stuff I get I end up putting on someone elses car or just giving away after I've documented and tested it.

Many of the parts out there either have no documentation, or the documentation is in Japanese (and translating Japanese to english using a literal translation ends up looking like the instruction manual for building anything sold by Ikea)

blackevoVII

iTrader: (2)

The problem is, he had the same problem with the stock BOV.

chinto

iTrader: (2)

nice thanks jack ill check all that out i have just taken a picture of my engin ill put marks on it as soon as the person emails it to me and have it shown on how i have it setup to hopefully help other people out




ok did a little color codeing,

Black box is where i have my solenoid mounted ( black evo was nice enough to snap a nother shot of his engin )

red line going to engin compartment is the wire that goes back to the avc-r controler

blue line going to gold ( bronz ) nipple below turbo closest to the radiator ( goes to the COM port on the solenoid )

yellow line going to black nipple bout 3" away from the gold niple tward the engin ( goes to the NO port on the solenoid )

i have no T fittings any were in the solenoid vacume lines

if i have something incorrect tell me and ill fix it

Thanks Jack once again. once my engin cools down ill check it again.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

That looks right to me.. Hopefully everything is working for you now..

chinto

iTrader: (2)

ok think i got my boost situation allmost all the way fixed thanks for all the help Jack. u da man after takeing my intake all the way out found the vacume line going to the black nipple held on with a zip tie and it wasnt tight at all pulled it off and the line was ovaled and not even round ( leaking ) cut the end off found a metal clamp and put every thing back together after cheking every thing many many many many times.

right now im hitting a bit of a cut off when i hit 17 psi cuz the greedy is on the lossest setting i can get it with only the large spring in cranking the screw in some tomarrow in the light then gettn up to 20 psi ill keep you all updated. but every thing looks to be good hope this helps somone down the road haveing simmular issues.