Sounds to me like a ruff break-in. Reving the car high durrung break-in is not as harmful as putting it under heavy load, like flooring it at low RPMs then letting off befor the revs climb to high. It sonds to me like this is how you drove the car. Your better off letting the revs climb high and not loading the motor as much, especialy in a turbo car (you can rev the car to 7,000 and never boost and you can also put 20 psi on it at 4,000). I rember after my break-in (600 miles) I started rolling on the throttle more and more, and the longer I drove it and put more miles on it the car seem to get faster and faster.

This is all my personal opinion and experience with breaking in cars, others have a compleatly different theory on this.

- Erik

 

Things to check:
1. Boost guage, make sure you are hitting the target boost of 1.4 bars and as the rpms climb it should drop.
2. Check for leaks on the plumbing around the intercooler, tighten the clamps on the hoses a little just to make sure there are no leaks.
3. Use up the gas completely and fill it with a full take of a 92-93 oct from a brand you trust.
4. Reset the ECU by disconnecting the negative terminal and stepping on the brakes. That way any timing the was pulled due to knock from bad gas will be erased from memory. Start a fresh.
4. Take it easy on the car during breakin, not going WOT and keeping it under 5000rpm for at least 800miles won't kill you. Everybody has their own opinion on how car should be broken in. Its pointless arguing about that .....

 

Proper break in is to avoid WOT and to keep it less than 5,000 rpm until you reach 600 miles. You are an idiot for trying to make this car "pull hard" any sooner than that. Poor car.

 

"idiot" is pushing it. It's not the break in. Some cars that were pushed hard during break-in have even been said to dyno higher than babied break-ins. That's questionable, but regardless, a harsh break-in won't decrease your power. It would just break something if it was going to do anything.

It's the temperature. Your car, being turboed, will always pull harder under cold weather temperatures.

If it's a drastic loss, it must be a boost leak. But the feeling you describe is most likely the difference of a cold weather pull and a warm weather pull, combined with the fact that you're getting used to the power.

 

I think that your fine with the way you broke in your car.. They say the most critical miles are your first 150 or so as that seats your rings. I was nice to mine for the first 350 miles then I slowly started to get on it. At about 500 miles I had redlined it a few times. At 600 I changed the oil and filter and let it rip. I then changed my oil again at 1000 just to see if I had any more metal flakes in the oil everything is fine with mine. The only thing that I would suggest is to make sure that you get good gas and after you have the good gas in the system reset your computer and let ERRRR rip. I dont think that you will have any problems unless you redlined the car early like under 300 miles or lugged the car by putting the car into a high gear at a low RPM and flooring it causing the car to work hard at a very low RPM. Example ( TopGears test with the MR FQ400 flooring it in sixth gear at like 1500 Rpms).


Thats all I can think of gookluck with the MR

P.S. The weather does make a big difference in performance a nice ECU reset will take care of everything.

Derek

 

Its most probably the combination of the octane difference and warmer weather. I know my car becomes an animal in the 30s and is just plain fast in the 50s (degrees F that is...) Personally I notice a huge difference...Don't worry about the break in period much. I personally think people baby their cars too much during break in. As long as you don't drop the clutch and do a lot of 7K rpm shifts you should be fine.

 

Thanks for the advice 34Turbo. I have to concur after we went from 20-25 degrees when I picked it up to almost 55 over the last couple of days when I topped off the gas and I started noticing the difference.

DaWorstPlaya, it is hitting around 1.4-1.5 bars and then gradually dropping as the RPMs build. I will try your advice and use up the gas I have and fill it up with 93 octane from Holiday and then disconnect the - terminal and then step on the brakes to flush the engine timing from memory....I did not know you could do this on the MR, so thanks for the TIP!

sixspeed4dr, trow your insults around elsewhere.

Everyone else, thank-you for responding!

 

So basically just fill up the gas tank with NEW gas.

Disconnect the connection from the negative terminal on the battery. Any suggestion how long I should leave it disconnected to PURGE the memory completely?

Do I step on the brakes after a given period of time or immediately after disconnecting the battery?

 

Just park turn off your car, open the hood, diconect the negetive terminal for 10-15 minutes. Then reconnect it start the car and let it idle for a few minutes and your done.

 

true true

 

stopper is to keep your foot from going threw the floor.

 

Awesome information on this forum...reminds me alot of the MazdaSPEED forum I was on. Thanks again.

 

have a friend drive it and the WOT will be unexpected.

 

I think ur just getting use to it too.

 

I totally disagree with this.. for all the engines we build you want to do
the exact opposite of this.. avoid high revs early on in break in. But to
seat the rings properly you want to put a load on the car and start in say
4th gear at a low rpm let it build up to a certian mid range rpm( say 4k
max) and let off.. idle back down and do it off and on.. Open highway
miles are the worst for breakin.. in town, constent rpm changes under load
is best for proper ring seating ..



I got my MR end of November and if feels just as fast after break in, and
i also have a 10 sec street bike!



Mark

SBR