Your used to the car now, thats why it feels like its slower and you've lost power 8- ) When I first got my evo, I was like holy crap this **** pulls hard as hell. Now, I punch it and I already know how much power it gots so nothing suprising. Usually feel it pull harder for every mod that I add.

 

And it's actually good when u get used to it cuz now u know what to expect. Before, your brain couldn't wrap itself around that acceleration feeling, now, you know what to expect and you can use it better...that's when it really gets fun.

 

Hey Mark,

I'd have to say I have been doing that in a sense. When I drive highway I am always using 6th to keep the RPM's low to get the best gas mileage, so in a sense I am kinda doing what you are indicating for load.

City, I actually drive a fair amount of and have during break-in, and I agree just like my 998 or your R1; highway driving is the worst for a motorcycle because most people will just get it up to whatever gear/RPM's on the highway and then just hold it there and NOT vary the RPM's like they should be from shifting in and out of gear. Since I drive a fair amount of city miles I am continually shifting in/out of gear varying the load on the car.

I also broke my 998 in completely different. After about 50 miles to get the tires scrubbed to get the residue off them, I drove the bike all out, the way I normally would after a given break-in. My friend however did the complete opposite, and "BABIED" his, and ended up not seating/sealing his pistons/seals properly and had continual oil leakage problems.

My personal opinion with a high performance motorcycle is break them in the way you would drive them normally during break-in without thrashing them like bouncing off the rev limiter or just plain abusing them, and 8/10 people that I have talked to including a Ducati race mechanic have agree'd with this.

A car on the other hand I get more differing opinions on what I stated above.

 

My MR had a boost leak stock. I put on the hi-torque hose clamps that RRE sells and gained a full pound of boost. I could easily feel the difference. Also the boost taper effect is greater on the '05s than the earlier Evos. 21.5 -> 18 vs. 20 -> 18

There is a dip in torque at 5500 that is a result of the more severe boost taper in the MR. If you started pushing it in that rev range it will feel less punchy. That drop off at higher rpms is a trait of stock Evos. If you are used to the top end rush of a liter bike then it is even more obvious.

Simple tuning can make the top power open up right to the redline.

 

section 3-2 in the owners manual for my 2004 says
Avoid revving the engine. Do not exceed 5,000 rpm for the first 600 miles.
Avoid rough driving such as fast starts, prolonged high speed driving and rough shifting for the first 300 miles.
Avoid sudden braking for the first 300 miles.



So saying that you didnt redline for extended periods of time as your defence is pretty weak, you knew what you were doing. The fact that you even floored the pedal and went over 5,000 rpms says you abused the car and did not follow breakin period. I know it is tempting especially in the evo but the down the road performance is more important. I guess you found out the hard way. This is a classic example of someone who will go to mitsubishi and complain about their poor quality of parts when he never even read the owners manual.



"Did i read the owners manual? of course not."

 

dude, if you lay on the brakes, as that says, you're gonna squeal for BLOCKS at a time. The brakes need a few good 70-30's to set them in. As far as driving it, just drive it normal. i varied between low load, 3-4rpm, and high load, mild boost conditions.

oil changed at 1200. I think you're getting used to it.

and the boost drops more than people have said, it goes from 1.4 or so, down to about 1- 1.1 (14-15 psi) at redline. It's computer controlled. Get a manual controller and a tune, and have some fun.

 

The break-in period is definitely important, but if you are consciously thinking about it and not pushing the car regularly then there shouldn't be a noticeable difference. My guess is the temperature is playing a large factor (you gain 2% more HP for every 10*F decrease in intake charge), and you are also getting used to the speed & turbo spool-up. BlueBlurSTi has a good point - if you take a ride in the car instead of driving it yourself, you will definitely feel how fast the car really is. I don't think it's anything you should really worry about, but reawakening your original feelings for the car with a few mods won't hurt.

And mrmefodman - real men don't need instructions. (lol jk)

 

[QUOTE=erikgj If you are used to the top end rush of a liter bike then it is even more obvious.]QUOTE]
If you think the "duck" is on par with the rest of the literbikes' acceleration that is..I raced a 998 10 times in a night at different scenerios even to the point that I gave him a head start and reeled him in and thats on a 750 gixxer no driver error on both ends..998 is a damn nice bike but nothing close to the new literbikes af far as acceleration.Sorry I know off topic but I couldn't resist, v-twin boys around here are so hostile they've turned me into a rebel myself.

 

[QUOTE=Petey Turbo]I was just talking about power delivery. do like Ducs BTW.

 

By the way Einstein I read the owners manual the first night I had the car. Those are "RECOMMENDED" break-in instructions. You can interpret them how you like.

They are a guide line not the norm. I could talk to 90/100 people and they would tell you to drive the vehicle the way you would normally, but AVOID dropping the clutch, slamming and bouncing off the REV limiter, etc. for the first 200-300 miles, and I did this.

If in your infinite wisdom you are trying to tell me that there isn't a certain amount of tolerance to occasionally go over 5000 RPM during break-in then you know absolutely NOTHING about cars, bikes, or anything to do with "break-in".

How do you abuse your car by going over 5000 RPM in the first 300 miles? Weak...

Actually I went to the dealership I bought the car at and told them precisely what I stated on this thread and they did the following -

1. Test drove the car
2. Manually checked the boost and found it to be boosting at a max 1.3 bars or 19.1 PSI which are the factory specifications
3. They verified any and all potential areas that could cause a boost leak, for instance clamps, hoses, etc.

Also, learn how to spell defense before trying to pass yourself off as someone who should be offering advice to me on what I should or shouldn't be doing.

I never claimed they had poor quality of parts...where the HELL are you getting your information from? Have you even read the whole thread?

Oh, wait...another IDIOT that forgot to read first!

Keep your nose out of this thread and mind your own business moron!

As I have confirmed after 3200 miles I have just gotten used to the power. Also, every new performance car feels "TIGHT" when you first drive it which gives a false sensation of how the car performs.

Also, I found a good place that sells NON-oxygenated gas and have been filling up there for the last couple of tanks. I disconnected the negative terminal on the ECU and stepped on the break and turned the key in the ignition to clear out any remaining current to the ECU.

This seems to have made a slight difference, of course it's probably more of a placebo affect on my brain than anything.

Thanks to eveyone who offered up advice with constructive criticism. I don't mind constructive criticism with advice, but to just come into a thread and SPOUT off and insult me pisses me off and gives you no credibility in my mind.