Couldn't agree with you more!

 

Yeah test for a boost leak, maybe the stock bov is leaking?

 

Mark said the BOV wasnt the problem and all my clamps are ratcheted down nice and tight.. The dyno seem to read very low in the morning, but all the afternoon pulls were reading much higher....

 

I agree, change your plugs especially if you were riding around without a tune for a little while.

 

Looking at your mods, I don't see a problem.
MMC Brushed Aluminum Shift Knob...Bling
UKDM Badge......................................Bling
Perrin Shorty Antenna.......................Bling
Defi-D Boost Gauge...........................Monitor/Bling
Seibon Carbon Fiber Hood.................Bling
Blitz DTT DCII Turbo Timer..................Preference/Bling
Injen Intake.......................................? power adder
Injen Upper I/C Piping........................Bling...no real power
Helix 3" Downpipe..............................Power
Ultimate Racing 3" Testpipe...............Power
Helix 3" Catback.................................Power
Walbro 255lph Fuel pump..................Safety
Hallman Pro RX MBC...........................Power

That is 4 power mods and 3 that may add something after cam install, plus a Mustang will show low power anyway.
When Mark tuned mine with only a UTEC and Tanabe downpide he had to stop at 240hp because of clutch slip.

 

Man, I was offering to do a pressure and compression test on your car and you keep talking about things not being the problem. I bet if I did a pressure test on your car you would see leaks and if you are using the stock bpv that is leaking for sure under full load. Never mind though you keep bench racing.

 

Basically it is a full exhaust and a manual boost controller. So not too bad. I would look for a boost leak if you are sure that it should be higher. I gained a full 1 PSI boost because the stock hose clamps had a leak. It surprised me. I switched to the high-torque clamps that RRE sells.

 

why dont u dyno again in the afternoon ?

 

Because I not gonna waste another $100+ on another dyno run

 

EVOs with only TBE with Hiflo Cat and MBC were putting down numbers of 30 more HP on the same dyno.

 

I agree, it is better to test for these things than to assume there is no problem. I agree that these cars can dyno up to 30whp off stock, but there is normaly a cause for that. Like a leaky bov, or a boost leak. You need to do tests before you write off a leak. I had a Supra went to the dyno couldnt pass 350whp which was severly low for the mods, came home did a boost leak test found a crack in my valve cover. Replaced the valve cover and dynod 446whp. Look for a boost leak!!!

 

That would great, thanks. I missed your post eariler (or didnt read through it completely as I was drinking quite heavily last night) BTW what is bench racing? Im sending a PM now.

 

maybe you got one of those 'lemon' evos
whats your trap time at the 1/4mile?

 

Dont launch or race my car...

 

Guys, if you are going to compare a DynoJet to a Mustang Dyno, you have to add 17 percent more. In your case 262 whp (Mustang Dyno) equals 306 whp Dynojet. And your Torque is 272 Mustang Dyno and that equals 318 Lbs.
That should make you feel better. You need to buy a Wide Band and install a tuning device on your car. Don't expect to rock the Dyno with the aid of just a flash. And at 19-20 psi you are not going to rock the Dyno either. 23+ psi and then you are talking. By the way, that red Evo that Dynowed 293 whp there with less mods was runing over 23 psi. There is your difference. Up your boost and you will make more power.
The AeroComp Dyno does not read that low. Is very accurate +/- 7 percent. That is not bad. I have compared the numbers from theirs to the Dyno at Central Florida Turbo. Both Dynos are very similar. May be you have some other issues to take care off. Boost leak could be one of them just like everyone else says. Still, not bad for the mods you have.
By the way guys, you can get over 300 whp on a Mustang Dyno without cams. I know someone who does..