The reason why i had suggested a boost leak was because ,, on the very first pull his BOV came out of the pipe because it wasnt clamped down. Clamped it down, then i noticed his boost source going off of the turbo pipe, had a 2 inch piece of vacuum hose with a bolt in it to plug it up. He was using a boost source t'd off the BOV. So ,, thats why i told him to check for leaks. The car did dyno low,,, he had a full exhaust , no cat and put up 220 ,, Even guys that had dyno'd before on the same dyno baselines 20-30 lower this weekend on it. Like i said on another thread , i dont know how it was setup but i was a bit nervous when they had the manual out for the dyno in the beginning.. Its the overall gains that matter and picking up 30whp from a flash is right. So all i can say is go to the track and lets look at the trap speeds ..

Mark
turbotrix

 

Someone local has offered to run a compression test and test for boost leaks, so Im gonna check that next weekend. As for a 2 inch piece of vacuum hose coming off the turbo with a bolt in it, must have been someone else car. The turbo nipple on my car is capped off with a vacuum cap and zip tied down. I'' keep ya post with what I found out.

Thanks Mark!!

 

Hey Krafy.. I have cams and I only put down 302 hp, and 297 torque. I for some reason don't feel like killing myself. I think you are flipping out over nothing. There are 6 pages of you just *****ing. I'm not trying to be an ***, but do a compression check and check for a boost leak. I don't know what else to tell you.

 

def agre. 260 would be around 300 whp on a dyno jet. maybe more.

 

1. Compression test
2. Boost leak(spray soapy water on everything)
3. Spark plugs(you ran the 255 for awhile so they might be fouled a bit)
4. Turn psi up to 21-22
5. Clutch slipping??????
6. Retune

What if you got some crappy gas? Try another brand of gas. I filled up with a different brand one day cause it was the closest and my car ran like crap until i filled it up again. Felt like my car was in limp mode and had no power.

 

Maybe I'm missing something here. I went back prior to your post looking for people that were comparing dynos. I couldn't find anything even closely relating to what you're saying.

The only variable I read was that some dyno'd in the morning and some in the afternoon. Pretty sure they didn't change out the dyno at lunch.


krafty, if you reread Mark's post, he sounded like that, perhaps, the owners(?) didn't have the BEST knowledge of how to operate their dyno. Could it be that they changed some of the parameters from am to pm. Things like vehicle weight and HP at 50 mph (and these are operator manipulated) make a huge difference in produced numbers.

 

Good luck man... I hope you get the power and numbers that you're looking for.

 

Guys - the number a dyno spits out is of practically zero practical use

First of all - it seems that the gains in tuning made with your reflash tune were very good. All that should matter to you is how the car drives on the road and how the final curve looks.

You dont drive your car on a dyno so the loading and tune will vary on the road

Secondly - all these mustang dynos read differently becuase the operators can alter the two main calibrations - drum weight and correction factor which can creat huge variations in the way the dyno reads from dyno to dyno or run to run.

I dont like any dynos which can be manuiplated as a selling tool or bragging device.

IMHO - the only dyno which numbers I can resonably reliy upon for dyno to dyno comparision is dyno jet as there is no way to alter the way the dyno reads

Finally - the real test of your power is your trap speed in the 1/4 mile and mph gain in the back 1/8th of the quarter mile.

I( think you obviously got a great tune based upon your gain in power - don't strees on the dyno number - its just ink on a page.

 

I concur with you 100% and agree that the gains you made with the tune were very well done - that is all that matters and the real purpose of dynos.

Hopefully we can better educate our customers and the general evolutionm community that dyno numbers are most useful when used to compare the changes on a particular car - on a particular dyno to see what is making power (more or less) on that particular car. This is the best use of dynos - to be able to qucikly see and quantify how much power a mod or tuning change is making.

I find it silly when people are so caught up in a dyno number. What really matters is the DIFFERENCE between your base pull and final pull - which in this case was very good. The number itself is irrelevant - especially on a mustang dyno

Just my two cents.

 

what an idiot

 

Try pulling a dyno-run on a Dynojet. You'll probably see a number that will look better to you. But remember, it's still just a number, the car's still the same.

I ran 249.6 on a Dynodynamics with the catback, downpipe, and Xflash. My friend ran 278 on a Dynojet with the same thing but he had an AEM intake (I think....I forgot which brand) and the Works P2 flash.

 

what kinda tool do u use to check boost leak?

 

Vacuum gauge,ears help too.

 

As posted in the "Dyno'd The Evo for the first time" thread:

Wow, how quickly people start talking about things they don't even know about. I was the operator of the dyno on Saturday. I have been operating Mustang dyno's since 2000, so I know how to use one very well. As far as the manual that was out at the beginning, it had NOTHING to do with the Mustang dyno. The manual was for the ATI SmartTach rpm sensor, and I pulled it out to check one of its settings because sometimes you have to adjust it by the type of car you're working with.

Also, as far as configuration of the dyno, it was not tampered with at all throughout the day. It is also as it came from Mustang and NONE of the parameters have been changed. I leave them at their default settings just so that people don't complain about inflated dyno #'s. Once again the settings were the same for every car throughout the day.

Someone mentioned something earlier about the hp @ 50 being at 13. That has to do with a cars aerodynamics. It is how much power the car needs to maintain 50 mph with wind resistance. It varies from car to car, and Mustang has a catalog with almost every car since the 70's and it's appropriate hp @ 50 number.

Sorry that your car didn't make the power you were expecting, but it wasn't from the dyno being tampered with or adjusted at some point.

 

Much props on the bad *** DSM on your web site - that car is art