yes tuning! i will get my car flashed soon for my mods especially my intake. piece of crap...did anyone else with a typhoon get the instructions that show the bov installed backwards like me?

 

Only use the mfr recommended plugs or something very close. Tried a few types and my car didn't approve. I had much more knock and the car missed.

 

Best bang for the buck in this order: Cat back, high flow cat and downpipe, flash or piggy back = 70 horsepower for a little as $1,200 ($800 exhaust + $350 flash) to $2,000 ($800 exhaust + $1,000 Exede). Next; cams = 30 to 40 more horsepower for $1,000 to $1,500 installed. Last FMIC and Intercooler to Intake pipe; both $1,000 not installed and get maybe 15 horsepower.

 

Tuning seems to be the word in this thread. I will have Apexi air filter and Helix turbo-back exhaust installed next week. At this time I'm not planning to touch the ECU. If I get you guys correctly, you're saying that I'm not getting the full potential of these parts, or in the worst case even might lose some power. Problem is that around here 99% of the ECU-flashes are made to group N rally cars. This means that ECU-maps are somewhat different what one would use on the road. Also, everyone of them also says that this requires stronger connecting rods, which is seriously money-intensive mod. Any thoughts on this? Am I just throwing money away for not tuning my EVO after these mods?

Or maybe I'll just get the rods and a little "beefier" flash. And while we're at it and the engine is opened get new cams also, and maybe new clutch and...

 

DON"T ever run lean.

Don't do dry n2o kit.

Don't get cheap springs

Don't Get an Intake unless you get it tuned (a/f) right afterwards, you'll run lean or have lean spots.

Don't run Cams without Tune or reflash

Don't cheat on your girlfriend, she'll blow your car up

Don't let your friend who drives N/A car drive your car, he'll blow it

Don't fall asleep while driving

Don't street race in highway, unless you're ready to run away from cops with a full tank of gas

 

evo bill,i wouldn't pay $1500 for cams and install. ouch

 

I thought that stock EVO runs on the rich side so that changing only air filter would not cause any problems. Since I'm going to do that I would like to have opinions on this. I'll get wideband a/f gauge though, just to make sure. What is the a/f ratio one should get worried?

 

It a good idea to PLAN where you want to end up long term, and them draw out a plan with a good tuner - get it right the first time, and you save yourself some grief.

You simply have to do some research and take notes. Balance your mods - eg common mistake might be puting a new intake & exhaust, boost controller, blow off valve, flash, etc, etc, and forget to upgrade your fuel pump.

Keep looking for info

 

YOu can still do it piece by piece - so you know if you have problems after each upgrade / stage, where to trouble shoot, but you are still working towards a known goal.

 

that just made my day better lol you are right about the girlfriend thing she has already warned me about cheating.

 

nicely said.

 

The Evo uses a Karman-type airflow sensor that has a "bluff body" which extends into the intake stream. Laminar flow builds up on each side of this bluff body, and alternately breaks, and the frequency of this oscillation can then be interpreted by the ECU, and translated into a flow rate. This is why the the MAF sensor output is a somewhat sinusoidal waveform.

That said, the bluff body must be allowed to have laminar flow build up on it, so it won't work in turbulent airflow, and I think the common conception is that most aftermarket open intakes have some degree of turbulence that that prevents the alternating build up of laminar flow on the bluff body, which would either cause the form to A) be corrupted, or B) effect the natural frequency the system oscillates at for a given flow rate.

My theory is that if an aftermarket open filter type elements does indeed have some sort of turbulence that corrupts the signal, that would be obvious on any plot from a digital oscillosope from the MAF. Missing peaks on the waveform, etc.. As far as affecting the natural frequency, you think you would be able to determine if that was the case from looking at a wide band A/F meter, and seeing if the open filter element made a big difference to A/F ratio.

Has anyone done any testing? As far as I know the open filter debate is still, well, open.

 

Alright people thanx for all the help....... i'm goin to keep all of it in mind and when i get a little extra money start it off........ this might be a stupid question but im new tot he automotive world.......Where can i get it tuned after installing parts ?

 

it All depends there are several tuner's Al Friedman Shiv , TurboTrix Ams. its up to you who you want to tune your vechile take in consideration in location if they are in town thats better for your part can go to them anytime take care hope this helped you out bro

 

Do not think that you have a waranty .
Do not let anyone fill your T-case with anything else than OEM dynaqueen . And by anyone I mean the DEALER also .
Do not let your car wheelhop if doing a aggressive launch .
Do not think that the Advan's will stop in the snow .