hi guys.

just wondering if there is a writeup somewhere on the steps to removing the clutch line restrictor valve/spring.... i looked in the "how-to" section but didn't see anything?

just want to know the easiest way to go about it; from the top, remove the airbox, etc, or from underneath?

thanx
todd

 

there is a write up on why you shouldn't.

look on drivetrain, under act.

 

from the top and remove the battery and airbox
www.evomoto.com did have a write up at one time. dont know if any other write up is out there. i think i might just have to put another how-to together.....

 

I think that there is a split on if this is a good or bad idea (each to their own.) I had mine done, and I like the feel of the clutch better now. I was at 13K miles before I did it, clutch still in good shape...but I didn't like the "feel". Much better now.

 

just dont drop your clutch at high rpm.. or youll be posting how to replace your clutch and t/c..

 

perhaps I should add, I'm not a drag racer. I come from a road racing background where there is a huge emphasis on taking it easy on the car so you can cross the finish...
On a side note, I spoke with a guy where I get my work done (customer), and he has 70+ launches on his stock clutch (pill removed) and he's putting down close to 400whp with his...I know that's not common, but it demonstrated to me that the pill removal alone won't cause your clutch to die.

 

lets see what happens when he changes that clutch too something with a higher clamping load..most people dont have the control too moderate the clutch pedal so they dont blow things up.. myself do not have that kind of control, but i dont drag race anymore.. 70 plus launches, is he launching at 3000 rpms..

 

I believe ACTman endorses removing the disk. It is a simple job. Remove the air box Detach the fluid supply line and plug it to keep fluid drainage to a min. Unbolt take off the slave cylinder. Remove the bleeder valve from the slave then poke out the disk and spring from the fluid supply side but pushing a small dowel throught bung in the slave cyl. Once your put things back and the system is bleed you are good to go. It took me about an hour and I did it by myself. FWIW You can drill a larger hole in the disk if you want to preserve some of its protection yet wnat better feel and control. I love to drag race but not with my Evo, I bought it for the twisties.

 

i will agre its a good mod. but for what i do too my car i need the safety that the restrictor has...

 

he's doing 5K launches, and running some solid times...and what a hot car. He has most of us drooling, but that's a bit off topic....

 

hi guys.

thanx for the replys! i won't be drag racing with this car; i just don't like the slightly "spongy" engagement feeling of the clutch; i think that the clutch release is slowed down, and during swift upshifts and downshifts, i have to wait those extra couple of fractions of a second or it feels like i am forcing the gears and the clutch is still dragging slightly...

i thought i'd try removing the restrictor to see if it helps....

i have never "launched" the car in 19k miles of ownership.

thanx

todd