I'll shoot them a PM later and see what they say.

Anybody else want to chime in with their build path and what you would recommend?

 

Anybody? You don't have to tell me what parts you have how about what compression, rod length on the stroker, what head gasket works better, etc, etc...

 

Nobody knows or has any stories they want to share?

 

Hey I just wanted to say that with the correct sup. mods lag and streetability are not even an issue with a stroked motor and gt35r anyway my car literally spools like stock you would have to datalog to see any differance and most of my races have been with cars that were spraying and had around 500 to 700ish hp and when we hit it at the same time they only jumped about a 1/4 to 1/2 car and that was without brake boosting.

 

Are you using the 4g64? What compression did you choose and what rod length?

 

It's stock compression and the AMS stroker kit. I don't know the rod length (shamefully to say) but it is the 4g63 with the 4g64 crank.

 

Did you do any head work or just left it stock? Sounds like you have a nice setup. I'm thinking the 4g64 is the way to go with the higher deck.

 

Yea the head is done as well. I don't know much about the 4g64 though.

 

the gt35r is fine and does great for all things if tuning is done properly and the exhaust manifold is a good equal length unit. I have had stock modified turbo , gt30r and now a gt35r and am making 489 awhp on 93 octane and 50/50 alky/water injection and drive it daily. Its great and the motor is stock other then gsc cams and $80 head bolts. It is safe and runs at most 17 degree's of timing . I have my motor internals setup and will be building the motor once i get used to how fast 600+ crank hp is. I will first be replacing my toasted clutch with a triple disc exedy and going back to the track to run some fast times (hopefully much faster then my 11.5's at 123mph with my old gt30r /non-equal length manifold and pump gas reflash tune). I hope for 11.2 ish at 125mph on the 93 octane and alky injection. I assure you all that a well setup and effecient gt35r is good for anything. The only thing is for autocross it may still spool a tad to slow but mainly be too much power and cause too much wheel spin and additionally on road courses it would be too much for me to control and be fast and safe.
Dave

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=140077

btw here is a link to the mods and a list

Slickmotorsports gt35r equal length manifold turbo kit
Slickmotorsports 3 inch intercooler piping with precision intercooler core (3.5 inch)
Buschur racing 880cc injectors
walbro 255 pump
Buschur racing 3 inch cat back with slickmotorsports turbo kit included downpipe and o2 housing (badass)
Buschur racing alky kit (14psi starting and 18psi max)
Slickmotorsports intake (4 inch pipe with hks filter)
GSC 272/264 I/E setup (awesome !)
arp headbolts
aem ems with 3.5bar map tuned by TYM Switzer (great work there for sure and had fun at the shop today!)
clutchmasters clutch (junk smoked it !!!!!!) (will be switching to a awesome exedy triple carbon soon!)
hallman in-car adjustable boost controller from www.boostcontrollers.com (amazing item for sure)

 

this is kinda what i want to do

 

Evodave, you have alot of the same parts I will be using. What i'm trying to find out though is what compression alot of people are using or have switched to while using the 4g64 block. What rod length? What if anything should be done that I might be forgetting about? Anybody cryo treat their parts or teflon coat them?

 

cryo is good...so is swain coating the pistons. I have the stock motor so i couldn't tell you anything about rod lengths.
Dave

 

I hit the 600awhp mark awhile back before many of today's options were available such as the AMS, Buschur, RNR kits etc. I regret many of the decisions that I originally made but options at the time were limited. Here's what I've learned and what I'd do differently:

-1st mistake was a TODA 2.3L stroker kit. What a rip off! And to make it worse I bought it from Vivid which has to be the worst vendor that I've ever dealt with, full of sh*t and clueless doesn't begin to describe them. Thank God I used American Express to purchase from them, without the help of Amex I'm not sure I would have ever received the stroker kit. They misrepresented many of the products that I bought from them and would actually give me made up tracking numbers. They said that they had this kit in stock but some how it took them 4 months to deliver it. The Toda pistons are excellent, however the rods are weaker than stock and the crank is basically an OEM 4g64 crank. I replaced the Toda rods with Pauter but used the Toda pistons and crank. It's been a reliable setup but an expensive leason.

I live in Denver and used the car mostly for drag racing. The Denver altitude effects spool time by almost 20% so I wanted the added displacement to help compensate for the effects of high altitude. If I lived at sea level I would have stuck with a built 2.0L for drag but I still think that a stroker and big turbo would be fun in the twisties.

In my opinion the best 2.3L kit available today is made by Crower. The best 2.4L made today is by Magnus with the custom rod length. If I were to start over I'd go with Crower.

The turbo kit that I used was an HKS 3240. Keep in mind that the AMS 35R and RNR 35R were not yet available. The HKS kit worked extremely well for me, no cracked manifold, etc. The spool time for such a large turbo was excellent. The only downside was the $6500.00 price tag. Today I'd go with the AMS 35r. The RNR 35r looks nice but their service is terrible. I bought a custom 4g64 crank from them (I believe that they had it built by Pauter) and a two week lead time turned into 3 months. Every week I received the same "It will ship tomorrow" response. I can handle long lead times but I won't tolerate flat out lies. I've bought several products from AMS including a stage 3 head and their service and knowledge is excellent. I'd highly recommend them to anyone.

I used an Exedy dual disk clutch and had great results with it. I believe that it is a great clutch if properly installed. Once again, my options were limited back then. Today I use an ATS triple carbon/carbon clutch but my horsepower is now well above 600whp.

I had a Buschur FMIC (excellent vendor and great product). RMR exhaust which was one of the first available for the Evo. I've been very pleased with it.

I also went with the Autronic standalone and couldn't be happier. I've found it to be more user friendly than the AEM but they're both good products. It all comes down to what the person doing the tuning is most familiar with, I don't think that you can go wrong with either product. Don't let anyone fool you though. The drivability with a standalone is different as compared to a stock ECU or flash. Anyone who has tried to start their car when it's 20F outside will no exactly what I mean. Their are a few quirks that you have to learn to live with when you go to a standalone. Many people have no problem living with these "quirks" but I wouldn't want to drive a 600HP Evo everyday. Whenever I drive it to work I wind up spilling my quad Venti vanilla low foam half no fat milk Starbucks Latte on my dress shirt once that turbo spools.

I've run an 11.4 @ 125 MPH at 5800 ft above sea level with this setup. The car in now in Philly being built again. I was amazed at the difference in performance between sea level and altitude. The 1.22 correction factor that is used when dyno tuning is fairly accurate IMO up here. I had my car dnyoed in Denver with a 1.22 correction factor and in Philly with no correction factor and the results on a dynojet were within 5%. The HKS maxed out at 27psi up here but easily made 32psi without additional tuning at sea level. It's a whole different ball game when you have air.

In summary with 600whp being your goal:
1. Crower 2.3L or Magnus 2.4L
2. AMS 35r turbo kit
3. AMS supporting mods (FMIC, exhaust, piping, etc.)
4. HKS 272 cams
5. AMS fuel system upgrade
6. AMS head work
7. Autronic or AEM standalone
8. ATS or Exedy triple carbon/carbon clutch
9. Be prepared for a tranny upgrade and TC upgrade (Team Ripp)
10. Make sure that you can afford to fix things because they will break.

Best vendors IMO:
1. Z1auto
2. AMS
3. Buschur

Avoid IMO:
1. Vivid
2. RNR

Good luck!

 

Thank you very much 3240. This is exactly the type of response I am looking for.

After looking at the crower kit yesturday I have to agree about it being the best or right up to par with the best. Only thing that scares me about Magnus is how far away it is since I'm in Atl, GA.

Who went with 8.5 compression compared to 9? Does it really matter and if so what kind of boost levels would be safe with each?