Keeping engine cool on roadcourse
Originally Posted by availpunk9
you would get a better effect if you ran 100% water. antifreeze doesn't help you cool your engine.
read the side of the package, it has a wider span of use than just cold temps.
we all know water boils at 212.
on the side of the can in my garage, boils at 265 degrees (50/50) or 276 (70 antifreeze/30 water).
Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
wrong.
read the side of the package, it has a wider span of use than just cold temps.
we all know water boils at 212.
on the side of the can in my garage, boils at 265 degrees (50/50) or 276 (70 antifreeze/30 water).
read the side of the package, it has a wider span of use than just cold temps.
we all know water boils at 212.
on the side of the can in my garage, boils at 265 degrees (50/50) or 276 (70 antifreeze/30 water).
Well...not to rain on your parade either, but that has very little to do with the label on the side of your anti freeze bottle and more to do with the physics of pressure and raising the boiling point water. If you are running on the track, ditch the anti freeze altogether and run water wetter. If you do spit some water I'll have a better chance of staying on the track! For ulitmate cooling, read the side of the WATER WETTER bottle...you'll come pretty close.
Run the thing the invisible guy keeps recommending, water wetter mixed correctly, and running a little rich will keep the cylinder walls a little cooler helping with the oil temp, not the opposite someone stated earlier. If you are a late braker...no pad will save you in this car on the brakes. It needs air, air, air. The stock brake ducts that you can buy from Mistu would do a better job than not.
Originally Posted by bdiddy
Well...not to rain on your parade either, but that has very little to do with the label on the side of your anti freeze bottle and more to do with the physics of pressure and raising the boiling point water. If you are running on the track, ditch the anti freeze altogether and run water wetter. If you do spit some water I'll have a better chance of staying on the track! For ulitmate cooling, read the side of the WATER WETTER bottle...you'll come pretty close.
Run the thing the invisible guy keeps recommending, water wetter mixed correctly, and running a little rich will keep the cylinder walls a little cooler helping with the oil temp, not the opposite someone stated earlier. If you are a late braker...no pad will save you in this car on the brakes. It needs air, air, air. The stock brake ducts that you can buy from Mistu would do a better job than not.
Run the thing the invisible guy keeps recommending, water wetter mixed correctly, and running a little rich will keep the cylinder walls a little cooler helping with the oil temp, not the opposite someone stated earlier. If you are a late braker...no pad will save you in this car on the brakes. It needs air, air, air. The stock brake ducts that you can buy from Mistu would do a better job than not.
I have mixed emotions about the water wetter, with some people ending up with gunkified water, slime, etc, and the being told to run no protection against corrosion or electrolosis (sp?).
so far, i'm running direct stock mix. When i install my pillar pod in a week or so, i'll have a much better idea on temps, etc to make a better decision. Just too much of a grey area to just hop on the water wetter bandwagon and hope for the best, ya know?
Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
yes, but the issue here is a boiling temp. water is more "effective" at cooling than water + antifreeze. But, if the car is up to a temp above 225? your water's gonna boil.
I have mixed emotions about the water wetter, with some people ending up with gunkified water, slime, etc, and the being told to run no protection against corrosion or electrolosis (sp?).
so far, i'm running direct stock mix. When i install my pillar pod in a week or so, i'll have a much better idea on temps, etc to make a better decision. Just too much of a grey area to just hop on the water wetter bandwagon and hope for the best, ya know?
I have mixed emotions about the water wetter, with some people ending up with gunkified water, slime, etc, and the being told to run no protection against corrosion or electrolosis (sp?).
so far, i'm running direct stock mix. When i install my pillar pod in a week or so, i'll have a much better idea on temps, etc to make a better decision. Just too much of a grey area to just hop on the water wetter bandwagon and hope for the best, ya know?
Read a physics book, they have lots of cool pictures too....
Well,
I drive to win......so I agree with Nils too! We both have Robispec set up cars. I installed 3 coolers:
PWR 57mm radiator....biggest in EVO possible...water temps state at or below 110 celsius
PWR upgraded oil cooler....not sure it really was an upgrade...oil hits 230-235 celsius
PWR power steering cooler....must help...big 275/40 on 9.5" rims get system hot. Safe now.
I too added the Red Line water wetter....who knows if it really works?
While we are on it. I run the Red Line Heavy Duty shock proof in diff, BG synchroshift in tranny, and kept the stock in the rear because I couldn't find the right Red Line product for replacement. All good so far!
I drive to win......so I agree with Nils too! We both have Robispec set up cars. I installed 3 coolers:
PWR 57mm radiator....biggest in EVO possible...water temps state at or below 110 celsius
PWR upgraded oil cooler....not sure it really was an upgrade...oil hits 230-235 celsius
PWR power steering cooler....must help...big 275/40 on 9.5" rims get system hot. Safe now.
I too added the Red Line water wetter....who knows if it really works?
While we are on it. I run the Red Line Heavy Duty shock proof in diff, BG synchroshift in tranny, and kept the stock in the rear because I couldn't find the right Red Line product for replacement. All good so far!
Originally Posted by bdiddy
Ha! The water wetter "bandwagon" has probably been around for longer than you have been alive, but that's cool. *pun intended. Oh... and you are STILL wrong on the boiling point, but I don't want to get into it.
Read a physics book, they have lots of cool pictures too....
Read a physics book, they have lots of cool pictures too....
if it was a godsend, why are there people out there, that have used it, that have the same attitude on water wetter, as everyone should on fix-a-flat.
And unless you wanna link something... basic logic says a boiling point is just that... where something boils. From reading all the water wetter tech stuff, you realize they're saying straight water ( or even water with water wetter) is more effective at "dissapating" the heat.. (run an engine for this long, temp stabilizes at this temp... run it same time with antifreeze, stabilizes higher, etc, etc.)
Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
yeah, and it's gunked up cars older, and newer than i am.
if it was a godsend, why are there people out there, that have used it, that have the same attitude on water wetter, as everyone should on fix-a-flat.
And unless you wanna link something... basic logic says a boiling point is just that... where something boils. From reading all the water wetter tech stuff, you realize they're saying straight water ( or even water with water wetter) is more effective at "dissapating" the heat.. (run an engine for this long, temp stabilizes at this temp... run it same time with antifreeze, stabilizes higher, etc, etc.)
if it was a godsend, why are there people out there, that have used it, that have the same attitude on water wetter, as everyone should on fix-a-flat.
And unless you wanna link something... basic logic says a boiling point is just that... where something boils. From reading all the water wetter tech stuff, you realize they're saying straight water ( or even water with water wetter) is more effective at "dissapating" the heat.. (run an engine for this long, temp stabilizes at this temp... run it same time with antifreeze, stabilizes higher, etc, etc.)
I don't want to have this conversation, because it's pointless.
Here's your link: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/bo...er-24_926.html
Originally Posted by MitsubishZ
I just beat the hell out of my MR at thunderhill on a 100+ degree day. Temp never budged.
Originally Posted by MitsubishZ
I just beat the hell out of my MR at thunderhill on a 100+ degree day. Temp never budged.
That said, my aftermarket greddy gauge only hit 99c on a 98degree day at thunderhill but my oil temps where still approx 120c.
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Originally Posted by GDB
Here're my "budget" solution to cool the car down for track use:
1. Tomei oil thermostat killer. HKS apparently makes one too.
2. Ralliart water thermotstat. This IIRC reduces the 'trigger' temp to 71C (i.e. at 71C the water starts flowing to the radiator, instead of the stock temp of 80's?? Sorry if I'm wrong with the details)
3. I had my mech run a T-junction off the intercooler waterspray; he installed two nozzles spraying the radiator, one nozzle spraying the oil cooler core.
After doing all the above, my car can stay out relatively long. What I do is on the straights (when my hands aren't too busy turning or shifting), I would press the manual intercooler spray button. This will cool down the oil and water temp as you progress through the lap.
I just wish there is a low-level warning indicator for the intercooler water spray tank. Whenever I see oil temp reaches 130C and refuses to come down, I would pit in and sure enough, the tank is empty.
My mech actually warns me about this: the pump of the I/C spray is water-cooled, so it's not a good idea to press the manual spray button without water inside as there is a chance the pump will overheat.
I may upgrade to boot-mounted high capacity water tank in future.
If you have the budget, upgrade your radiator and oil cooler, I'm sure it will do wonders. GOOD LUCK!
1. Tomei oil thermostat killer. HKS apparently makes one too.
2. Ralliart water thermotstat. This IIRC reduces the 'trigger' temp to 71C (i.e. at 71C the water starts flowing to the radiator, instead of the stock temp of 80's?? Sorry if I'm wrong with the details)
3. I had my mech run a T-junction off the intercooler waterspray; he installed two nozzles spraying the radiator, one nozzle spraying the oil cooler core.
After doing all the above, my car can stay out relatively long. What I do is on the straights (when my hands aren't too busy turning or shifting), I would press the manual intercooler spray button. This will cool down the oil and water temp as you progress through the lap.
I just wish there is a low-level warning indicator for the intercooler water spray tank. Whenever I see oil temp reaches 130C and refuses to come down, I would pit in and sure enough, the tank is empty.
My mech actually warns me about this: the pump of the I/C spray is water-cooled, so it's not a good idea to press the manual spray button without water inside as there is a chance the pump will overheat.
I may upgrade to boot-mounted high capacity water tank in future.
If you have the budget, upgrade your radiator and oil cooler, I'm sure it will do wonders. GOOD LUCK!
now I have a small project this weekend...I read somewhere, you can just use cheap plastic .25 inch garden nozzles too. which nozzles did you use?
Originally Posted by mdosu
wow, a T tap for nozzles to spray on oil cooler and radiator...it's so simple and brilliant! now I have a small project this weekend...I read somewhere, you can just use cheap plastic .25 inch garden nozzles too. which nozzles did you use?
now I have a small project this weekend...I read somewhere, you can just use cheap plastic .25 inch garden nozzles too. which nozzles did you use?
Originally Posted by bdiddy
I don't want to have this conversation, because it's pointless.
Here's your link: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/bo...er-24_926.html
Here's your link: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/bo...er-24_926.html
the real question is what pressure does our coolant system run at?