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Keeping engine cool on roadcourse

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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 02:30 PM
  #46  
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Originally Posted by bdiddy
I don't want to have this conversation, because it's pointless.

Here's your link: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/bo...er-24_926.html
k, i read, and make sure i understand this right.

evo comes with a 1.1 bar cap.

a 1.1 bar rad cap effectively ='s 31 psi. 14.7 + (14.7 +1.47) = 30.87

according to your chart, 32psi boils water at 254.1 degrees.

Now tell me how antifreeze that boils at 276 (70 antifreeze/30 water), doesn't allow a higher temp.

(now i understand the whole idea that water is more effective at dissapating the heat, but we're talking pure temp here.)


Call me hardheaded, i learned about the pressure difference in boiling, however, from the looks of it, water still boils before an antifreeze/water mix.
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 04:27 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by bdiddy
If you beat the hell out of it, I'm sure your oil temp was up. How about the brakes?

true oil temp was up a lil, nothing bad. Brakes felt some fade but mainly it was a feel issue, if I slammed them to the ground they would still stop on a dime.. they just felt a little more squishy than when they're cold.
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 04:37 PM
  #48  
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From: Arklatex
Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
k, i read, and make sure i understand this right.

evo comes with a 1.1 bar cap.

a 1.1 bar rad cap effectively ='s 31 psi. 14.7 + (14.7 +1.47) = 30.87

according to your chart, 32psi boils water at 254.1 degrees.

Now tell me how antifreeze that boils at 276 (70 antifreeze/30 water), doesn't allow a higher temp.

(now i understand the whole idea that water is more effective at dissapating the heat, but we're talking pure temp here.)


Call me hardheaded, i learned about the pressure difference in boiling, however, from the looks of it, water still boils before an antifreeze/water mix.

1.1 bar is 14.7+1.47=16.17 psi
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 05:19 PM
  #49  
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Originally Posted by Emo-Evo
1.1 bar is 14.7+1.47=16.17 psi
plus exisiting atmosphere. (14.7)
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 05:35 PM
  #50  
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From: QC/Mesa, Arizona(85143)
I put beer in.........with water wetter of course.
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 09:38 PM
  #51  
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From: Scottsdale
Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
k, i read, and make sure i understand this right.

evo comes with a 1.1 bar cap.

a 1.1 bar rad cap effectively ='s 31 psi. 14.7 + (14.7 +1.47) = 30.87

according to your chart, 32psi boils water at 254.1 degrees.

Now tell me how antifreeze that boils at 276 (70 antifreeze/30 water), doesn't allow a higher temp.

(now i understand the whole idea that water is more effective at dissapating the heat, but we're talking pure temp here.)


Call me hardheaded, i learned about the pressure difference in boiling, however, from the looks of it, water still boils before an antifreeze/water mix.

You are correct. Water and anti-freeze, or water wetter, or a combo will take longer to boil than water alone. You need more than just water in there, and distilled water is better than tap water. That's a lesson for another day.
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 03:50 AM
  #52  
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Originally Posted by bdiddy
You are correct. Water and anti-freeze, or water wetter, or a combo will take longer to boil than water alone. You need more than just water in there, and distilled water is better than tap water. That's a lesson for another day.
:thumbsup: thanks.
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 05:27 AM
  #53  
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From: The 1st State
Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
plus exisiting atmosphere. (14.7)

It's a closed system
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 06:05 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by mdosu
wow, a T tap for nozzles to spray on oil cooler and radiator...it's so simple and brilliant! now I have a small project this weekend...I read somewhere, you can just use cheap plastic .25 inch garden nozzles too. which nozzles did you use?
I used original Mitsubishi nozzles, went to the dealer to get some.

Be careful about the hoses; don't unnecessarily lengthen the hoses because if they are too long, the stock pump may not have enough pressure to pump the water to all of the intended locations.

EDIT: I meant original Mitsubishi intercooler nozzles. If you use those fine mist types, you may have to uprate the water pump, which is another big job altogether, so I suggest you stick to the original ones.
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 07:35 AM
  #55  
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From: From Ohio, now in N. Virginia
Originally Posted by GDB
I used original Mitsubishi nozzles, went to the dealer to get some.

Be careful about the hoses; don't unnecessarily lengthen the hoses because if they are too long, the stock pump may not have enough pressure to pump the water to all of the intended locations.

EDIT: I meant original Mitsubishi intercooler nozzles. If you use those fine mist types, you may have to uprate the water pump, which is another big job altogether, so I suggest you stick to the original ones.
thanks for the tip

What's the size of the T you used to fit in the stock hose?
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 08:10 AM
  #56  
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Originally Posted by meanmud
It's a closed system
and it holds 1.1 bar OVER ambient. Normal airpressure is 29.8 on the barameter. That converts to 14.7 bar, or one atmosphere.

When you open your gallon of milk, does it explode in your face? No, the pressure inside closely resembles the pressure outside.

When you open your radiator after it's been running, do you get scalded by the fluid flying out? yes. It is pressurized beyond atmosphere.
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 09:21 AM
  #57  
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From: The 1st State
Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
and it holds 1.1 bar OVER ambient. Normal airpressure is 29.8 on the barameter. That converts to 14.7 bar, or one atmosphere.

When you open your gallon of milk, does it explode in your face? No, the pressure inside closely resembles the pressure outside.

When you open your radiator after it's been running, do you get scalded by the fluid flying out? yes. It is pressurized beyond atmosphere.

Just a question

Also - isn't 14.7psi = 1 bar?

how much pressure is in your gallon of milk?

That's why it explodes - P is proportional to T
Pressures are not additive in a closed system.
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 09:33 AM
  #58  
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Originally Posted by meanmud
Just a question

Also - isn't 14.7psi = 1 bar?

how much pressure is in your gallon of milk?

That's why it explodes - P is proportional to T
Pressures are not additive in a closed system.
what are you talking about? when the car is off, there is 14.7 psi of pressure, inside, and outside, it's the atmosphere, and yes, thats 1 bar.

when the car is on there is up to 1.1 bar pressure higher inside the tank than outside.

therefore, the final pressure on the fluid inside is 2.1 bar. the 1.1 is above ambient, which is 1.
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 09:40 AM
  #59  
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Do I need to remember all of this in turn 8 at Willow Springs to keep my car cool?

I usually have my hands full and I'm not sure I want to add this to the equation.

What was this thread about?

Who started this anyway???
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 10:02 AM
  #60  
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Originally Posted by bdiddy
Do I need to remember all of this in turn 8 at Willow Springs to keep my car cool?

I usually have my hands full and I'm not sure I want to add this to the equation.

What was this thread about?

Who started this anyway???
haha, ok, ok.
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