How much whp does anyone think i have with these mods. I have a base flash but i really need another one and I have a s-afc2 but i don't use it hardly at all. as a matter of fact its not even hooked up.

-3" tbe megan exhaust
-hallman boost controller set at 21 psi
-k & N intake
-hyper grounding kit
-02 housing
-255lb fuel pump

 

bump...too early?

 

65000!

 

Seriously, each evo is different. One may respond to mods better than another. Someone can only give you a very broad estimate that could be completely off. The only way to really tell is to take your car to a dyno.

 

yeah i know. i'm just trying to get a base line dyno from some people. i need to get a re-tune anyway

 

Maybe 270? If you have an S-AFC, why aren't you using it? You have the opportunity for a great setup (base flash + S-AFC for fine tuning), but you're not taking advantage of it. Paying for ANOTHER flash when you already have an S-AFC is a big waste unless you just don't have any desire to do your own tuning. If you were to hook up and utilize your S-AFC, you'd gain more power and be able to keep your tune optimized at all times, regardless of the conditions (temp/humidity/octane/boost).

 

the problem with the safc2 is that i have all the wires hooked up correctly and i didn't use the blue wire method. I can drive regulary with any settings at all and the car is still jumpy and up top the car feels almost dead. no pull what so ever. I really need a wide band to tune it but i think my car doesn't like me to tune any how. I am a little lost with that thing. There isn't anyone around to help me tune it and Im always working so i can never make it to a tuning session like Al's or something. Arrrrhh

 

Blue wire method? That's not even recommended to begin with, so it's not holding you back. You should not have bought nor installed an S-AFC without a logging device or tuning knowledge. You should immediately return all settings to 0 at low- and hi-throttle, then go make sure that all of the pre-settings are proper:

Karman
4 cyl
Arrow pointing Northeast (up and to the right)
Throttle points - Hi (65%) Low (25-35%)

Then, don't change the low or hi throttle fuel settings until you have a logging device. If your car feels dead up top, then you are probably knocking heavily, which is causing timing to be pulled, which results in a significant loss in power. I would only expect this to happen if you have removed a lot of fuel (negative settings). I don't know what would cause the car to be jumpy, though....

 

Here's an idea...go dyno your car...that's the ONLY way to really know

 

well what type of dyno will you be using, do you have a test pipe, and what octane fuel do you have? I have a 3 inch tbe with test pipe, 93 octane and a custom dynoflash and i put down 291 awhp and 295 awtq so thats something to shoot for just dont be dissappointed if the #'s are lower as fuel, weather, and differences in each individual car also play a big role.

 

From the sounds of it, he probably won't be duplicating those numbers at this point, so hopefully he can get his stuff straightened out in order to remedy this...

 

I have 93 octane. And I have keep all settings at default and it seems to still pull timing. I used to mess with a 2nd gen eclipse gs-t that had a safc2 and my buddy and never once had a problem. i wish he didn't sell his car with the wideband though.

 

If you aren't even using the s-afc, then it has nothing to do with any timing being pulled. That would be caused by other factors (boosting too high, hot weather, etc.). The S-AFC does nothing if you have all the settings at 0. That is, unless you set it up the wrong way initially and are causing all sorts of trouble thusly...