Innovation and EVOlution in the aftermarket - the NEW best MBC for EVOS!
Originally Posted by coastal96
Laf -- I had the same issue when I first installed it and was trying to dial it in. I would turn it a few clicks at a time and it kept hitting only about 15 or 16 psi. Then I finally went under the hood and cranked the hell out of it . . . . 20 - 25 clicks maybe . . . to get upto 20 psi. My brother could see me from the passenger seat and he said it looked like I was trying to twist off a bottle cap 

For those who have the unit in, how is it working out for you? If you had a MBC prior is this holding boost better/worse?
For anyone concerned over the best way to install a boost controller......
........Al/Dynoflash and I spent about an hour on the phone yesterday and part of our conversation was concerning the best way to setup/install a manual boost controller of the lock-ball and spring type. (Like our new Unos.)
Here are the results:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Turbo Outlet
This is the standard method of connecting a boost controller and arguably the safest.
If there were no boost controller at all being used in the system, this is the method REQUIRED to be used.
Without a boost controller, you ONLY want positive pressure acting on the diaphragm of the actuator. NOT pressure and vaccum as would occur when connecting the source to the inake manifold. The vacuum can pull on the diaphragm of the actuator pulling it into the unit's vacuum nipple and potentially tear it.
When a boost controller is used, this is not an issue as the vacuum is pulling on the ball of the boost controller instead of the diaphragm of the actuator.
(this is only the case for a lock-ball and spring type manual controller)
This also allows the boost controller and blow-off/bypass valve to have their own references improving the response of each individually.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Intake Manifold/Sharing with BOV
Sourcing the reference from here MAY provide a very slight improvement in repeatability of boost, however, this is a less safe method of installing the boost controller and actually leads to another issue that can hinder the performance of the car.
First and foremost, the Bypass/Blow-off valve must always have a intake manifold reference. NEVER reference the valve from the turbo outlet. Please don't confuse that with what I am refering to here.
If the boost controller and BOV share that same reference from the intake manifold, they are essentially sharing the same volume of air (pressure/vacuum).
When the boost controller (lock-ball-and-spring type) actuates, meaning when the spring allows the ball to come off of it's seat and send the pressure signal to the actuator, some of the "shared" pressure helping to hold the bypass/blow-off valve closed under boost is now momentarily diverted to the wastegate actuator potentially causing a "flutter" in the seal of the bypass valve and a slight loss of boost pressure altogether within the system.
If the boost controller and BOV each have their own individual reference from the intake manifold, the possibility for this flutter is greatly decreased, however, it may still exsist to some extent because both references are sharing the intake manifold pressure.
Al and I have seen this issue on mutiple vehicles and sourcing the boost controller directly from the turbo eliminates it completely.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
In short, the best method will be connecting the boost controller directly off of the turbo outlet or anywhere on the intercooler piping BEFORE the throttle body.
Boost Controller
Positive Pressure Only
(Turbo Outlet)
Bypass/Blow-Off Valve
Positive Pressure AND Vacuum
(Intake Manifold)
........Al/Dynoflash and I spent about an hour on the phone yesterday and part of our conversation was concerning the best way to setup/install a manual boost controller of the lock-ball and spring type. (Like our new Unos.)
Here are the results:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Turbo Outlet
This is the standard method of connecting a boost controller and arguably the safest.
If there were no boost controller at all being used in the system, this is the method REQUIRED to be used.
Without a boost controller, you ONLY want positive pressure acting on the diaphragm of the actuator. NOT pressure and vaccum as would occur when connecting the source to the inake manifold. The vacuum can pull on the diaphragm of the actuator pulling it into the unit's vacuum nipple and potentially tear it.
When a boost controller is used, this is not an issue as the vacuum is pulling on the ball of the boost controller instead of the diaphragm of the actuator.
(this is only the case for a lock-ball and spring type manual controller)
This also allows the boost controller and blow-off/bypass valve to have their own references improving the response of each individually.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Intake Manifold/Sharing with BOV
Sourcing the reference from here MAY provide a very slight improvement in repeatability of boost, however, this is a less safe method of installing the boost controller and actually leads to another issue that can hinder the performance of the car.
First and foremost, the Bypass/Blow-off valve must always have a intake manifold reference. NEVER reference the valve from the turbo outlet. Please don't confuse that with what I am refering to here.
If the boost controller and BOV share that same reference from the intake manifold, they are essentially sharing the same volume of air (pressure/vacuum).
When the boost controller (lock-ball-and-spring type) actuates, meaning when the spring allows the ball to come off of it's seat and send the pressure signal to the actuator, some of the "shared" pressure helping to hold the bypass/blow-off valve closed under boost is now momentarily diverted to the wastegate actuator potentially causing a "flutter" in the seal of the bypass valve and a slight loss of boost pressure altogether within the system.
If the boost controller and BOV each have their own individual reference from the intake manifold, the possibility for this flutter is greatly decreased, however, it may still exsist to some extent because both references are sharing the intake manifold pressure.
Al and I have seen this issue on mutiple vehicles and sourcing the boost controller directly from the turbo eliminates it completely.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
In short, the best method will be connecting the boost controller directly off of the turbo outlet or anywhere on the intercooler piping BEFORE the throttle body.
Boost Controller
Positive Pressure Only
(Turbo Outlet)
Bypass/Blow-Off Valve
Positive Pressure AND Vacuum
(Intake Manifold)
Originally Posted by Mike@Forge
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Intake Manifold/Sharing with BOV
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
In short, the best method will be connecting the boost controller directly off of the turbo outlet or anywhere on the intercooler piping BEFORE the throttle body.
Boost Controller
Positive Pressure Only
(Turbo Outlet)
Bypass/Blow-Off Valve
Positive Pressure AND Vacuum
(Intake Manifold)
Intake Manifold/Sharing with BOV
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
In short, the best method will be connecting the boost controller directly off of the turbo outlet or anywhere on the intercooler piping BEFORE the throttle body.
Boost Controller
Positive Pressure Only
(Turbo Outlet)
Bypass/Blow-Off Valve
Positive Pressure AND Vacuum
(Intake Manifold)
Thanks
Last edited by GOKOU; Sep 14, 2005 at 05:58 AM.
I have mine mounted in the BOV line and am experiancing some flutter/taper, next experiment is going to be to try the turbo outlet again and see how things change. I will update here when it is done, with no other changes besides changing locations.
Originally Posted by GOKOU
Where do I tap if I have a BR lower pipe? I like to try this out and see if it makes any difference. I'm not that a lot of people are running the same as I am where the BC and bov vaccum is after the TB.
Obviously the shortest reference to connect to the actuator would be from right in front of the turbo.
Originally Posted by MM Racing
I have mine mounted in the BOV line and am experiancing some flutter/taper, next experiment is going to be to try the turbo outlet again and see how things change. I will update here when it is done, with no other changes besides changing locations.
Cool! Let me know because I will need to drill a hole in the intercooler pipe and don't want to do it if the results are nearly the same.
I THINK I might have more Unos' coming in on a shipment on Friday, but I won't know for sure until it arrives and I unpack it.
Once they're here, I imagine they will sell quickly so get on waiting lists with Al, Buschur, and GSC as soon as you can.
Once they're here, I imagine they will sell quickly so get on waiting lists with Al, Buschur, and GSC as soon as you can.


