I have not found good results on the 3076

IMHO its almost as laggy as the Gt35R when the 35 is properly set up and its about 120 whp less power

For someone going to bolt on a whole aftermarket turbo set up my ONLY choice would be the Gt35

The WR or 20G make more sense for those seeking mild power gains with stock like spool up

The WR is a bit faster spooling and not as powerful as the 20G (but more powerful than stock) without any surge

The 20g spools a bit later but makes a lot more power with mild surge

 

well now i guess its between the 35r and 20g. considering that people up here with the 3076r are getting full boost at 4500rpm in 3rd gear, would it still be worth getting the 35r? the results i have seen on this forum by 35r owners is that the 35r gets full boost 700-800rpm slower than the 3076.

 

I see people getting 20+PSI with a 3076R under 4000, that is streetable? I believe the 35R hits the same at 4400-4600.


What are your feelings on the 3071?

 

With a 20g what kind of tuning/standalone would be required to keep the turbo and the car efficient? as well as eliminate the MAF?

 

x2

 

Alright guys, I had a chance to mess w/ my setup a little more to alleviate this surge I was experiencing. I had a feeling my BOV was set too tight, so I loosened it up a hair. I also loosened the wastegate actuator a little bit also. This remedied almost all of the surge I was getting before. I have another friend who installed this turbo and he said he is not getting any surge whatsoever, so I would not let it worry people who are on the fence about this turbo. I will be buying a high boost wastegate actuator in the coming days to see if I can hold more boost up top. I spoke w/ Dave Buschur who is running the highboost actuator and he is holding 26psi all the way to redline.

 

I think i would still rather spend a little extra cash for the 35R. I know i'd get tired of the 20G soon after having it.

 

good work

 

I can personally attest that a GT35R w/ a .63 A/R turbine housing on a 2.3 stroker will surge like an SOB under part throttle conditions. It leastmy set up is. It's pretty much undrivable on a road course. It can probably be tuned around by creating a boost profile to avoid the surge areas of the compressor map. Perhaps a larger turbine housing would help too. Unfortunately I don't have the time resources to do the R & D. I'll wait it out until I can find someone that has hands on experience with building a combination that works well for road course usage.

 

This actually came up in one of the other 20G threads that Dave was posting about.. Most of the surge Dave's car was experiencing was likely due to the Tial BOV with the very heavy spring in it. I found on most cars that surge can be reduced dramatically if you adjust the DV/BOV to only require enough spring pressure to stay closed firmly.. You only need the spring pressure to create a differential between the pressure of the diaphragm holding it closed, and the force against the valve trying to open it. At part throttle it allows excess boost to overcome the spring pressure easier and reduces surging dramatically. If your valve flutters at part throttle, then the spring pressure may be slightly too high..

[Offtopic Thought] Its one of the huge flaws in the HKS SSQV, although it vents ok, and holds boost at WOT like a ****, part throttle "Aggressive" driving would result in the RPM's rising between shifts, if the boost pressure in the upper intercooler pipe was any higher, it would cause the turbo to surge.. In this specific case, the valve is held closed under pressure, and a small valve is drawn open under vaccum to the diaphragm, so if there's no vacuum, the valve doesn't open all that easily (it does open though since there is some pressure against the inner diaphragm) [/Offtopic Thought]

Sorry for the offtopic reply, but this is relevent to the discussion since any turbo with a mis-adjusted BOV can surge too.. The adjustment required for the BOV/DV is also about your driving style.

 

this is why everyone should run a pneumatically assisted 1g bov that is only slightly crushed. the 1g only holds a measly 13-15psi outta the box and the dejontools pneumatic assist kit (aka leak stop kit) switches the pressures at 15psi (hence the need to crush ever so slightly). with the mod done you will be ramming air into the upper side of the diaphram (keepin the valve closed) at boost levels higher than 15psi and at anything lower than that you're resorting to spring tension to hold the valve closed which should give you great response.

 

Yep, very good point, I completely forgot about that setup, my original 1G valve on my car had that setup.

 

I'm pretty cerain that I have experienced surge on my stock turbo. Bucking can happen if throttle modulation is particularly irregular. i.e. I accelerate from low rpm in 2nd or 3rd, lift off the gas and then give it gass again, the car will buck. it can be a pain as irregular street conditions can exaserbate the situation.

 

happens in the canyons for me... which is pretty annoying cuz then you gotta break the pace.

anyway... why did you let the good ol 1g go mj?

 

How would this turbo compair to the TME 6.5?