I was looking at getting an ARP stud settup and was wondering if the only studs they have are the head studs and the main studs ?? I would like to upgrade the harware so i don't blow anything but was wondering if that is all they sold ?

 

I would imagine that if you paid ARP enough, they would supply you with valve cover studs too. Seriously, they sell the pieces that tend to break/stretch from the factory under heavy loads. The head bolts are the most obvious, and the main studs are just insurance. Unless you're going to be running 30+ psi, I wouldn't worry about more than those two. Studs won't keep your motor from knocking, or your rods from bending.

Happy Evo-ing!

 

like Pd1 said.....OEM studs/bolts will hold enough power for the average JOE....unless you're happy boostn all the time, then I would definately recommend upgrading to ARP...

 

The stock head gasket is practically glued on to both the head and block. Odds are if you have enough pressure to break that bond and stretch the factory head bolts then ARPs probably wont save you either. This version of the 4G63 is much stronger than the DSM version. Even the DSM HG and HBs were good for minimum of 25PSI. Knock is the enemy not the head bolts. If you have the standard mods....I/H/E/C.....you have no need for ARP hardware.

 

You probally only need the headstuds, mainstuds are for the bottom end correct?

 

If you're in there doing cams or similar, why not upgrade to ARP headstuds? A little insurance for you as you up the boost....which you know you're gonna do if you haven't already.

 

Because they aren't needed until you hit 30PSI. Can you think of anyone that popped a head gasket because of stretched bolts vice heavy knock?

You are right they are cheap.....but I think its more of a rip off than insurance.

BTW the propper way to do studs is to remove the head and replace the gasket. Most shops are removing one stud at a time and replacing them with ARPs. Not the best approach but apparently it works.

 

Yes. The mains are on the bottom end.

I wouldn't chance my engine pushing coolant if I could avoid it for $95 (cost of ARP head studs). As others have said, it's cheap insurance.

 

you dont have to remove the head to do the studs.. pretty much all vendors dont, i havent, and many others havent either.. its a waste of time.. its cheap ins. in case something happens...

 

I'm about to install cam along with ARP studs but after reading some members who have done the ARP studs and are now experiencing leaking oil makes me wonder if this little insurance is worth the potential problem.

 

Leaking oil? I assume that refers to leaking oil *outside* the engine...and I'm not sure how this is possible. All the head studs go inside the valve cover, and simply attach the cylinder head to the block...all of which sees oil. Can you please elaborate on this concern? Are people just not resealing the valve cover properly?

 

Here is one of many other discussions regarding oil leak problem after a HS install. I'm not saying this is the norm but knowing the potential problem it could cause and others have experienced, it doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy about doing the install.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ht=arp+install

 

When I had my cams installed I also had the ARP headstuds installed. AMS did the work and Ive had zero problems with oil leaking so I would imagine if your not doing the work yourself, have someone do it who has installed head studs many times. Also, its been said many times but for 95 bucks its cheap insurance.

 

"What I found was the valve cover gasket was torn in multiple places and this may explain why I had oil leaking."

This is what I suspected. If you can't properly remove and reinstall your valve cover where it doesn't leak oil afterward, you have no business working on your own car. If this scares you out of doing the ARP head studs, then find a trust worthy tech to help you. I would guess that this valve cover leak is what 95%+ are referring to when they complain of an oil leak after a head stud install. While it is possible to have a head gasket leak following the 1-by-1 stud install, it is quite unlikely. If you'd rather be as safe as possible, remove the head when you install the studs. If you'd like to be safer than that, set your MBC at 18psi and stop modding your Evo.

 

You have fun then, i'll pay 90 bucks and sleep better at night.