Is my car pulling timing?
Is my car pulling timing?
I just installed buschers race FMIC and LICP, and my car is acting really wierd. On WOT there doesnt seem to be an issue, instead problems occur with mild acceleration. When I slowly let the car spool up it feels like its causing throughout the higher RPMs. Whats causes a car to pull timing?
...FWIW I just got my car pack from the dealer, as they installed a new T-Case, is there any chance they could have reflashed my ECU?
...FWIW I just got my car pack from the dealer, as they installed a new T-Case, is there any chance they could have reflashed my ECU?
Originally Posted by Sap12687
I just installed buschers race FMIC and LICP, and my car is acting really wierd. On WOT there doesnt seem to be an issue, instead problems occur with mild acceleration. When I slowly let the car spool up it feels like its causing throughout the higher RPMs. Whats causes a car to pull timing?
...FWIW I just got my car pack from the dealer, as they installed a new T-Case, is there any chance they could have reflashed my ECU?
...FWIW I just got my car pack from the dealer, as they installed a new T-Case, is there any chance they could have reflashed my ECU?
If your ECU detects any knock it will start to pull timing. Many things can cause this so let us know what is exactly happening. Good luck.
It feels like im hitting fuel cut but for only a second and then the car heads back up powerband. This happens about 2-3 times a pull. I guess you could call it a really bad stutter. I wish i could explain it a little better so if you have any questions please let me know.
1. Was the problem happening before you brought the car to the dealership?
2. Was the problem happening before you added the Race FMIC/pipe?
I was doing an experiment once and I had a Al flash my ECU once with a different Buschur stage flash to see if it would work with what I had and I immediately noticed that my car was stuttering under moderate to WOT when I got into boost.
So I guess what I am getting at is the dealer could have re-flashed your ECU, although I don't understand why they would for a transfer case overhaul unless they knew you didn't have the update P0300 code and decided as a courtesy to do the reflash.
Just a couple of thoughts...
2. Was the problem happening before you added the Race FMIC/pipe?
I was doing an experiment once and I had a Al flash my ECU once with a different Buschur stage flash to see if it would work with what I had and I immediately noticed that my car was stuttering under moderate to WOT when I got into boost.
So I guess what I am getting at is the dealer could have re-flashed your ECU, although I don't understand why they would for a transfer case overhaul unless they knew you didn't have the update P0300 code and decided as a courtesy to do the reflash.
Just a couple of thoughts...
The problem was not there with the stock FMIC. Logically,a good way to tell if they flashed it would be to see where rev limiter is, i just havent had a chance to see. The Service engine light is also on at this time because i unplugged the MAF to get to some intercooler piping, could it be that light?
I cannot begin to tell you how frusterated i would be if they refalshed my car...
I cannot begin to tell you how frusterated i would be if they refalshed my car...
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I have done that and it throws the ECU in limp mode, or you can disconnect the negative terminal, step on the brake pedal for 10 seconds to dump any remaining current in the electrical system and then re-connect the neg. terminal on the battery.
Anytime you get a CEL you should immediately read/reset it and determine if it's truly and issue or just a fluke as in this case when you disconnected the MAF.
Your post should have included that information, it would have saved you alot of time.
Your post should have included that information, it would have saved you alot of time.
Originally Posted by 4 Wheel Slide
Whats causes a car to pull timing?
Can some1 explain what "pull timing" is....this is a new term for me?
Thanks
Can some1 explain what "pull timing" is....this is a new term for me?
Thanks
I am not trying to act like an expert here, but I'll try to explain it as best as I can. As revs get higher, the ECU needs to fire the ignition coils earlier. You want to ignite the air-fuel mixture at the right time, but not prematurely (i.e. when the piston is in the compression part of the cycle... going up). Firing early causes knocking. So if your engine is knocking, the ECU "pulls timing" so that the mixture is ignited at a safer (later) time.
If I am misexplaining anything, please chime in.
To answer someone else's question, if you want to tell if the engine is pulling timing, you'll need to get an OBD2 scanner. I use the Vehicle Interface Adapter from B&B Electronics, but it doesn't come with software -- you have to write your own. The Evo supports the PID for timing.
Last edited by Matz; Jan 6, 2006 at 11:55 PM.
Originally Posted by markeddy
You need to read the code and reset it with an OBDII scanner right away. Unplugging the MAF midstream like that causes all sorts of issues!



