Do Luck Replica Lip Installation Question
Do Luck Replica Lip Installation Question
I did some searching, looking for any how-tos on installing the Do Luck CF front lip, but only found one on how to install the authentic lip, which I believe has the holes in the tabs already drilled. I purchased a replica lip from JDPEngineering, and their lip didn't come with the holes pre-drilled.
It's easy for me to see the holes that will be attached to the bumper, I know I can easily drill those out, but my main concern are the tabs at the base of the lip, which attach to the splash guard underneath I believe.
Can anyone tell me the size of the holes needed to be drilled for these tabs? I'm planning on installing the front lip tomorrow, provided that the weather is decent. Just want to prepare myself accordingly for the project. Thanks in advance for your help!
It's easy for me to see the holes that will be attached to the bumper, I know I can easily drill those out, but my main concern are the tabs at the base of the lip, which attach to the splash guard underneath I believe.
Can anyone tell me the size of the holes needed to be drilled for these tabs? I'm planning on installing the front lip tomorrow, provided that the weather is decent. Just want to prepare myself accordingly for the project. Thanks in advance for your help!
Your problem is the same reason I sent my replica do luck lip back to StreetConcepts.com There are no pre-drilled holes. Myself I wouldn't attempt to drill holes in an item that I just paid $400.00. If I mess up then I'm screwed. I sent mine back and bought the authentic do luck lip.
Hopefully someone will chime in here and tell you what bit to use if you decide to drill on your own.
Hopefully someone will chime in here and tell you what bit to use if you decide to drill on your own.
The JDP Do Luck Replica Lip is a very straight forward install. Total install is about 1.5-3 hours.
First, I jacked the car up and put it on jackstands, rhino ramps, or bricks if you have to compromise.
Next, remove the entire undertray. All the fastners must be removed, and you can simply unscrew them if you only apply very-light to no pressure.
After you remove the undertray, you will find that the stock lip is fastened to the bumper through about 15 brass screws. You will have to lay under the front bumper - looking forward to locate the brass screws, as they are tucked under the bottom of the bumper. After you remove the brass screws, the stock lip simply comes off.
Drilling out the lip is actually very easy! I have a dremel tool at home, so I pre-drilled all my holes with a cone-style bit, then simply drilled them out from there to the correct size. You can also use small bits to pre-drill your holes until you get to the correct size. Keep in mind you will re-use all the stock hardware and fasteners. Also, you are not drilling into carbon fiber, you are only drilling into the fiberglass sections of the mold.
The fasteners that hold the undertray to the lip tabs are 8mm, thus you need to drill the holes on the tabs out to 8mm. Do not make these holes larger then 8mm, as your stock screw fasteners will not work
Look closely at the tabs on the lip, and you will see small recessed circles about 6-8mm in size, and simply use those recessed holes as your center marker for drilling.
The same goes for the holes on the upper portion of the lip. You will see small recessed circles were the holes need to be. Simply pre-drill those holes with a tiny bit, and then drill them out to 3mm.
Once you fit the lip up to your bumper, you will notice that both the edges fit very tightly around the corner of your bumper - towards the wheel well. This is a good thing. Starting in the middle front of the lip, I start by securing one brass screw into the 3mm holes on the top of the lip. Slowly work your way out towards each edge of the lip, securing all the screws loosely. once you get all the screws in place, then go back to secure them tightly. You might have to re-drill one or two of the holes in the upper lip from under your car depending on the exact fitment. It is very easy to do if necessary, and you do not need to remove the lip to re-drill the holes.
It's all gravy from there. Simply put the splash guard back on using all the stock screw fasteners, and the holes in the undertray should match up perfectly to the holes in the lip tabs as long as you follow the recessed holes as the center of your drilling point on the lip tabs.
First, I jacked the car up and put it on jackstands, rhino ramps, or bricks if you have to compromise.
Next, remove the entire undertray. All the fastners must be removed, and you can simply unscrew them if you only apply very-light to no pressure.
After you remove the undertray, you will find that the stock lip is fastened to the bumper through about 15 brass screws. You will have to lay under the front bumper - looking forward to locate the brass screws, as they are tucked under the bottom of the bumper. After you remove the brass screws, the stock lip simply comes off.
Drilling out the lip is actually very easy! I have a dremel tool at home, so I pre-drilled all my holes with a cone-style bit, then simply drilled them out from there to the correct size. You can also use small bits to pre-drill your holes until you get to the correct size. Keep in mind you will re-use all the stock hardware and fasteners. Also, you are not drilling into carbon fiber, you are only drilling into the fiberglass sections of the mold.
The fasteners that hold the undertray to the lip tabs are 8mm, thus you need to drill the holes on the tabs out to 8mm. Do not make these holes larger then 8mm, as your stock screw fasteners will not work
Look closely at the tabs on the lip, and you will see small recessed circles about 6-8mm in size, and simply use those recessed holes as your center marker for drilling.
The same goes for the holes on the upper portion of the lip. You will see small recessed circles were the holes need to be. Simply pre-drill those holes with a tiny bit, and then drill them out to 3mm.
Once you fit the lip up to your bumper, you will notice that both the edges fit very tightly around the corner of your bumper - towards the wheel well. This is a good thing. Starting in the middle front of the lip, I start by securing one brass screw into the 3mm holes on the top of the lip. Slowly work your way out towards each edge of the lip, securing all the screws loosely. once you get all the screws in place, then go back to secure them tightly. You might have to re-drill one or two of the holes in the upper lip from under your car depending on the exact fitment. It is very easy to do if necessary, and you do not need to remove the lip to re-drill the holes.
It's all gravy from there. Simply put the splash guard back on using all the stock screw fasteners, and the holes in the undertray should match up perfectly to the holes in the lip tabs as long as you follow the recessed holes as the center of your drilling point on the lip tabs.
Success!!!
Thank you Lowness and all who replied to this thread! I really appreciate the help!! I was successful in installing the lip, and in drilling holes. I hope this thread will be a good reference to others who will install the JDP lip.
so where the instructions completely accurate?Post up some pics......close up pics I wanna see the quality and fitment of this Do-Luck replica. How would you rate the fitment and quality?
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Originally Posted by EvoBig16G
so where the instructions completely accurate?Post up some pics......close up pics I wanna see the quality and fitment of this Do-Luck replica. How would you rate the fitment and quality?
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Oct 15, 2010 10:22 AM





