Hello all. Purchased an EVO this weekend and have a few questions that you guys could probably help out with. I had originally planed to purchase and modify a WRX, but one ride in an EVO and I knew I'd never recreate that sharp handling on my own Because of that, and the newness of the EVO, I'm a bit behind on my EVO knowledge. I have done searches here and absorbed as much as I can.

Question 1 - idle. The idle is pretty lumpy. I know the cams are probably fairly radical and have lots of overlap. I'd just like to confirm that it is a normal characteristic. One of the two EVOs at the dealership i purchased mine from had O2 sensor issues (no activity) so I might just be overly paranoid.

Question 2 - oil. Noticed that their was some contradictions in oil grade and change intervals. The service manual suggests 1st change at 3750, but I intend to do a change at 1500 with 10-40 or 10-60 or...?

I'm sure I'll come up with more as time goes on. Here is hoping you guys are patient.

P.S. My wife drove the car for more than 40 miles this weekend and we didn't even flip over. Who says wives and evos don't mix

 

congrats on the car.... i have no clue about the oil change situation but the IDLE shouldnt be "lumpy"... i think ur cars running fine ur jus being a lil paranoid due to the 02 sensor problem... just give it a little bit more time and see how it goes... for oil changes i would say jus change it every 5000 miles with the preferred syntethic oils... and also at ur first 1200 mile point...

 

congrat on your new evo

^_^

 

Pretty typical of all 4g63 engines. You probably hear a lot of cam noise and it idles right below 1000rpm (900?). That's how it's set from the factory. Nothing to worry about.

Though, I'm not sure what you're talking about when it comes to an o2 sensor problem.

Anything before 3750 is recommended. They say you can get away with oil changes every 5000 miles, but I don't recommend it at all. Also, use SYNTHETIC OIL! Don't just use normal oil. It's filled from the factory with Mobil 1 10w30 and that's what they recommend. I suggest you stay with that.

Good luck on the Evo!

 

Not to scare you USDM Evo owners but there was a known problem with the O2 sensors from Evo 4 to Evo 7.

 

Lumpy? How many miles does it have? It's not like your C32 so the tolerence in your engine is not as tight so you'll have to break it in.

I changed my oil at 1k "under 5 grand", Ran it hard after that and then change it at 2.5K with the 10-30 mobile 1 recommended for the engine.

I use what the manufacture recommends. What is strange is that people used 5-30 on the New M3 when first released and that had destroy the engine so go figure THey did a good job covering it up but we still find out

You made the right choice choosing the evo

 

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll go into more detail about the O2 sensor issue:

I test drove an EVO w/sun roof that had been preped but then decided to buy the EVO on the showroom floor that didn't have the sun roof (only difference, equipment, paint etc same).

When I took the showroom car off the lot after the sale was complete, the check engine light came on a few blocks later I turned around and went back to the dealer. I told them to pull the code and if it was evaporative systems (gas cap code) we were cool, otherwise we had problems.

I hung out w/the mechanic while he pulled the code and it was a Front O2 Inactive code. Basically the front O2 voltage was a constant 0.0V. First we tried pulling the cover off the valve cover and making sure the O2 wire connection was good. Thought that with the hood open on the showroom floor someone might have tugged at it etc. Made no difference, so they were going to swap the O2 in the other car, but the manifold was HOT and it was already after quitting time. Long story short, I wound up taking the sun roof car (that I had already driven around on a test drive; only person to drive the car) home for the same MSRP deal I had on the non sun roof car

Any way, after that I'm a little gun shy. The idle seemed well within my expectations and is smoothing out with more miles, but I figured I'd ping you folks all the same.

 

Lou Zer,
My idle seems rough or lumpy as well. It was like that brand new and it's like that now with 580 miles. Sometimes it seems worse then usual and some times I don't notice it at all. I can even see the steering wheel shaking during idle.

 

Good description mayhem. That's pretty much it on mine too. With the AC it is the worst (makes sense). Long as it is "normal" I'm fine with it. More race car ambiance to go with the clutch spring noise and center diff noise

 

Idle problem is pretty common on the 4G63. Wait until you put HKS272s in it

Oil: Only SYNTHETIC!!! 10-20 or 10-40. Mobil 1 is OK, but they had some issues taht is not a true synthetic. If you want to run teh BEST : AMSOIL or ROYAL Purple. But they are like $8/quart. ALso, on a turbo car, the fresher and cleaner teh oil, teh better for teh turbo. SO you need more frequent oil changes. I replace my oils on the 300zx and teh Supra every 1500 miles. These Greddy T88s and HKS 2835s are EXPENSIVE. Regular oil change is the best preventative maintenanve you can do to a turbo engine.